M1 0W-40 SN, ~3k OCI, Kia Optima SX 2.0T-GDI

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Alright same model car as Dfrost that just posted M1 5w-30 UOA yesterday, but with M1 0W-40 SN. I'm using the OEM oil filter. Use a K&N drop-in panel air filter. My daily driving consists of the occasional ~5 min max ride from my GF's to mine, 40 min 50/50 ride to work, same back home, then again some local "city"/rural driving at night.

In my eyes its about what I was expecting from a turbo that runs ~ 17.4 psi peak boost and uses direct injection. Some fuel dilution and some shearing. I went with M1 0W-40 with those two factors in mind, hoping it would stay around the 5w-30 mark, but while not being too thick.

As dfrost posted in his thread, the manual oil spec says:

Recommendation: 5W-30 ACEA A5
API: SL or SM or above
ILSAC: GF3, GF4 or above
ACEA: A3 or A5
SAE viscosity: Refer to the recommended SAE viscosity number, which shows "5W-30 or 5W-40"

FYI I have M1 0w-40 in it again, planning on going the recommended 5k OCI now that i've seen the figures..

What's your opinion guys? How is the wear? Should I be concerned?

FWIW, I was thinking about giving PU 5w-40 a shot, or Redline 5w-30 maybe... Should I change it up?

uoa20111227wvospec.jpg


uoa201232wvospec.jpg
 
This oil looks like a good match for the turbo + GDI, if the intent is to stay in the SAE 30 viscosity range.

On the other hand, to my knowledge, M1 0w-40 is a long life oil held in high regard. I'd like to see it run for 10k miles in this application.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Looks about par for the course. This oil should do just fine at the recommended 5K mile intervals.


I assuming little words from you is a good thing? lol (fingers crossed)

How are the wear figures in your opinion?

Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
This oil looks like a good match for the turbo + GDI, if the intent is to stay in the SAE 30 viscosity range.

On the other hand, to my knowledge, M1 0w-40 is a long life oil held in high regard. I'd like to see it run for 10k miles in this application.
wink.gif



Haha I hear you, but I already gave Kia a slight edge on warranty "concerns" by running "0w". I don't think I need to put my 100k powertrain warranty under more stress by doubling the OCI..not yet
smile.gif


My intent def. is to run an oil that keeps my turbo protected by not shearing and diluting below a -30. I don't think I need a thicker 5w-40...Does anybody? I'm not running auto-x or anything, just a highway warrior at times.
 
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima
How are the wear figures in your opinion?

Looks perfectly fine to me, especially that your engine is still breaking in.
 
I like your Red Line 5w30 option. It's high grp 5 content gives you a quicker spool on the turbo. It has an ultra low NOACK w/ very low volitization which is extremely important in preventing intake valve deposits (ask saaber1 for pics between the oil you used vs Red Line as he has some very convincing ones). The 5w30 has the HTHS of a 40 weight oil so even w/ fuel dilution you'll be sitting pretty. The esters are also reported to adhere to the metals better & longer.

If you have another vehicle you buy oil for you can do as I do & use those receipts for this car for warranty purposes. But trust me, you will feel the difference of the quicker spooling turbo straight away; and the inherent properties of all the grp 5 basestocks to handle extreme heat will give your hot turbo a big smile. For those reasons it's great but the clencher for me is reducing intake valve deposits dramatically which will preserve power & mpg's, fouling plugs, etc.

Motul 300v, Royal Purple XPR, AMSOIL Dominator are some other high grp 5 content oils that should do the same.

.
 
The 330F flashpoint seems a little worrisome. Is the dilution directly responsible? Seems the 0w40 is holding out but I wouldn't go over 5k without an interim sample. Redline seems to be a nice alternative but it comes down to whether it's worth the extra expense....
 
Fuel dilution and silicon stand out to me. Silicon is likely due to K&N. If you are really so concerned about warranty remember that Kia/Hyundai are tough on compliance issues. Otherwise excellent report.

This engine needs longer trips and higher speeds to help burn off that fuel dilution. Get on it!
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
I like your Red Line 5w30 option. It's high grp 5 content gives you a quicker spool on the turbo. It has an ultra low NOACK w/ very low volitization which is extremely important in preventing intake valve deposits (ask saaber1 for pics between the oil you used vs Red Line as he has some very convincing ones). The 5w30 has the HTHS of a 40 weight oil so even w/ fuel dilution you'll be sitting pretty. The esters are also reported to adhere to the metals better & longer.

If you have another vehicle you buy oil for you can do as I do & use those receipts for this car for warranty purposes. But trust me, you will feel the difference of the quicker spooling turbo straight away; and the inherent properties of all the grp 5 basestocks to handle extreme heat will give your hot turbo a big smile. For those reasons it's great but the clencher for me is reducing intake valve deposits dramatically which will preserve power & mpg's, fouling plugs, etc.

Motul 300v, Royal Purple XPR, AMSOIL Dominator are some other high grp 5 content oils that should do the same.

.


Thanks for the post! The bolded is the main hesitance for me to try a thinner oil. M1 0w-40 has the same HTHS (3.8) as RL 5w-30, and I've thinned from a 13.5 to ~ 11 cST at 100C. Redline starts at 10.6, so yea i'll spool faster (td04-19t turbo spools crazy fast already anyway..) but i'm worried I'll drop down to 5w-20 viscosity with fuel dilution. Now I realize RL's formula is less likely of an oil to thin/shear than m1 0w-40, but still.

As far as deposits, I am running catch cans and M1 0w-40 NOACK is ~8-9%. Is dropping it to 6% with RL THAT much of a difference?


Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Fuel dilution and silicon stand out to me. Silicon is likely due to K&N. If you are really so concerned about warranty remember that Kia/Hyundai are tough on compliance issues. Otherwise excellent report.

This engine needs longer trips and higher speeds to help burn off that fuel dilution. Get on it!


haha, i know I havent had too many 1hr+ trips or much high speed hwys around here without 50+ cops /hills... Its seen 120 mph pretty easily a few times..

based on a VOA, silicon starts around 7. Is testing at 14 after 3.5k miles that bad? Voa-> M1 0W-40 SN VOA
 
Originally Posted By: RedHotOptima
As far as deposits, I am running catch cans and M1 0w-40 NOACK is ~8-9%. Is dropping it to 6% with RL THAT much of a difference?

based on a VOA, silicon starts around 7. Is testing at 14 after 3.5k miles that bad?


?

self bump..
 
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