M1 0w40 in shared sump bike

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I currently have 15w40 rotella in the sump and previous fill was 10w40 m1 4T. In the morning I usually have very little time to warm up the bike (10-15 seconds of idle before i'm in gear and rolling. For about the first 2 minutes or so of my ride shifting is quite stiff/rough and my clutch drags slightly. This was less noticeable with the 10w40 but still annoying - 15w40 is even worse. Does anybody have any experience with M1 0w40 in a shared sump bike? I have 13 gallons of the stuff and really want to try in in the bike. My main concern however is how will it hold up shear wise.
 
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Originally Posted By: Brent_G
My main concern however is how will it hold up shear wise.
It'll probably get banged up fairly quickly, but since you have 13 gallons of it, when the shifting gets clunky, just dump it and put another gallon in.
 
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Not sure how your clutch will like the friction modifiers.
M1 0w-40 is not energy conserving and it has as much moly as Rotella T6, so I wouldn't expect any drama.
 

Brent_G

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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Not sure how your clutch will like the friction modifiers.
M1 0w-40 is not energy conserving and it has as much moly as Rotella T6, so I wouldn't expect any drama.
Good to know. I'm going out to change it now with 0w40 - don't know until you try I guess!
 
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On the other hand, I'm surprised your shifting is so poor with cold oil, especially in the middle of summer, but I guess it's bike-specific. I've never had an issue with 15w-50 in mine, and I run it early Spring through late Fall.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
M1 0w-40 is not energy conserving and it has as much moly as Rotella T6, so I wouldn't expect any drama.
I dont think anything over a 30wt can be energy conserving by definition.. The key spec for RTS is jaso-ma The 0w40 does not have this spec, but it might just be marketing at work.
 
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Originally Posted By: Rand
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
M1 0w-40 is not energy conserving and it has as much moly as Rotella T6, so I wouldn't expect any drama.
I dont think anything over a 30wt can be energy conserving by definition.. The key spec for RTS is jaso-ma The 0w40 does not have this spec, but it might just be marketing at work.
I suspect you're right. M1 0w40 is targeted at Euro automobiles, and Mobil already has the 4T Racing bike oils...so it's not worth their time or money to seek out JASO certs.
 
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Originally Posted By: Rand
but it might just be marketing at work.
Yup. When XOM can charge twice the price for their so called motorcycle oil, why would they give up that lucrative business by getting M1 0w-40 JASO certified?
 

Brent_G

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Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
On the other hand, I'm surprised your shifting is so poor with cold oil, especially in the middle of summer, but I guess it's bike-specific. I've never had an issue with 15w-50 in mine, and I run it early Spring through late Fall.
Its only on the first ride in the AM ( 50s starting temp) and leaving work ( 10 hours sitting). The AM ride the worse by far, after work is only a mile or so of bad shifts. I changed to 0w40 and rode a few miles - shifts are a good bit better cold and similar hot. We shall see how it holds up!
 
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i have M1 0w40 currently in the Mix Master of DOOM! it is undergoing part 1 of my testing it will be october before i can finish the test for a uoa. i will post my findings when i do. if i were to make a guess based on other m1 tests ive done it will not be in grade but wear metals will be just fine. how far out of grade how fast will be the real question. steve
 
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I remember seeing a 3000 mile UOA of M1 0w-40 in a CBR1000 on here a few months ago. If I wasn't confined to a smartphone I'd link it. Metals weren't bad but kv100 was low...somewhere in the 9s.
 
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Argh, you beat me to it QuattroPete! My memory was off but the main point stands - OK wear, lousy viscosity retention. I would expect something similar in OPs R1.
 
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