M1 0w40 or Red Line 5w40?

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As some of you know I recently bought a Dodge Caliber SRT-4. I swapped out the factory fill at 860 miles for fresh fill of M1 0w40 and I'm starting to think about my next oil change. Dodge calls for M1 0w40 or a synthetic 5w40 if M1 0w40 is not available. I will eventually go with a stage 1 upgrade and a new downpipe to add approx 50 horsepower. I am contemplating changing over to Red Line, but it you guys think Mobil 1 0w40 will protect just as well why spend the extra cash? What do you guys think?
 
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FYI: Redline makes a 0W-40 No clue on your primary concern; I was going to chime in on API certification (which RL is not), but with those mods, there will plenty of other things for the dealer to nag you about...
 
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Redline 5w-40 is well like by some of the BMW crowd. If you are going to the track with it I would recommmend the Redline. If you never see the track and just run your car on the road back and forth to work i would say Mobil 1 would be more than adequate. These oils really are not in the same league. Im not in any way bashing Mobil 1. I like there oils. RL is primarily POE base while the Mobil 1 is said to be a group IV. RL is more of a high performance type oil. In my experience with it, RL is one of the best oils for high performance cars. Especially if they see track duty. I run the 10w-40 in my 96 SS Camaro with a T-76GTS turbo(1,000rwhp with meth). It's pretty slow!
 
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Personally I would go with Amsoil or Redline over M10W40. What is the cost of M10W40 there? Here m10W40 is about $9. Reportedly you can buy redline for $8.20/qt delivered from ogracing online and I have seen it for $9.20 delivered from racing parts wholesale (both are by-the-case prices). I would guess Amsoil, Redline, and M1 0W40 are all about the same price?
 
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M1 0w-40 is really all you need. RL/Amsoil are good too but I'm not sure what you really gain. If tracking the car, I'd opt for Redline.
 
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Is there a reason that the jump to a 5W40 means going straight to redline? Why not a 5W40 HDEO (diesels have turbos too)? I'm thinking Rotella-T, Delvac. Any of these will be tougher than M1 0W40. The M1 seems to do well at extended drains and whatnot, but shears like crazy. If I was running a performance-oriented car in the far south like you are (ie. not a Yaris, Civic, Camry), I'd probably use a dino 15W40 HDEO year-round. Most synthetic versions of these same oils bring you to a 5W40.
 
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With RL, you may be able to go to a 5 or 10w-30 weight in that engine. It will make a good improvement in spool up and overall performance, too. I wouldn't run M1 0w-40 in that engine. You likely don't need any 0w oil running that far south. A 5 or 10w oil is fine and will hold up better with the turbo.
 
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 Originally Posted By: saaber1
What is the cost of M10W40 there? Here m10W40 is about $9.
Boy are you getting ripped... It's $6.27 a quart around here.
 

Gilitar

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 Originally Posted By: Volvohead
I wouldn't run M1 0w-40 in that engine. You likely don't need any 0w oil running that far south. A 5 or 10w oil is fine and will hold up better with the turbo.
It specifically calls for Mobil 1 0w40 or synthetic 5w40 if Mobil 1 0w40 is unavailable. I want an oil that I don't have to worry about the turbo cooking. Red Line is probably overkill in that department. On the other hand I saw a UOA where Red Line had a low TBN rather quickly. BTW, I am open to using any european rated synthetic 5w40.
 
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Doug, I read on a wiki link that XOM makes a Motorsport version for track use. Do you know of such an animal?
 
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Hi Buster, they probably do make such a version - I really don't know I have seen the usual M1 0W-40 being poured from conventional containers into cars at the Nurburgring though! I suspect they have many variation on the theme - I do know that the M1 15W-50 used in some V8Supercars here is/was a mildly reformulated product
 
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Track use oils usually have very low detergent levels, and are therefore not recommended for street use. Mobil 1 0w40 and 5w40 tdt are about as good as it gets for OTC 40wt motor oil. I would consider Amsoil full synthetic (not XL) for extended drains and Redline for track use. If neither apply to you, stick with Mobil 1 and sleep well.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Gilitar
It specifically calls for Mobil 1 0w40 or synthetic 5w40 if Mobil 1 0w40 is unavailable.
And the oil cap on my Volvo R recommends Castrol. That doesn't mean I use it. Recognize cross-marketing arrangements and don't be a lemming.
 Originally Posted By: Gilitar
I want an oil that I don't have to worry about the turbo cooking.
Then you should lean towards RL or another POE-heavy base oil. These will have the best thermal performance. Another oil is Motul 300v, but that is more of a track oil than RL in the weights you are looking at and is ugly expensive. Before getting all in love with M1 0w-40, be aware that it routinely shears down into the lower 30s with higher pressure turbos unless you have a large sump capacity. Terry quietly revealed its test sequence trick a number of years ago here. A very fine oil that won't hurt you, but not without its warts. Unless you're coming up north, I see no meaningful need for a 0w oil at your ambients, ever. But if you must have a 0w oil, have you considered GC? While getting long in the tooth, it is just about a 40 and does NOT shear down. Still a robust, terrific oil.
 
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