My 2007 3.8L V 6 Kia Sedona is now out of warranty . Previously I was running PP 5W20 from WM but looking to try something else since the PP change to Pure Plus technology . I'm not too keen on Castrol or regular M1 5W20 / 5W30 and undecided on QSUD 5W20 / 5W30 ... The M1 AFE 0W20 & 0W30 get good reviews yet as most know Hyundai / Kia only spec 5W20 as preferred and 5W30 as acceptable ... What specifically would POTENTIALLY happen using M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine ? Also if you were to use a M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine - would you use a 0W20 or 0W30 (engine has 109K miles now on it) ? Thanks in advance ...WM has PLENTY of M1 AFE 0W20 / 0W30 on the shelf and I want to give it an honest look !
M1 0W20 / 0W30 Question Specific To Hyundai / Kia
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If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
I assume he means "nothing to lose", and I would agree. Nothing to lose by using the 0W20/0W30.
I would probably use 0W20 AFE or QSUD. I can't think of a good reason to step up to a 30wt for that car, it's not DI or anything, right?
I would probably use 0W20 AFE or QSUD. I can't think of a good reason to step up to a 30wt for that car, it's not DI or anything, right?
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Georgia isn't cold like Alaska..
You won't notice much difference when comparing the M1 0w30 to 0w20, or to any of the synth 5w 20or30s.
You won't notice much difference when comparing the M1 0w30 to 0w20, or to any of the synth 5w 20or30s.
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I assume he means "nothing to lose", and I would agree. Nothing to lose by using the 0W20/0W30.
Sorry...yes! Nothing to lose. I'd use the 30 because Hyundai allows for it and you really don't lose much or any fuel economy compared with 20. You often gain a quieter engine with less overall noise. Heck, both of our cars allow for 5W-20 only, but I use 5W-30 in both.
I assume he means "nothing to lose", and I would agree. Nothing to lose by using the 0W20/0W30.
Sorry...yes! Nothing to lose. I'd use the 30 because Hyundai allows for it and you really don't lose much or any fuel economy compared with 20. You often gain a quieter engine with less overall noise. Heck, both of our cars allow for 5W-20 only, but I use 5W-30 in both.
+1. I'd pick a good synthetic like M1 or PP in the 5w30 flavor.
I would use 0w30 if it has a timing chain (and the biggest most gpm oil filter avail for it.if it has a timing belt?whatever hyundai say is fine
Those two corp had various issue .like hyundai not even being close to adertised fuel economy.customer recieved money because of this.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn.
OP- Why no pureplus? - don't want Qatar stuff?
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn.
OP- Why no pureplus? - don't want Qatar stuff?
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn.
Afraid you've got that backwards.
It's the 0W oils that are higher performing.
5W-20 synthetics don't offer much over a 5W-20 dino and no manufacturer specifies a 5W-20 syn' just 0W-20.
To the OP's question. Yes M1 0W-20 would be a fine choice (not their 0W-30) as it's specified for 5W-20 applications.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn.
Afraid you've got that backwards.
It's the 0W oils that are higher performing.
5W-20 synthetics don't offer much over a 5W-20 dino and no manufacturer specifies a 5W-20 syn' just 0W-20.
To the OP's question. Yes M1 0W-20 would be a fine choice (not their 0W-30) as it's specified for 5W-20 applications.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
My 2007 3.8L V 6 Kia Sedona is now out of warranty . Previously I was running PP 5W20 from WM but looking to try something else since the PP change to Pure Plus technology . I'm not too keen on Castrol or regular M1 5W20 / 5W30 and undecided on QSUD 5W20 / 5W30 ... The M1 AFE 0W20 & 0W30 get good reviews yet as most know Hyundai / Kia only spec 5W20 as preferred and 5W30 as acceptable ... What specifically would POTENTIALLY happen using M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine ? Also if you were to use a M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine - would you use a 0W20 or 0W30 (engine has 109K miles now on it) ? Thanks in advance ...WM has PLENTY of M1 AFE 0W20 / 0W30 on the shelf and I want to give it an honest look !
I, too have a Sedona with the 3.8L motor. I'm currently running M1 AFE 0w30, and I have run 0w20 in the past as well. Next up, TGMO 0w20
I don't believe I've ever run 5w anything in this van, always 0wxx.
My 2007 3.8L V 6 Kia Sedona is now out of warranty . Previously I was running PP 5W20 from WM but looking to try something else since the PP change to Pure Plus technology . I'm not too keen on Castrol or regular M1 5W20 / 5W30 and undecided on QSUD 5W20 / 5W30 ... The M1 AFE 0W20 & 0W30 get good reviews yet as most know Hyundai / Kia only spec 5W20 as preferred and 5W30 as acceptable ... What specifically would POTENTIALLY happen using M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine ? Also if you were to use a M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine - would you use a 0W20 or 0W30 (engine has 109K miles now on it) ? Thanks in advance ...WM has PLENTY of M1 AFE 0W20 / 0W30 on the shelf and I want to give it an honest look !
I, too have a Sedona with the 3.8L motor. I'm currently running M1 AFE 0w30, and I have run 0w20 in the past as well. Next up, TGMO 0w20
To reply : I'm not sure yet Pennzoil Pure Plus is "all that" just yet (NOAK) ... '07 Sedona engine is not DI , it does has a timing chain and has "5W20" stamped on the oil fill hole plug . *So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
To even start to understand the differences between motor oil grades you need to look to the underlying viscosity spec's.
In this case we are still just talking about a 20 grade oil.
M1 AFE 0W-20 will be somewhat lighter on start-up vs a 5W-20 even on a hot summer day but it also has a higher HTHSV of 2.7cP vs a typical 5W-20 (dino) of 2.6cP.
But in practice there really isn't much of a difference so your question, "what's the worse that could happen?" is really reading way to much into the small differences between the two grades. Nothing of course will happen.
So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
To even start to understand the differences between motor oil grades you need to look to the underlying viscosity spec's.
In this case we are still just talking about a 20 grade oil.
M1 AFE 0W-20 will be somewhat lighter on start-up vs a 5W-20 even on a hot summer day but it also has a higher HTHSV of 2.7cP vs a typical 5W-20 (dino) of 2.6cP.
But in practice there really isn't much of a difference so your question, "what's the worse that could happen?" is really reading way to much into the small differences between the two grades. Nothing of course will happen.
How come 100 f viscosity of oil is often lower for a 10w30 then a 5w30 and often get better hths (exemple mobil1 ep)
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Originally Posted By: yvon_la
How come 100 f viscosity of oil is often lower for a 10w30 then a 5w30 and often get better hths (exemple mobil1 ep)
Less VII's/less shear.
How come 100 f viscosity of oil is often lower for a 10w30 then a 5w30 and often get better hths (exemple mobil1 ep)
Less VII's/less shear.
I like that oil.it wiggle where its need yet is name 10w30
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
To reply : I'm not sure yet Pennzoil Pure Plus is "all that" just yet (NOAK) ... '07 Sedona engine is not DI , it does has a timing chain and has "5W20" stamped on the oil fill hole plug . *So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
...and even if it were d.i., Kia/Hyundai have not had any wide scale timing-chain issues that I know of. I used to have this concern as well. All the oils mentioned should serve you well.
To reply : I'm not sure yet Pennzoil Pure Plus is "all that" just yet (NOAK) ... '07 Sedona engine is not DI , it does has a timing chain and has "5W20" stamped on the oil fill hole plug . *So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
...and even if it were d.i., Kia/Hyundai have not had any wide scale timing-chain issues that I know of. I used to have this concern as well. All the oils mentioned should serve you well.
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