M1 15W50 in daily driver
- Thread starter Garry
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First question= no
second question=yes/maybe/possibly/could/
at worst no inctrease in wear.
Why not use ______instead?
second question=yes/maybe/possibly/could/
at worst no inctrease in wear.
Why not use ______instead?
Nope you will be just fine. You could mix 5W30 and 15W50 in equal parts if you are looking for a heavier oil than 10W30. The newish 0W40 might be just the ticket too. Though just running the 15W50 will be just fine.
Its too thick. You'll loose HP and fuel economy in normal driving. You could mix as was suggested or better yet Delvac 1.
No, you will not go straight to ****.
Your protection/longevity will not increase either unless your racing that 4Runner or pulling a big, heavy trailer all the time. In the Mobil1 PCEO line, their 10w-30 would be the best pick for you...
For summer use M1 15W50 has always worked well for me in every Toyota we have owned. This does not mean it will the best oil for your application. It definately will not hurt it any at all.
My family has owned one of just about every engine Toyota has ever made. Your 3.4 V6 is one of the few engines we have not owned!
As a mater of fact my Moms Tundra 4.7V8 has M115W50 in it right know. My Dads Tacoma also has 15W50 in it right know. I have Redline 5W40 in my Camry 2.2L.
My family has owned one of just about every engine Toyota has ever made. Your 3.4 V6 is one of the few engines we have not owned!
As a mater of fact my Moms Tundra 4.7V8 has M115W50 in it right know. My Dads Tacoma also has 15W50 in it right know. I have Redline 5W40 in my Camry 2.2L.
I think you will be pleased with the protection M1 15W50 will provide your 4Runner; unless my experience is unique (which I doubt) your fuel usage will not be that much different with the 15W50 over the 10W30.
[ October 11, 2003, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
[ October 11, 2003, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
I think John-boy likes thick oils...
Patman
Staff member
I agree with AL, I think Delvac 1 5w40 is the better choice here. Our Walmarts up here all sell it too. ($35 for a 4L jug)
Jelly what I like is the right oil for the temp. Unlike some people that only recommend 0W30 and 5W30 I understand the API VIS. Temp Chart. I am also not affraid to put sometyhing heavier then 5W30 in my engine for fear it will self destruct. 0W30 in hot summer conditions in a Truck based SUV that might be used for more the groccery getting is not the hot setup in my book. Now if he was to ask about winter time use then something like a synthetic 5W30 or 0W30 or 5W40 might make sense.
I also have run Mobil-1 15W50 in the summer and 5W30 or 10W30 in the winter off and on since the late 1980 early 1990 in Toyotas. One of my test mules is a 1986 4Runner still going strong!
I also have alot of experince with thicker oils and none with 0W30. I will not recommend something I have not tried myself in long term self testing. THeir are some on this site that just pull recomendations out of their rear with no long term testing at all. If it sounds good at the time they go for it!
We also have some reports comeing in from people that have decided to try thicker oils with both positive subjective feed back and positive improvments in their UOA.
No matter how thin oil advocates try to slice it you must choose the right oil for the temps and driveing cycle. 15W50 dureing an Artic like winter would be as silly as 0W20 pulling a 7500lb trailer through the high desert at high speeds! Just because your engine survives either of these does not make either one the ideal combination!
P.S. My bias is to useing all weights of oil not just 0w30,5W30,10W30 and new 20Wt's. I also will only make a solid recomendation of things I have tried that have worked well.
I also have run Mobil-1 15W50 in the summer and 5W30 or 10W30 in the winter off and on since the late 1980 early 1990 in Toyotas. One of my test mules is a 1986 4Runner still going strong!
I also have alot of experince with thicker oils and none with 0W30. I will not recommend something I have not tried myself in long term self testing. THeir are some on this site that just pull recomendations out of their rear with no long term testing at all. If it sounds good at the time they go for it!
We also have some reports comeing in from people that have decided to try thicker oils with both positive subjective feed back and positive improvments in their UOA.
No matter how thin oil advocates try to slice it you must choose the right oil for the temps and driveing cycle. 15W50 dureing an Artic like winter would be as silly as 0W20 pulling a 7500lb trailer through the high desert at high speeds! Just because your engine survives either of these does not make either one the ideal combination!
P.S. My bias is to useing all weights of oil not just 0w30,5W30,10W30 and new 20Wt's. I also will only make a solid recomendation of things I have tried that have worked well.
Hard to go wrong with Delvac-1 but I have not tested it in a Toyota yet! I actualy chose 5W40 Redline due to it being preety close to a perfect comprimise. I also have every intension of testing Delvac-1 after my second OCI and UOA of Redline. I wanted to compare Redline to Delvac-1 and 5W40 was the best way to elimanate viscosity as a variable.
I have 5W40 in the Camry right now. It is going to get a free ride dureing winter. THe spring UOA will be for the money! Then Delvac-1 is going in. Depending on temps Delvac might get sampled the first time around if it is a summer cycle. If temos drop too much then Delvac will also get a free ride the first time around also!
I am predicting that Redline will out perform Delvac-1. I am only going to use UOA as my judge of performance.
I am also droping a sample from my Mothers Tundra with 15W50 today.
I have 5W40 in the Camry right now. It is going to get a free ride dureing winter. THe spring UOA will be for the money! Then Delvac-1 is going in. Depending on temps Delvac might get sampled the first time around if it is a summer cycle. If temos drop too much then Delvac will also get a free ride the first time around also!
I am predicting that Redline will out perform Delvac-1. I am only going to use UOA as my judge of performance.
I am also droping a sample from my Mothers Tundra with 15W50 today.
I understand John...completely. Heck, I have a mother who will only use 5w-30 because "that's what the manual and oil filler cap says I should use".
I was just giving you a hard time.
By the way, I run 15w-40 in my gasoline pickup and according the a few people I know, I'm gonna kill my engine by doing this...
I was just giving you a hard time.
By the way, I run 15w-40 in my gasoline pickup and according the a few people I know, I'm gonna kill my engine by doing this...
Jelly my post with it's slightly negative tone was not directed at you. It was just built up thin oil angst!! I was getting ready to repost to make sure you knew this but you had already read it. I asumed you were playing devils advocate.
You want to run an oil that works with the engine, period. Whether it's a 20,30 or 40 wt. it doesn't matter. If the 20wt is giving you the same wear as the 40wt, it's a no brainer, use the 20wt. If your engine needs a thicker oil, use one. There is no debate of this "thick vs thin". It's a stupid arguement IMO. Whatever works in you engine works. John, I'd bet your 86 Toyota would be going just as strong on a 30wt oil.
I don't think anyone has said your engine will self destruct by using a heavier oil. They are saying thought that too thick an oil can rob HP and increase heat and you won't have any benefit of using it. Why on earth would I want to run a 15w-50 in a 1.8L Corolla when a 20wt or 30wt is doing a great job? Makes zero sense. Match the engine with the viscosity and usually the owner's manual has taken care of this for you. Not always though!
[ October 11, 2003, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
I don't think anyone has said your engine will self destruct by using a heavier oil. They are saying thought that too thick an oil can rob HP and increase heat and you won't have any benefit of using it. Why on earth would I want to run a 15w-50 in a 1.8L Corolla when a 20wt or 30wt is doing a great job? Makes zero sense. Match the engine with the viscosity and usually the owner's manual has taken care of this for you. Not always though!
[ October 11, 2003, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
The great oil viscosity debate.I will post the true answere to this debate. You want to pick an oil that is thick enough to keep the crank and rod berings separated. That will depend on how your engine is operated ,temperature, transmission. Too thin and bad things happen too thick and there is a power loss .If you beat the snot out of it or lug it the 15w/50 would work ,if not 10w/30 will work , your engine has an oil cooler. 10w/30 is all that is needed.I have a 92 6 cyl toyota p/u I used 15w/50 m1 It is fine.
[ October 11, 2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
[ October 11, 2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
I've used M1 15W-50 for about ten years now, and my father about 7-8 in our respective, heavy, big V8 vehicles. Lows in our part of the country rarely hit below 20F (geeze, so I readjsut the choke), but hot weather running is another story altogether. (20W-50 is on the factory list for both of our vehicles; a 1971 Chrysler 383 and a 1987 454 Suburban).
I'm not about to tell you that I am averse to other picks, but in our case this oil reduced consumption significantly and became more predictable to boot.
I lost a water pump one night and continued driving another 12 miles before being able to stop (though I was barely moving at the end; the preignition rattle was unreal). Had to wait 2-hours sitting outside 7-11 just to let it cool off enough to hose some water in.
Replaced pump, refilled coolant, changed oil and filter. Drove another 10k or so before pulling heads to decarbon, replace seals, etc. 26-year old oem head gaskets were, amazingly, just fine. Have gone another 35k since then.
May not be the right choice for you, but has served very well for us.
Were it me, I'd carefully consult the factory recommendations, and hire Terry Dyson to guide me through a couple of analyses. Here's some of my experience on one vehicle:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000646
(Link shows first analysis.)
(Current oil fill is Redline 10W-30 with a Donaldson P169071.)
Take advantage of what this site offers, and spend a few bucks to get numbers you can base your judgement upon. That makes it worthwhile for me.
After this vehicle, then I have a couple more to play with. Once oil/filter/interval is reasonably established, then I can see to the other concerns of long-life. No more hit-and-miss. Just the occasional analysis to see if trend is holding and that problems aren't cropping up.
I'm not about to tell you that I am averse to other picks, but in our case
I lost a water pump one night and continued driving another 12 miles before being able to stop (though I was barely moving at the end; the preignition rattle was unreal). Had to wait 2-hours sitting outside 7-11 just to let it cool off enough to hose some water in.
Replaced pump, refilled coolant, changed oil and filter. Drove another 10k or so before pulling heads to decarbon, replace seals, etc. 26-year old oem head gaskets were, amazingly, just fine. Have gone another 35k since then.
May not be the right choice for you, but has served very well for us.
Were it me, I'd carefully consult the factory recommendations, and hire Terry Dyson to guide me through a couple of analyses. Here's some of my experience on one vehicle:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000646
(Link shows first analysis.)
(Current oil fill is Redline 10W-30 with a Donaldson P169071.)
Take advantage of what this site offers, and spend a few bucks to get numbers you can base your judgement upon. That makes it worthwhile for me.
After this vehicle, then I have a couple more to play with. Once oil/filter/interval is reasonably established, then I can see to the other concerns of long-life. No more hit-and-miss. Just the occasional analysis to see if trend is holding and that problems aren't cropping up.
TheTanSedan...you tell us about how good Mobil1 15w-50 is, and then you link us to a 0w-40 analysis, and then inform us you currently have 10w-30 in.
Have you changed your mind or something?
Have you changed your mind or something?
JB one run of Redline (5W40) and single UOA is pointless as many previous posts here confirm. Trend analysis is required. Why not 2 or 3 with RL then try Delvac 1?
Yes, Although I have not used it myself, I get it on GOOD authority (several sources) that Delvac-1 is a Top of the line motor oil... one of the best for many applications.
As far as your predictions, I'll bite and go with
the Delvac-1, but do a real good test and go for several drains, keep the filters clean, etc...
Three, Three, Three on each (oil change), perhaps FOUR to be sure. Then you are only part sure because environment and copnditions and parts are changing/wearing etc. but yes,IMO - do several OIL CHANGES to get a good confirmed report with several UOA on each, that's the only way IMO to have an educated opinion.
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