M1 5W-40 T&SUV, 8k miles, 1996 Audi A4 2.8 V6

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mori, I used to feel the same way....but, just put it under your belt. The rhetoric is created on boards such as these...

Syntec 5-50 is obviously a better product for your application. I would highly recommend switching back.
 
Moribundman
I also think going back to the Castrol 5W50 would be a good idea as it could help your consumption issues.

On the base oil thing I don't think Castrol would be able to meet the 5W50 spread by just using a group 3 base oil.
Others have posted that it's mostly group 4 and 5 based,regardless it's it's a good performing oil.I might try it next on my 12v VR6 next once i'm finished with my M1 0W40 interval.
 
Hi,
moribundman - you are aware that I have extensive experience with Delvac 1 5w-40 over many years, millions of miles and in a diverse group of vehicles - both diesel and petrol (2,4,6 and 8 cyls air and coolant cooled)

Your report is an excellent one and I think this viscosity lubricant is ideal for this engine. The oil consumption you have would be rated as "normal" by the engine's maker and indeed this greatly aids the durability of the lubricant

This oil darkens quickly in some engines(in a very short time in my BMW and Subaru for instance)and stays quite "original" for long periods in others - my Porsche being one.
See the eight UOAs on the Porsche engine in the UOA section

A blotter test with new oil and then at say 1k intervals will be of interest to you

As to the TBN - this oil (and engine) can safely go down to the following numbers;

to D4739 - 1.5,
to D2896 - 3

I hope this helps
Regards
cheers.gif

Doug
 
I just noticed that for some reason the above link to my UOA is the wrong one. I have no idea how that happened. Here is the correct link, in case the image doesn't show in the post:
http://tinypic.com/1tahdh



Dr. T, Alan, for now I'll be following Terry's suggestions and hopefully gain some improvements in one or two regards. Depending on how things look in a couple months, I will either stay with this oil or pick one that may be better suited.

Doug, it was you who convinced me to give M1 5W-40 a shot. I do like how the engine runs with it, which is to say quiet, and consumption is lower than with M1 0W-40. A blotter test may indeed be interesting. I guess I'll have to learn how to interpret oil stains!
grin.gif
 
Hi,
moribundman - you said;

"......I do like how the engine runs with it, which is to say quiet, and consumption is lower than with M1 0W-40. A blotter test may indeed be interesting. I guess I'll have to learn how to interpret oil stains!"

A pair of my overalls are on the way!! Sorry I could not uplift my workshop's floor!!!!

Regards
Doug
 
Audie can post what ever they want on normal oil consumption, but man that's not acceptaple to me. I have little tolerance for any oil consumption, actually none.

But do agree with others, if you get substancial better results with M1 on oil burn, I think that's what I'd use even if the money was going into the Devils pocket.

I'm very surprised 1 quart per 1,000 miles is considered okay. That's a manufacturer who'd would have trouble getting my money.
 
Hi,
Mackelroy - Porsche's published oil consumption using their Approved oils is up to 1.5 litres per 1000kms! It has been this way for 30 years!!

Daimler Benz had(have)similar parameters for decades when under warranty as have many manufacturers from various countries
VW-Audi and BMW use similar figures too I believe

NA manufacturer's have used very similar guidelines for decades too

It is wise to expect all engines to consume some oil regardless of the brand used

Regards
 
quote:

I'm very surprised 1 quart per 1,000 miles is considered okay. That's a manufacturer who'd would have trouble getting my money.

Actually, per the manual it's 1 liter per 1k km, so about 1 quart per 700 miles. That number is high and does apply to realistic oil consumption at high RPM as often encountered in Europe. All my cars drank oil when driving Autobahn at 200 km/h for extended periods, but needed much less when driving in the city or on the highway. Oil consumption also increases if you tow for example a boat or a camper. The 1 l/1k km figure is not unrealistic. This number does not mean that the engine is allowed to consume that amount of oil right out of the box at all times!

Until 70k miles, my Audi consumed about 1/3 qt oil per 10k miles. That number was very low for an Audi, and the dealer and my independent Audi mechanic found this figure hard to believe. Oil consumption has increased with age, and in my opinion, it is mostly due to worn valve stem seals, seals which at 9 years old cannot be expected to be in excellent shape. If my car were to have the 30 valve instead of the 12 valve motor, I would expect even higher consumption! The way I drive my car has a huge influence on consumption! If I were to shift up all the time at 3000 RPM, my oil consumption would drop considerably. Alas, I rarely shift before intake manifold switchover (to shorter runner) occurs at 4100 RPM and I routinely redline the engine.

My cars with the worst oil consumption were a Chevy Celebrity ('85) and Buick wagon ('84). Both needed about a quart every 500 miles.

The 2.8 12v engine has low-tension rings. The oil rings are only 1.5 mm, which seems narrow. I know a guy who has his engine rebuilt with gapless rings. His oil rings had collapsed at about 150 k miles (Tuned 12v engine, makes 1/3 hp over stock). The pistons have been milled to accept 3 mm oil rings. The people who rebuild his engine said the stock oil rings on the 12v engine were undersized.

Anyway, I will see oil consumption comes down, following Terry's suggestions.
 
IF you haven't done so already, I'd highly recommend an AutoRX treatment - use a 15w-40 conventional lube as the carrier oil for the AutoRX. This will improve your ring seal, clean deposits off the valve stems seals and help control oil consumption.

This is really too much oil consumption for a low mileage Audi. My 1990 Audi 100 w/ 227k miles barely uses any oil between changes. I've had the same experience with the other five VW/Audi cars I've owned running PAO/Ester synthetics, going back to 1978.

TS
 
quote:

IF you haven't done so already, I'd highly recommend an AutoRX treatment - use a 15w-40 conventional lube as the carrier oil for the AutoRX.

Due to Terry's advice, ARX is now in the engine. I will not make any comments or pass judgement until I'm done with the procedure.

Did you ever replace the valve stem seals on your Audi 100, and if so, at what mileage? Both my VW Sciroccos, an '81 Mark I and a '89 Mark II, needed new valve stem seals every 50-70 k miles.
 
(((It is wise to expect all engines to consume some oil regardless of the brand used)))

I've only had one new vehicle that used oil excessively. a 1998 chevy truck, the salesman told me they loosened the top ends for MPG and they burn alittle more oil nowadys. I looked at him kind of funny, but sure enough it was burning 1 quart in 3000 miles. I dumped it and went back to Toyota, 3 new vehicles purchased from that manufacture yielded zero oil burn issues.

That's the expectation, luckily most are not like me or else some of these manufacturers would have no customers.
 
70k? I guess the wear is begining to show and consumtion is increasing. Are 10k change intervals too much?

I ran a Toyota 16 valve twin cam, 12,000 rpm redline to 145,000 miles . No burn issues at all no oil adding in between the 3 to 4k intervals, no consumption.

Very well built, 1 timing belt , 1 set of fan belts,, 1 battery and a few sets of tires and that was it for 145,000 miles.
 
quote:

a few sets of tires and that was it for 145,000 miles.

lol.gif


The way I drive I don't get more than 12-15k out of high perfomance summer tires. And that's despite AWD and traction control.

Did you even look at the UOA and read other people's comments?
wink.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mackelroy:
I ran a Toyota 16 valve twin cam, 12,000 rpm redline to 145,000 miles.

Wow! 12,000 rpm redline? Which Toyota model was that? I've always thought that Honda was the only Japanese (mass) carmaker that produces high-revving engine until recent years when Toyota introduced the I4 in the Celica.

[ March 15, 2005, 08:15 PM: Message edited by: Bugzii ]
 
TooSlick, are there different dino 15-40 versions? Should one use a HD/Commercial grade 15-40 dino or are they all the same?
 
quote:

My cars with the worst oil consumption were a Chevy Celebrity ('85) and Buick wagon ('84). Both needed about a quart every 500 miles.

What mileage was on these engines when getting this consumption?

1qt/1000mi is unacceptable in a normally driven engine (excluding a rotory) with under 60k total miles , that's my opinion (and others).

The Mfr's who say this is normal/acceptable also state that engine break-in procedures are unneccessary due to improved production tolerances, etc.
shocked.gif

They just don't want to see people complaining about it to their Service Dept. until after the warranty has expired...
grin.gif
 
quote:

Mori, what about trying GC???

Dr. T, I used 5W-50 for years in good faith, believing I was using a true synthetic. Castrol lost me as a customer.

ilikeguns, the Chevy had about 75k, the Buick 110k miles on the clock. "Normally driven" means different things to different people.
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Dr. T, I used 5W-50 for years in good faith, believing I was using a true synthetic. Castrol lost me as a customer.
================================================

What's the difference between a true synthetic & false synthetic?

Are you saying there's dino in Syntec????
 
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