M1 0W-40 or Red Line 5W-30 in a Porsche Cayenne Turbo?

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Hmm...I'm spending WAY too much time here. Found you guys just the other day. I have an '04 Porsche Cayenne Turbo. It's equipped with the 4.5L twin-turbod V8. Porsche recommends M1 for all its cars and for the C-T, 0W-40 for ambient temps below -13dF/-24dC and 0W-40 or 5W-40 or 5W-50 for ambient temps above -13dF/-25dC. Based on the many notes I’ve read, I’m now thinking there may be a better way than just following Porsche’s recommendation. I believe strongly in changing oil and filters in new engines the same way the Democrats vote in Cook county--early and often. I drained the factory-filled M1 0W-40 and the filter at 33 miles, filled with dead-dino (Mobil) 5W-30, and drained and refilled again at about 300 miles. Followed the break-in recommendations here http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm for the first 200 or so miles. At about 1900 miles refilled with M1 0W-40. Haven’t changed again thru about 9500 miles. Altho Porsche recommends changing oil and filter every 20,000 miles, I’m now thinking about changing twice a year and using a slightly less-thin oil for summer. If I stay with M1, they’d be the 0W-40 for the cool season (I live in Phoenix and we don’t have winter, just 6 months of summer and 3 each of spring and fall) and whichever of the 5W-nns I can find for the summer six months. I’ve used and loved Red Line gear and transmission lubes for decades and would consider their engine oil, but they have ‘only’ a 5W-30 in the ranges I could use. Anyone have an opinion here? Should I consider something other than M1 and Red Line? In your responses, pls include URLs for the people like me who don't know what the undefined acronyms mean. --------------------------- Speaking of undefined acronyms, what’s the ‘GC’ that I see frequently here?
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Jeffrey Behr: Speaking of undefined acronyms, what’s the ‘GC’ that I see frequently here?
GC = German Castrol. What about Redline 10W-30 or 10W-40? [ December 24, 2003, 08:09 PM: Message edited by: Jakebrake ]
 
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Hmmm...a turbo, and Phoenix? I would run Mobil 1 15W50 year round, and not worry about it. It is available almost every where, and is probably Mobils best oil, second only to Mobil Delvac 1 5W40, which is an excellent alternative as well...(if you can handle the fact that the oil is designed for diesel tractors...) [Big Grin]
 

Patman

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What about Redline 5w40? (yes, they do make this viscosity) It's very shear stable, and would be a very nice match for that turbo engine.
 
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Patman I have to ask is you entire house wired for internet??? You always beat me to the punch line!!! I too would recomend that you try Redline 5W40. I am currently useing it in a 16 valve variable valve timeing and lift high rev 4 cylinder. I am liveing in Michigan so every day for almost half the year it is in a cold soaked enviroment! I have had no problems at all with cold start issues. Last I checked I belive the 5W40 from Redline has a HT/HS of 4.7 so it should do nicely!
 
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Here is what I would do. Wait another 3 months and use Mobil 1 SUV oil which is a 5w-40 or use the new Mobil 1 R racing oil 0w-30. Delvac 1 would be another great choice. Redline 5w-40 would actually be a phenomenal choice if you want to order the oil. If you stick with a 30wt oil, I'd use Amsoil 10w-30 ATM in this engine as well. Lots of choices. [Wink] [ December 24, 2003, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Jeffrey Behr: I believe strongly in changing oil and filters in new engines the same way the Democrats vote in Cook county--early and often.
LOL [LOL!] Being from the Chicago area, I truly appreciate this! Sad part is, it's true. Very nice vehicle! I feel to keep it tip-top shape M1 15w-50, Delvac 15w-40 or Amsoil 10w-40. Anyone of these can stand the abusive heat and withstand long OCI's. [ December 24, 2003, 11:01 PM: Message edited by: ToyotaNSaturn ]
 

Jeffrey Behr

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quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn: [QUOTE] Very nice vehicle! I feel to keep it tip-top shape M1 15w-50, Delvac 15w-40 or Amsoil 10w-40. Anyone of these can stand the abusive heat and withstand long OCI's.
Thank you; I love it. T'N'S, you're the first with an undefined acronym. What's OCI?
 
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I drained the factory-filled M1 0W-40 and the filter at 33 miles, filled with dead-dino (Mobil) 5W-30, and drained and refilled again at about 300 miles.
Why exactly did you use 5W-30 in there? It doesn't meet the required specs, and it isn't even an A3-rated oil. I think you should have left the OEM fill in for at least 1000k miles. Those motors are made very well and with very narrow tolerances. There's not a whole lot of wear form brak-in and whatever particles do rub off will be caught by the oil filter.
 

Jeffrey Behr

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quote:
Originally posted by moribundman: Why exactly did you use 5W-30 in there? It doesn't meet the required specs, and it isn't even an A3-rated oil. I think you should have left the OEM fill in for at least 1000k miles. Those motors are made very well and with very narrow tolerances. There's not a whole lot of wear form brak-in and whatever particles do rub off will be caught by the oil filter. [/QB]
The 5W-30 was dead-dino break-in oil. The particles I'm concerned about in a new engines are those resulting from the casting and machining processes that simply can't be washed out 100% no matter how hard anyone tries. The full-flow (FF) filter misses everything smaller than around 25 microns. I don't want those particles being circulated by my oil and there's certainly a greater amount of it when the engine is new. And TYVM, JohnB, for the definition.
 

Jeffrey Behr

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quote:
Originally posted by TSoA: GC is Porsche-approved. I'd use the M1 in order not to void your warranty.
Using a brand of engineoil other than M1 doesn't void the warranty. Using oils that don't meet Porsche's viscosity guidelines MIGHT void the warranty on parts to be lubricated by that oil. Interestingly, neither my Owner's nor Maintenance manuals specify an API, ILSAC, or ACEA classification minimum.
 
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I admire an iconoclast with the strength of their convictions. That was a gutsy call doing the break-in per the link and first 2k with dino 5W30 on a C-T.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by ex_MGB: I admire an iconoclast with the strength of their convictions. That was a gutsy call doing the break-in per the link and first 2k with dino 5W30 on a C-T.
Given how hot a turbo can run, I'd say there's a good chance he's got some coking on his turbo bearings from running a conventional 5w30 for 2000 miles. There is no way I'd put a conventional 5w30 in any turbocharged vehicle I owned, let alone a Porsche! You call it gutsy. I'd call it something else. [Wink]
 
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Interesting topic. One thing that I have learned on this site is that Syn oil is not "slicker" or more "slippery" than dino. Therefore, I am now wondering why so many people are anti-syn for break-in. Another thing that I have learned here is that many people consider Redline an excellent oil for turbos.
 
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Use the recommended oil ,can't go wrong. Also do a trans and driveline oil change now!!! using a syn oil of your choice. Do shorter oil change intervals. IMO . [ December 25, 2003, 03:06 PM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
 
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Wow...I just read the break-in tips on the page linked in Jeff's original post in this thread. If he followed those tips and used 5w30 conventional oil, I'm now 99.9% sure the bearings in his turbo are coked. I'd be willing to bet he'll be replacing one or both turbos before this engine reaches 50,000 miles. What a shame...
 
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Fairfield County, CT
Yup, I wouldn't trust some random site on the internet over Porsche's recommendations. I'm sure Porsche designed this vehicle with synthetic oil in mind, much like the Corvette. (As I understand, Chevrolet eliminated the oil coolers when Mobil 1 became the specified oil) In the Porsche, twin turbos means the oil gets REAL hot, a situation synthetic is much better equipped to handle, over conventional. And Mobil's dino oil isn't a particularly good choice!
 
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