M1 0W-40 or M1 R 0W-30, help please!

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Jan 21, 2003
Elizabeth City NC
Why? [Confused] You show excellent results with the M1 0w-20 and Pureone for a 5000 mile change. I would go 6000 miles with the 0w20. You car likes it and gets excellent results with it. I think 9000 miles is too long for about any oil in my humble opinion.
I would go with the regular M1 and a PureOne oil filter. I would do a oil analysis at 9,000 miles to conferm that 9K is good. ed hayes
Originally posted by Schmoe: For 9K, I'd go with the "regular" M1. From what I've been reading, the R version is not designed for extended drains, hence the low HTHS, but for actual racing type of conditions that get changed fairly often.
I totaly agree with this post. [Cheers!]
Guys M1 0W-20 is not good oil for this aplication..Please take a look at the respective wear rates per 1000 miles between the oils I used so far: OIL M1/M1/GC/M1 VIS 5W-30/10W-30/0W-30/0W-20 ALUM 0.7/0.75/0.57/0.8 CHRO 0.2/0.11/0.11/0.2 IRON 3.3/2.58/2.39/2.4 COPP 0.7/0.86/0.57/1 LEAD 2.3/1.40/1.36/2.2
Well, between the two choices you've listed, I'd pick the 0W-40. It definitely has the Long Life credentials to go <i>at least</i> 9,000 miles. But I agree with <b>Patman</b>: since GC's shown such favorable results, why not use that again? I'd think it would easily go 9,000 miles as well.
Patman I agree that GC was the best of the tested bunch, however higher viscosity of M1 0W-40 makes me think that I will be able to bring the wear(lead) down even further. The reason why I asked about M1 R is it's strong additive pack along with highest TBN(13.5 according to VOA) number of M1 lineup which should make it suitable for long drain? http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006731#000000 so the question really boils down to what is more important in reducing wear, in my case we are talking about bearing wear, viscosity(HTHS) or additives such as zinc and others?
Bearing wear is usually related to viscosity. This can be seen in the LS1 to some degree which is why Patman and others call for a thick 30wt or 40wt oil for the LS1. I'd try GC or Amsoil's 5w-40 AFL. M1R IMO is for people that race on weekends and want the most power and protection for 1/4 mile runs or road racing. It's not the most ideal choice for daily drivers IMO.
Don't overly scrutinize this decision too much or you'll go crazy (Yes, many of us on BiTOG have been to this "place" before)! You're tending to your engines lubrication needs better than 99% of the other people out there. The car will rot out from underneath you before the engine dies because you chose one oil over another. [ June 02, 2004, 06:45 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
I don't think either of the formulations you listed are especially good choices in this application.... The HT/HS viscosity of the M-1R, 0w-30 is only about 3.0 Cp, and I'd bet the farm that the 0w-40 shears like crazy in this DOHC, high rpm engine. I wouldn't expect ANY improvement over the M1, 10w-30 from either of these formulations in terms of bearing wear - in fact, it could well go up. I suspect you would reduce the iron wear by 10%-20% with the M-1R, simply due to the very high level of ZDDP. The final thing to note is that you now have a fully worn in engine. So if you went back to the M1, 10w-30,the wear rates would drop from when you ran it the last time. I think the M1, 10w-30 is their best long drain oil for most newer engines, since it has the most stable viscosity. If you really want to try something different, I'd run the Redline 5w-30/10w-30 a couple of times and test the 2nd batch. I believe you'd see less iron wear and less oxidative thickening than with the Mobil 1. However bearing wear would probably go up slightly, depending on the metallurgy of these bearings.
ZOOMZOOM, I agree with too slick! While I would love to see M1R tested I do not think it would do much for you. I suspect that M1R would produce results simalar to M1 0W20 but with lower iron levels! If you wanted to stick with Mobil products you do have a few more choices. You can try M1 SUV 5W40 or you could try a 50/50 blend of 15W50 and M1R. The 50/50 blend would give you more robust additive package and more viscosity, higher HTHS etc.... Usualy as viscosity goes up lead comes down to a point. Your iron was higher then your lead and the engine was still young so I would not worry too much at this point.
As a Mobil 1R user, I can highly recommend it! My UOA reflected significantly lower wear rates vs. Mobil 1 10W-30. You do NOT need a 40W churning around in your engine robbing horsepower, creating heat. I am still amazed at the performance differential afforded with the Mobil 1R. I was NOT looking for/expecting anything but have achieved both a perceptable performance improvement and increased fuel mileage with the Mobil 1R... Significant........ Well worth the tarif IMHO.. George Morrison
I'm in the process of Auto-RXing my engine and I need to decide which oil to put in for the hot DC summer. I need oil that will last 9K miles and will keep my bearings happy since the car sees WOT and 7000RPM pretty often. I have done several UOA with different oils. http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001550 My question is this: which of these two oils will give me a better protection that can last 9K miles? M1 0W-40 is thicker and has higher HTHS on the other side M1 R is thinner and has much stronger additive package in addition to strong TBN of 13.5?.. So what gives? [ June 02, 2004, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: zoomzoom ]
For 9K, I'd go with the "regular" M1. From what I've been reading, the R version is not designed for extended drains, hence the low HTHS, but for actual racing type of conditions that get changed fairly often.
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