M1 0w40 in 2015 4Runner?

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13,020
Location
Indiana
I try to do OCI’s around 5-7.5k and there always seems to be excessive crud on the dipstick. This is the only engine I service that does this. Rather than doing a UOA, I thought about giving 0w40 a try and seeing what happens. My goal is better cleaning with the crud in the filter.

The truck has 75k on it. Sees a good mixture of city and highway miles. I’ve been using Magnatec D1G2.

So I can please the fact checkers, the manual calls for 0w20. 5w20 can be used if 0w20 isn’t available, BUT 0w20 MUST be used at the next oil change. You can go up a weight if the vehicle is used for towing, which it is. I take this to mean 5w30 so that’s what it’s been getting. Factory OCI is 10k. It’s my understanding that there’s been little to no change in the engine when it actually did specify 5w30 as well.
 
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203
Location
Wichita Falls, TX
Good morning!
Does this year model still have the 4.0L like the Tacoma in my signature? If so, 5w or 10w-30 will work just fine; I think the only differences mechanically is the addition of dual VVTi (intake and exhaust for you). Mine has the actuator on the intake cam only. I'm not saying I know more than the design engineers, but I'm sure the manufacturing clearances are the same. I'm in N. Texas so summer temp's can get hot, 10w-30 has not caused me any issues or gas mileage impact that I have noticed. 0w-40 should also work just fine for you in the warmer months.
 
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2,238
Location
Paradise of Florida
Any 0w40 is fine. Crud on dipstick? What filter?

My only recommendation is to stick with full synthetic oil and don't stick with one brand or spec. Could care less about D1G2 D1G1 or D1G3 or D or D2 or whatever GM spec you're using in your Toyota. Since it "recommends" 0w20 or 5w20, a step up to USA5w30, EURO/HDEO high HTHS 0w30 5w30 10w30, and eventually a 0w40 is for you to decide one at a time.

I'd change the PCV valve and replace the thermostat now.
 
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3,014
I'm a fan of M1 0-40. Before you get to whatever 40 you choose, I'd be solving the crud on the disptick issue. When you say "try" 5-7k OCI can you explain a little further? At a little over 10k a year and a 5-7k OCI something needs to be addressed. Greasymechtech offered the first thing I'd do as well (PCV).

What filter are you using? Any way to get a picture of the crud on the disptick? Any crud come out the drain? What's the underside of the oil cap look like?
 
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268
Location
California
What is the crud? Is it moisture/humidity in the crankcase causing a little milkshake? Or is it rust? It's probably not the fault of the oil but of operating conditions. In these humid winter months engines don't always get warmed up enough to burn off humidity in the crankcase. You have to watch out for too many short trips where the humidity does not burn off but accumulates. When you drive the vehicle be sure to get it completely warmed up and run it on the highway for at least 10 minutes.
 
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7,440
Location
North America
I try to do OCI’s around 5-7.5k and there always seems to be excessive crud on the dipstick.

So I can please the fact checkers, the manual calls for 0w20. 5w20 can be used if 0w20 isn’t available, BUT 0w20 MUST be used at the next oil change. You can go up a weight if the vehicle is used for towing, which it is. I take this to mean 5w30 so that’s what it’s been getting. Factory OCI is 10k. It’s my understanding that there’s been little to no change in the engine when it actually did specify 5w30 as well.
Have you owned it since new? What kind of crud on the dipstick?

We also have a 2015 4R, bought at 35k and now with almost 60. Nothing but oil on the dipstick ever. We do a lot of short trips, at least a 10k interval and get in a longer drive 2-3x per month.

After scads of research, 0w-20 is definitely for CAFE and other parts of the world can use up to 20w-50.

Currently running 5w-30. There is some 5w-40 and 15w-40(summer) on the plan in the next couple of years, and UOAs will be taken as I've always been curious about differences in wear indicators between the different oil grades. Of course I'll be posting up results when I have them.
 
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1,605
Location
Muncie, Indiana
So I can please the fact checkers, the manual calls for 0w20. 5w20 can be used if 0w20 isn’t available, BUT 0w20 MUST be used at the next oil change. You can go up a weight if the vehicle is used for towing, which it is. I take this to mean 5w30 so that’s what it’s been getting. Factory OCI is 10k. It’s my understanding that there’s been little to no change in the engine when it actually did specify 5w30 as well.
You can use 5w30 or 10w30 by Toyota's wording, if you pay close attention, they only recommend 0w20, the only Requirement is ILSAC GF-5 Multi-grade Oil, which means you can use any GF-5(now GF-6A) oil so that means, 0w20,5w20,0w30,5w30, or 10w30 will satisfy Toyota's requirements.
I take no issue to using M1 0w40 either, should suit you well, it's pretty thin for a 40 grade, and meets MB229.5 which is pretty stringent, it's pretty much an Extended Performance oil for the price of vanilla M1.
 
Messages
2,238
Location
Paradise of Florida
Toyota filter.
Any issues with crud in pleats? sludge?

OCI ~5-7.5k... full synthetic oil... engine will run forever. Don't neglect the coolant/transmission fluid differential and if 4x4 the transfer case and frontend.

I'd use a full synthetic oil filter. Cellulose media is obsolete.

If short tripping cold climates and vehicle is parked near an outlet, consider block heater, oil and ATF pan heaters.
 

dlundblad

Thread starter
Messages
13,020
Location
Indiana
Have you owned it since new? What kind of crud on the dipstick?

We also have a 2015 4R, bought at 35k and now with almost 60. Nothing but oil on the dipstick ever. We do a lot of short trips, at least a 10k interval and get in a longer drive 2-3x per month.

After scads of research, 0w-20 is definitely for CAFE and other parts of the world can use up to 20w-50.

Currently running 5w-30. There is some 5w-40 and 15w-40(summer) on the plan in the next couple of years, and UOAs will be taken as I've always been curious about differences in wear indicators between the different oil grades. Of course I'll be posting up results when I have them.

It’s my moms, but yes she’s had it since new.

The crud just looks like carbon buildup you’d see in an oil filter can. Just on the top too.. not on the whole thing.
 
Messages
51
Location
GA
currently running 5W-30 in our 4.0 VVTi (you can check my post history for my last UOA on it) and i plan to move over to 0W-40 once i run through our 30 weight stash, so that both my cars will be using it. its perfect for my operating conditions and the 4.0 couldn't care less if you throw a 40 at it..it's specced for up to a 50 weight in other markets. even running a 30 weight, we see no difference in MPG over the factory 20 weight.

can't say what the buildup might be, but one added benefit of the 0W-40 is that its high detergency might help to address some of what is causing that buildup. definitely change out that PCV while you're at it.
 
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