M1 5W30 vs. 10W30 vs 0W40 vs. 5W40

[DockHoliday]

My Volvo S60 R (5 cyl, 300 HP, turbo) is due for an oil change. I would like to use a readily available and affordable oil, so I will be switching to Mobil 1 (from Amsoil).

Thus, my choices are 5W30, 10W30, 0W40, and 5W40. All of the these viscositis are acceptable per my owners manual. However, my manual does recommend using an A3 rated oil, which only the 0W40 meets.

I regularly shop at Costco, which sells M1 5W30 and 10W30, and would like to avoid a trip to Walmart for the 0W40 or 5W40. However, if there is reason to believe that the 0W40 or 5W40 will be a much better choice, then I will go with one of the 30 wt oils at Costco. Note that I use FP and LC.

Given the above, is one oil a better choice for Chicago, using a 7,500 OCI?

 

[Drew99GT]

I'd say the 5w-40, although several people have reported more sluggishness from their engines with it. I'd stay away from the 30 weights, unless you use an A3 rated 30 weight, which is pretty much non-existent on a store shelf (Maxlife Synthetic is the only one I know of). maybe try both the 5w-40 and the 0w-40 on consecutive drains and see which one gives the old buttdyno the best feel.

 

[jafo]

My local costco is now stocking 5w40 , I buy it because I can use it in my motorbike as well .

 

[gudmund]

Castrol "GC" 0w30 is A3 rated

 

[Drew99GT]

quote:

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Originally posted by gudmund:
Castrol "GC" 0w30 is A3 rated

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OH MY GOSH! I forgot about the holy grail.

 

[cortazzo]

yeah, the GC might be the way to go. Or perhaps BC which is 5w40 i think.

 

[gudmund]

better get to church and ask for forgiveness also with a few hail-marys and you should be ok this time around.(don't ask me if there are any other A3 rated ones for I don't know)

 

[LarryL]

I've been running RL 10w-40 in a 96 850 Turbo Volvo that gets driven frequently between San Diego and Phoenix, very hot... I tried M1 0w-40 and had a problem. On these Volvos there is a switch that blocks the A/C if the oil temp gets too low or the oil temp gets too high. With the M1 0w-40 it happened twice on 105+ days and made for a very uncomfortable ride. I switchd back to the RL 10w-40 and it never happened again. I think M1 oils are on the thin side of their posted viscosity ranges.

 

[ebaker]

I'd mix a couple of quarts of M1 EP 15w50 with M1 EP 10w30 (or 5w30). I'd feel uncomsortable running a 30wt in a highly turboed motor. I'm cautious about the reduced additives in the new SM 0w40 M1.

 

[Volvohead]

I'm driving an '05 R. The Volvo white blocks seem to like 40 weights. Did you tune it? If so, I would further shy away from the 30 weights.

While I think the Delvac 1/T&SUV formulae are perfect for the R, there may be warranty compliance issues. Neither has an A3 rating (but I bet both would easily meet A3 if tested). Were I not under warranty, I'd run Delvac 1.

Otherwise, the M1 0w-40 works fine in the R as a capable year round fill. It is readily available and much cheaper than RL. That's what I run.

I know this is contrary to prevailing wisdom, but in that engine, I wouldn't run ANY oil the full OCI.

 

[DockHoliday]

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
The Volvo white blocks seem to like 40 weights.

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What is a "white block"?

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
Did you tune it? If so, I would further shy away from the 30 weights.

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No, mine is stock so far.

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:

I know this is contrary to prevailing wisdom, but in that engine, I wouldn't run ANY oil the full OCI.

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I drive lots of highway miles, so I have no concerns with the 7,500 OCI.

 

[AndyH]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:

quote:

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Originally posted by Volvohead:
The Volvo white blocks seem to like 40 weights.

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What is a "white block"?

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From this message thread:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=30907&highlight=white+block

"redblock rwd 4cyl ohc. whiteblock I6 or I5
960 got the white I6 otherwise they're all fwd/awd."

So your S60R has a "white" block (i.e., engine block painted white)

 

[DockHoliday]

Thanks for all of the excellent info and opinions so far.

At this point, I am leaning towards M1 0W40. If you feel that this is not the best choice, please speak up!

 

[John_E]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:
At this point, I am leaning towards M1 0W40. If you feel that this is not the best choice, please speak up!

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I use it in my VW 1.8T. It may or may not be the BEST possible choice, but I think it's essentially as good as any other weight-appropriate synthetic oil.

 

[Volvohead]

M1 0w-40 may shear a bit over time in that R engine (wringing 300+ Hp from just 2.5 litres is quite a trick), but even as a "heavy" 30 weight, it should handle anything the R engine can throw at it, provided the OCI is sane.

I really would consider a UOA if you're going to stretch it to 7,500. That's the warranty OCI, and it's only intended to get you through the warranty. While the typical Volvo turbo is relatively easy on oil, the R is not the typical Volvo turbo.

 

[Pablo]

White block refers to aluminum block. Unpainted.

Red block refers iron block. Painted orangy-red.

Amsoil is readily available. 5W-40 works good in my 850.

 

[DockHoliday]

M1 0W40 it is!

Thanks for all of the assistance!

 

[Hirev]

I like Mobil 1 0w 40 SL a lot, its in my truck right now. But kind of disappointed in the weaker appearing additive package in the newer Mobil 1 SM formula.

You might also check out Mobil 1 10w 40 EP. It is a A3,B3,/B4 SL/CF oil. It should work nice in a 7500+ OCI turbo car.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I would save the 30 weights for winter. My guess is that 0w-40 would work fine, but you'd have to keep topping it. The 5w-40 is what I use and it does not feel too thick. V8Blitz is the one who claimed that after running it for like 2 days, it seems thick at first but normalizes. 10w-40 EP would be great too for 7500 mi. Time intervals are a good reliable way to service the oil. Every 6 months, swap summer/winter oil.

 

[Volvohead]

10w-40 EP could be an ideal alternative -- if only it was available. No one around here carries it and I'm too busy to pester distributors.

I'm still running my SL formula stash. But the jury is still out on whether the SM version, with its reduced add pack but likely better base oils, is as good. I suspect it is. In 35 years (since using SD), I've yet to see an API change that resulted in reduced overall performance from the previous standard.