M1 AFE 0w-30. Is it all that?

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" Mobil 1 0W-30 is recommended by ExxonMobil for SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 applications" Seems like a broad statement to say the least. I've read their quality, builder approval and meets or exceeds stuff. https://www.mobil.com/english-us/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/glxxmobil-1-0w30 But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net? Not trying to bash them is I don't know jack actually. Just seems their statements are a bit far reaching?
 

gathermewool

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To keep things simple, all of your quoted Mobil oils will be at approximately the same viscosity while the engine is warmed up. Might I suggest you do some more reading on the subject to allay your concerns, which have not been listed...
 
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It's a perfectly fine substitute for ILSAC 5w30 and 10w30 applications if that's what you are asking.
 
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As a general rule, yes the statement has some value. However, there clearly are engines that will need a more robust oil. A great example would be a hard working, air cooled engine in a hot climate. The 0W-30 may not be up to the task. 0W-30 has an HTHS (viscosity at 150c) of 3.0. M1 10W-30 High Mileage has an HTHS of 3.5 and Most straight viscosity 30 oils (think old school) have an HTHS of 3.5 to 3.8. While Mobil does not publish ingredients, it's good to note that most 0W-whatever oils contain significant additives such as pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. This means these oils MAY over time, shear more readily in some applications. I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.
 
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noclutch

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Gathermewool- Thanks and yes I'm reading lots here and on corperate websites. 👍🏻 But I am a relative newb. The link above only references and pertains to AFE 0w-30, none others quoted. Good stuff cujet thank you too 👍🏻
 
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Originally Posted by Cujet
As a general rule, yes the statement has some value. However, there clearly are engines that will need a more robust oil. A great example would be a hard working, air cooled engine in a hot climate. The 0W-30 may not be up to the task. 0W-30 has an HTHS (viscosity at 150c) of 3.0. M1 10W-30 High Mileage has an HTHS of 3.5 and Most straight viscosity 30 oils (think old school) have an HTHS of 3.5 to 3.8. While Mobil does not publish ingredients, it's good to note that most 0W-whatever oils contain significant additives such as pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. This means these oils MAY over time, shear more readily in some applications. I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.
approved
 
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I have never used M1 0-30 but I have put some 500K on their 0-20 line in Fords with great results.
 
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Originally Posted by noclutch
" Mobil 1 0W-30 is recommended by ExxonMobil for SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 applications" But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net?
YES, it is all that. Sort of ... The 0W designation is a winter rating, earned by an oil NOT exceeding maximum viscosity limits at standardized temperatures. For an 0W oil, these temps are - 35 *c ( - 31* F) and - 40 *c ( -40*F) as in EXTREME COLD temps. So the oil works well when cold starting in extreme winter temps. The " 30 " is the hot ( 100*C ... 212*F ) grade. This oil has a hot viscosity of 10.9 cSt, between the 30 grade range of 9.3 and 12.4 cSt at 100*C. So, YES, this oil is " all of that ... " . It works very well at extreme cold temps, AND falls into the 30 grade hot viscosity range. So what's not to like ? Well, getting that 0W rating is difficult. No conventional oil can do it. And even full synthetics need some help, in the form of a thinner base oil, or more expensive base oils, and MORE pour point depressants and viscosity index improvers. These additives can break down under use, causing the oil to shear down and get thinner with use, and possibly leave deposits in the engine. So, if you don't NEED the extreme cold temperature performance, using a 5w or 10w oil might be a better choice, as the oil will tend to be more stable in use, starting off with a thicker base oil and using less additives. That being said, many of the 0W oils are very well built, using more of the more expensive base oils and higher quality additive packages and VII groups. Mobil 1 0W40, for example, meets some of the toughest industry standards, including Mercedes MB 229.5 and Porsche A40.
 
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Originally Posted by noclutch
But is it all that? Or are they just casting a broad marketing net?
It's fair to assume that one ILSAC 30 is interchangeable with another, climate permitting. I used 5w-30 energy conserving oils where 10w-30 energy conserving was originally specified all along, given my climate. Had said vehicles been running synthetics (they weren't) and I were running Mobil 1 and M1 0w-30 were available (it wasn't) I likely would have used it. M1 0w-30 isn't a replacement for a 10w-30 HDEO, for certain, but as a broad rule, where one ILSAC 30 is specified, the 0w-30 ILSAC will work. The HTHS of the ILSAC lubes will be much the same. That of a monograde or an HDEO will be different. Note that similarly, General Motors some time ago got rid of AC Delco 5w-20 and stated that AC Delco 0w-20 should be used in all their 5w-20 applications.
 
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Ran this 10,000 miles in my Tacoma and had a UOA, didn't shear out of grade at all so it's very robust.
 
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ILSAC oils in general aren't "all that" so neither is the M1 0W-30AFE. The KV100 viscosity as little to do with the film strength or robustness of the oil in hard service. if your car will experience sub zero starts often, it would be a choice, but since it is NOT a true synthetic it wont perform nearly as well as say a Motul Eco-Nergy 5w30 8100 which is knocking on the door of the 20 grade range and had been in the past a majority PAO.
 
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0W30 AFE better be all that and more because I just bought some last night!!! ;^) I ran it last winter season and I couldn't tell it from all the synth 5W30s I have used in the past...didn't really expect to notice a difference and we actually never had a really good cold spell in the Whites that season, anyway, at least not when I was up there to ski. Won't need the oil until November or so, but it was on rollback at WM and I wanted to grab the rebate while it was still in effect...although now I am thinking that maybe I already got two checks from XOM in this period! We'll see what happens. Running PP 5W30 as of a few weeks ago as PB had a nice sale and rebate offer for it (still waiting on the rebate) and I was a little disturbed when I drained the M1 10W30 HM out. I can't swear that the oil came out of the car looking like this as I wipe off my drain pan well enough but don't sterilize it....but, I noticed a fair amount of scummy grey/black stuff floating on top of the old oil when I went to pour it into the empty 5l PP jug. Have never seen anything like this before, would have taken a pic but I was blocking my daughter's car in the garage and wanted to finish up ASAP. Maybe looked a little bit like when you are trying to stir a powdered drink mix into water or milk and some of it bunches up and floats on top. Definitely was not just bubbles and also struck me as stuff that should have gotten filtered... This was also the first OCI in which I noticed some signs of oil usage, just a bit but it seemed to be a new phenomenon. I would guess the oil and engine were both just fine, but I'm not sure I'll use 10W30 HM again...I'm sure it's possible there was some "cleaning" going on, but I can't imagine my engine was really dirty after a steady diet of M1 5W30 and some other good synth oils. I still have the filter, maybe I should figure out how to cut it open and see what's in there? I will definitely keep an eye on the dipstick for signs of consumption in the future and will be prepared to snap some pics of the PP 5W30 when it comes out in in case it looks "funny".
 
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OT Hey Virtus_Probi, Thanks for the note on M1HM 10W30. I'll keep an extra keen eye on the wife's Hyundai for oil consumption and examine the drained oil with more interest than normal. I've not noticed any anomaly in past usage of this oil. BACK TO THE OP As for 0W30 AFE, I've considered it for both our vehicles but haven't pulled the trigger. OP, if interested, check out member Gohkan's "base oil quality index" for some fun reading. Not industry standardized testing but interesting in it's own right. He also gives an account for levels of PAO in commonly available motor oils.
 
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Originally Posted by Cujet
I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.
Has anyone summarized the test results or is this a just a presumption left over from the old school? A spreadsheet with with UOA viscosities should suffice.
 
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Originally Posted by Cujet
I find that plain old Mobil 1, 10W-30 is more shear stable in my vehicles than the 5W or 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils.
Has anyone summarized the test results or is this a just a presumption left over from the old school? A spreadsheet with with UOA viscosities should suffice.
Fewer VII's should be required for the narrower viscosity spread of 10w-30, I could see that potentially explaining the differences in shear stability, if indeed there is a difference that could be backed up by UOA data.
 
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Originally Posted by wemay
Hey Virtus_Probi, Thanks for the note on M1HM 10W30. I'll keep an extra keen eye on the wife's Hyundai for oil consumption and examine the drained oil with more interest than normal. I've not noticed any anomaly in past usage of this oil. ….
Howdy wemay, hope all is well with you and the family! Can't really explain the possible weirdness I noticed with M1 10W30 HM, I guess I need to realize my car is getting old and what I'm seeing might just reflect aging and possible deposit collections that could have been dissolved. I do have to admit that I did a mental "WHOAH!" when I first looked closely at that pan....I sure would have noticed something like that before unless I had done a vacuum extraction (which I think has only happened twice with my car). I fully expect that this is a top quality oil, but maybe it's just not a good match for my car? I only did one run with M1 5W30 EP in my vehicle because I noticed a funny little rattle in very particular conditions during that OCI...I honestly think that it was probably due to the oil filter being a bit wonky mechanically, but I figured why not pick another quality oil in the future just in the very unlikely case that EP had something to do with the strangeness? I suspected the filter was behind that rattle more strongly after my daughter complained about starting her Impreza right after my wife took it to Midas for a change and I discovered they used an oil filter without an ADBV...things were fine when I put an appropriate filter from my stockpile on it. My best guess was the ADBV was not working right in the filter I used with that EP, but who knows.... Take Care!
 
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