M1 0W20 / 0W30 Question Specific To Hyundai / Kia

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My 2007 3.8L V 6 Kia Sedona is now out of warranty . Previously I was running PP 5W20 from WM but looking to try something else since the PP change to Pure Plus technology . I'm not too keen on Castrol or regular M1 5W20 / 5W30 and undecided on QSUD 5W20 / 5W30 ... The M1 AFE 0W20 & 0W30 get good reviews yet as most know Hyundai / Kia only spec 5W20 as preferred and 5W30 as acceptable ... What specifically would POTENTIALLY happen using M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine ? Also if you were to use a M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine - would you use a 0W20 or 0W30 (engine has 109K miles now on it) ? Thanks in advance ...WM has PLENTY of M1 AFE 0W20 / 0W30 on the shelf and I want to give it an honest look !
 
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If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
 
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I assume he means "nothing to lose", and I would agree. Nothing to lose by using the 0W20/0W30. I would probably use 0W20 AFE or QSUD. I can't think of a good reason to step up to a 30wt for that car, it's not DI or anything, right?
 
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Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I assume he means "nothing to lose", and I would agree. Nothing to lose by using the 0W20/0W30.
Sorry...yes! Nothing to lose. I'd use the 30 because Hyundai allows for it and you really don't lose much or any fuel economy compared with 20. You often gain a quieter engine with less overall noise. Heck, both of our cars allow for 5W-20 only, but I use 5W-30 in both.
 
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I would use 0w30 if it has a timing chain (and the biggest most gpm oil filter avail for it.if it has a timing belt?whatever hyundai say is fine
 
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Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn. OP- Why no pureplus? - don't want Qatar stuff?
 
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Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
If you're paying for synthetic oil anyway, you have absolutely nothing to use by using a 0W grade oil. I would use the 0W-30 and run it for another 100k miles.
5w20 are generally higher performing, cleaner running and MUCH less volatile. So THERE ARE COMPROMISES for 0W - especially if its not a group iv/v true syn.
Afraid you've got that backwards. It's the 0W oils that are higher performing. 5W-20 synthetics don't offer much over a 5W-20 dino and no manufacturer specifies a 5W-20 syn' just 0W-20. To the OP's question. Yes M1 0W-20 would be a fine choice (not their 0W-30) as it's specified for 5W-20 applications.
 
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Rochester, MI, US, World
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
My 2007 3.8L V 6 Kia Sedona is now out of warranty . Previously I was running PP 5W20 from WM but looking to try something else since the PP change to Pure Plus technology . I'm not too keen on Castrol or regular M1 5W20 / 5W30 and undecided on QSUD 5W20 / 5W30 ... The M1 AFE 0W20 & 0W30 get good reviews yet as most know Hyundai / Kia only spec 5W20 as preferred and 5W30 as acceptable ... What specifically would POTENTIALLY happen using M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine ? Also if you were to use a M1 AFE 0W oil in that engine - would you use a 0W20 or 0W30 (engine has 109K miles now on it) ? Thanks in advance ...WM has PLENTY of M1 AFE 0W20 / 0W30 on the shelf and I want to give it an honest look !
I, too have a Sedona with the 3.8L motor. I'm currently running M1 AFE 0w30, and I have run 0w20 in the past as well. Next up, TGMO 0w20 smile I don't believe I've ever run 5w anything in this van, always 0wxx.
 
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I would have no problem using M1 0w20 in your van if it calls for a 5w20. M1 guarantees 0w20 where 5w20 is called for.
 

ChrisD46

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To reply : I'm not sure yet Pennzoil Pure Plus is "all that" just yet (NOAK) ... '07 Sedona engine is not DI , it does has a timing chain and has "5W20" stamped on the oil fill hole plug . *So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
 
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
To even start to understand the differences between motor oil grades you need to look to the underlying viscosity spec's. In this case we are still just talking about a 20 grade oil. M1 AFE 0W-20 will be somewhat lighter on start-up vs a 5W-20 even on a hot summer day but it also has a higher HTHSV of 2.7cP vs a typical 5W-20 (dino) of 2.6cP. But in practice there really isn't much of a difference so your question, "what's the worse that could happen?" is really reading way to much into the small differences between the two grades. Nothing of course will happen.
 

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Originally Posted By: yvon_la
How come 100 f viscosity of oil is often lower for a 10w30 then a 5w30 and often get better hths (exemple mobil1 ep)
Less VII's/less shear.
 
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Kendall, FL
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
To reply : I'm not sure yet Pennzoil Pure Plus is "all that" just yet (NOAK) ... '07 Sedona engine is not DI , it does has a timing chain and has "5W20" stamped on the oil fill hole plug . *So what's the worst that could happen if I ran M1 AFE 0W20 in that engine OR even my '10 Hyundai Elantra non DI 4 banger (which also states 5W20) ? Even though I live in GA. one would think if all else is equal - start up wear is always less with 0W than 5W correct ?
...and even if it were d.i., Kia/Hyundai have not had any wide scale timing-chain issues that I know of. I used to have this concern as well. All the oils mentioned should serve you well.
 
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