M1 0w40 or Red Line 5w40?

[Gilitar]

As some of you know I recently bought a Dodge Caliber SRT-4. I swapped out the factory fill at 860 miles for fresh fill of M1 0w40 and I'm starting to think about my next oil change. Dodge calls for M1 0w40 or a synthetic 5w40 if M1 0w40 is not available. I will eventually go with a stage 1 upgrade and a new downpipe to add approx 50 horsepower. I am contemplating changing over to Red Line, but it you guys think Mobil 1 0w40 will protect just as well why spend the extra cash? What do you guys think?

 

[tomcat27]

I would go with the M1 0W-40 or 5W-40

 

[simple_gifts]

FYI: Redline makes a 0W-40

No clue on your primary concern; I was going to chime in on API certification (which RL is not), but with those mods, there will plenty of other things for the dealer to nag you about...

 

[hate2work]

This is what I'd use if I were me...

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

 

[AzFireGuy79]

Redline 5w-40 is well like by some of the BMW crowd. If you are going to the track with it I would recommmend the Redline. If you never see the track and just run your car on the road back and forth to work i would say Mobil 1 would be more than adequate. These oils really are not in the same league.

Im not in any way bashing Mobil 1. I like there oils. RL is primarily POE base while the Mobil 1 is said to be a group IV. RL is more of a high performance type oil. In my experience with it, RL is one of the best oils for high performance cars. Especially if they see track duty.

I run the 10w-40 in my 96 SS Camaro with a T-76GTS turbo(1,000rwhp with meth). It's pretty slow!

 

[saaber1]

Personally I would go with Amsoil or Redline over M10W40. What is the cost of M10W40 there? Here m10W40 is about $9. Reportedly you can buy redline for $8.20/qt delivered from ogracing online and I have seen it for $9.20 delivered from racing parts wholesale (both are by-the-case prices). I would guess Amsoil, Redline, and M1 0W40 are all about the same price?

 

[simple_gifts]

don't let this sway you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WK2EWkQfTec

 

[virginoil]

Mobil 1 0w40 for of the reasons stated already.

 

[buster]

M1 0w-40 is really all you need. RL/Amsoil are good too but I'm not sure what you really gain. If tracking the car, I'd opt for Redline.

 

[Craig in Canada]

Is there a reason that the jump to a 5W40 means going straight to redline?

Why not a 5W40 HDEO (diesels have turbos too)? I'm thinking Rotella-T, Delvac. Any of these will be tougher than M1 0W40. The M1 seems to do well at extended drains and whatnot, but shears like crazy.

If I was running a performance-oriented car in the far south like you are (ie. not a Yaris, Civic, Camry), I'd probably use a dino 15W40 HDEO year-round. Most synthetic versions of these same oils bring you to a 5W40.

 

[Saab9-3]

http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1532313#Post1532313

here is a UOA of Redline 0w40 from my saab, this was my last UOA on stock boost (15psi), I do have a 3inch DP and exhaust on this UOA.

 

[opposite_locker]

As mentioned...with track use, Redline. For daily driving, Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w40

 

[Volvohead]

With RL, you may be able to go to a 5 or 10w-30 weight in that engine. It will make a good improvement in spool up and overall performance, too.

I wouldn't run M1 0w-40 in that engine. You likely don't need any 0w oil running that far south. A 5 or 10w oil is fine and will hold up better with the turbo.

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: saaber1
What is the cost of M10W40 there? Here m10W40 is about $9.

Boy are you getting ripped...

It's $6.27 a quart around here.

 

[Gilitar]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
I wouldn't run M1 0w-40 in that engine. You likely don't need any 0w oil running that far south. A 5 or 10w oil is fine and will hold up better with the turbo.


It specifically calls for Mobil 1 0w40 or synthetic 5w40 if Mobil 1 0w40 is unavailable. I want an oil that I don't have to worry about the turbo cooking. Red Line is probably overkill in that department. On the other hand I saw a UOA where Red Line had a low TBN rather quickly. BTW, I am open to using any european rated synthetic 5w40.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Gilitar - M1 0W-40 is well suited to hot operating conditions and for use in turbocharged engines. That is why Porsche use it!

Remember that it is a SAE40 lubricant!!

 

[buster]

Doug, I read on a wiki link that XOM makes a Motorsport version for track use. Do you know of such an animal?

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi Buster,
they probably do make such a version - I really don't know

I have seen the usual M1 0W-40 being poured from conventional containers into cars at the Nurburgring though!

I suspect they have many variation on the theme - I do know that the M1 15W-50 used in some V8Supercars here is/was a mildly reformulated product

 

[opposite_locker]

Track use oils usually have very low detergent levels, and are therefore not recommended for street use.

Mobil 1 0w40 and 5w40 tdt are about as good as it gets for OTC 40wt motor oil. I would consider Amsoil full synthetic (not XL) for extended drains and Redline for track use. If neither apply to you, stick with Mobil 1 and sleep well.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: Gilitar


It specifically calls for Mobil 1 0w40 or synthetic 5w40 if Mobil 1 0w40 is unavailable.


And the oil cap on my Volvo R recommends Castrol. That doesn't mean I use it. Recognize cross-marketing arrangements and don't be a lemming.

Originally Posted By: Gilitar
I want an oil that I don't have to worry about the turbo cooking.


Then you should lean towards RL or another POE-heavy base oil. These will have the best thermal performance. Another oil is Motul 300v, but that is more of a track oil than RL in the weights you are looking at and is ugly expensive.

Before getting all in love with M1 0w-40, be aware that it routinely shears down into the lower 30s with higher pressure turbos unless you have a large sump capacity. Terry quietly revealed its test sequence trick a number of years ago here. A very fine oil that won't hurt you, but not without its warts.

Unless you're coming up north, I see no meaningful need for a 0w oil at your ambients, ever.

But if you must have a 0w oil, have you considered GC? While getting long in the tooth, it is just about a 40 and does NOT shear down. Still a robust, terrific oil.