M1 0w30 AFE lower oil temp?

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My wife's Outback has about 360 miles on the 0w30 AFE and I'm noticing lower oil temps. This is not scientific and I'm not 100% sold on my claims, just an observation for now. I was expecting maybe a few degrees hotter when moving up to a 30 grade but the opposite has happened. The previous oils run were, FF for 800 miles, RP 0w20 til 6k, 3 in a row of Subaru 0w20 then PP 0w20 taking me up to 36k miles. All the previous oils ran 213-218F on the highway in my typical 75-110F temps. The M1 0W30 has been running 208-212F in 90-102F temps. Also un-scientifically, I'd say its a bit quieter on start up and I've dropped about .5mpg. My wife drives a very consistent commute so its pretty easy to see changes. Anyway thought I'd share these observations. No advise or 20 vs 30 debates needed today!
 
The 0w-20 and 0w-30 AFE should suck looking at the specs but the results are almost always good.
 
I figured with 6k OCI's for warranty I'll be good with just about anything. I have 2 ocis of 0w30afe and 1 each of 0w20 Magnatec and PP. We put about 20k per year on it so I'll be looking for AZ clearances come fall.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8

The 0w-20 and 0w-30 AFE should suck looking at the specs but the results are almost always good.


Which is why we shouldn't put too much stock in a 20 dollar VOA.
 
My wild speculation and guess is that there are a new generation of cleaning agents that we don't know about that are proprietary and not measured in these old school lab tests. My guess is that continues to grow throughout the industry and I hope the labs can catch up.
 
If M1 AFE oils are truly fuel efficient oils vs other oils in the same grade, then theoretically, they should have less friction which should mean lower oil temperatures.

But your oil temperature reduction is versus xw20 oils.

It would be interesting to see what happens if you run AFE 0w20.
 
It makes perfect sense. It's because the 30 wt is actually thick enough to get between metal to metal friction where the 20 WT is like water and doesn't prevent metal to metal contact. Metal+ Metal= HEAT!!
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
It makes perfect sense. It's because the 30 wt is actually thick enough to get between metal to metal friction where the 20 WT is like water and doesn't prevent metal to metal contact. Metal+ Metal= HEAT!!


No. Just no.

If there was metal to metal contact with the speed and load these components operate under everything would grind to a stop almost instantly. It doesn't take long for aluminum and steel parts to gall (micro weld) and cause run away destruction if metal on metal contact occurs.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
It makes perfect sense. It's because the 30 wt is actually thick enough to get between metal to metal friction where the 20 WT is like water and doesn't prevent metal to metal contact. Metal+ Metal= HEAT!!

Uhhh... no
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AFE 0w-20 gives my SUV the best mileage out of the oils I have tried so far. I am definitely going back and staying with AFE 0w-20.
 
It's regularly been reported here that oils containing higher amounts of group IV/V synthetics give lower oil temperatures. I'm not sure if it's indicative of anything besides the higher specific heat of those oils compared to GrI/II/III.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
It makes perfect sense. It's because the 30 wt is actually thick enough to get between metal to metal friction where the 20 WT is like water and doesn't prevent metal to metal contact. Metal+ Metal= HEAT!!


Internet tripe! Apparently you have learned nothing here at BITOG.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly
Does Subaru still use real thermometer readings in their gauges? Most modern cars don't seem to do that any more.


The Subaru has a digital oil temp gauge in the infotainment screen. It makes my wife mad when I want to drive with the oil temp displayed and she wants to see what's playing on the stereo.
 
I hope that she has functional ears to determine what is playing on the stereo... Don't use that one on her if she is anything like my wife.

Originally Posted By: RedOakRanch
Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly
Does Subaru still use real thermometer readings in their gauges? Most modern cars don't seem to do that any more.


The Subaru has a digital oil temp gauge in the infotainment screen. It makes my wife mad when I want to drive with the oil temp displayed and she wants to see what's playing on the stereo.
 
I've heard a few claims that M1 allegedly keeps engines around 6 degrees cooler than the competition but I've never seen any real data to back that up. Your thermostat has more to do with engine temperature than anything else. Maybe your Subaru engine just "likes" the AFE 0W-30 more than the oils you previously used?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
It makes perfect sense. It's because the 30 wt is actually thick enough to get between metal to metal friction where the 20 WT is like water and doesn't prevent metal to metal contact. Metal+ Metal= HEAT!!


Internet tripe! Apparently you have learned nothing here at BITOG.


What I have learned is most people will ignore any common sense, logic or real life experience and do Whatever that owners manual says and defend it with a Engineering specialist they do not know if is a young person just out of school or a veteran engineer.
With big companies taking the cheapest labor, I am going with newbies who count beans and say Hey, we can lower our fuel mileage by going with a lighter oil. When I see the same engines in other countries that don't have Cafe go with lighter motor oils, I ll believe it. Until then I am going to believe the durability of the engines make the lightweight oil possible but not necessarily the best choice since I ve seen 15w40 perform perfectly well in below 0 weather in gas engines with my own eyes.
 
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