M1 0w-40 got hot again at the track so tried some motul 300v 10w-40 in my Z06

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Here at VIR in VA running with Viperdays. First session out with M1 0w-40 and sure enough got over 300 in 15 mins again. Last track event a sebring it did the same. Oil pressure at idle and 300 was 29psi at sebring. This time when over 300 the oil pressure was only freakin 24psi.

So saw the Motul rep here and told him what the car is doing. He had some 10w-40 (nothing in a 30 weight) Stuff is $$$, retail is $26 for a 2 liter can. So he cut me a deal and did 1 can free when I bought 3 cans. Still over $9 a liter. Nobody had any redline 5w-30 or I would of went with that.

So changed the oil and filter. Motul has a funny smell. Almost a grape scent to it.

Drove the next session and got over 300 again but not as fast it seemed. But the oil pressure did not go below 27psi when over 300 so that was good. I guess this will hold up better to the heat, then the M1 0w-40.

Looks like I will be installing an oil cooler over the winter.
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The motul guy said since this is a racing oil and not an extended drain, he said no longer then 4-5k miles.
 
wish I could of found some here at the track today. Since its a viper event, all most of the vendors carry is 50 weight.

thanks for your thoughts
 
Why not go with a 50 weight? If it's getting that hot it might do the trick. You might also wanna try M1 T&SUV, since it's designed for diesels it might hold up to the heat better.
 
Looks like I will be installing an oil cooler over the winter.

GM should of made an oil cooler standard equipment on the Z06
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and optional on the 'regular' Vette. I know GM wanted to save $$$$$, but some Corvette owners do like to race their car every once in a while. Ever since GM put Mobil 1 in the LT1 Corvette, they no longer offer this option.
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It would only cost GM an extra $100.....on a $50,000 car.
 
Maybe it doesn't have the sort of additives to keep the oil clean that regular oil does.
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The Z06 really should have an oil cooler. I mean my mear 230 hp saab has one, and a pretty beefy one at that. GM never ceases to amaze me with their stupidity, they just don't get it.
 
I would find a RL distributor and use it. The POE basestock in RL us ideal for this situation. This is RL's calling.
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quote:

Originally posted by silverz06vette:
Looks like I will be installing an oil cooler over the winter.

That's your best solution. Then you can go back to $5/qt oil and stop staring at your oil temps and concentrate on racing.
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I had M1 0w-40 fail me in a Volvo 850 Turbo. On two trips between San Diego and Phoenix on 110F+ days the combination of oil temp rise and falling oil pressure blocked the A/C, a built in switch to save the engine from people like me. I switched back to RL 10w-40 and trips were not problem, anymore. I don't think M1 0w-40 is up to the job when things get tough. I know this isn't racing, but it hot, 80+ speeds, mountains, head winds, and a black station wagon with the A/C of full blast. The trips are usually out and back in one day, 800 miles.
 
i would still get an oil cooler and run a 10w-50 or 15w-50 for a race during the summer months. There is a reason why so many use an 10w/15w-50 syn oil in racing (i know quite a few of the smaller displacement engines do use like a 5w-30 etc.)?
 
. There is a reason why so many use an 10w/15w-50 syn oil in racing (i know quite a few of the smaller displacement engines do use like a 5w-30 etc.)? [/QB][/QUOTE]
Unless there is a problem with hot oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
I would run RL 10w-30 in this car. This car begs for Redline.

Given his oil temps, 5w40 would be much better. Even once he installs the oil cooler, he'll still probably see 270F temps on the road course. So the 5w40 is the much better choice.
 
Your right the 5w-40 might be better. However, with RL you can go one grade lower due to it's excellent HT/HS. A thinner oil also might reduce temps a bit better. It would be a good comparison for sure.
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I agree, Buster. The trial of a 30-wt. would be very instructive as both oils tried thus far are 40-wts. I wonder what a 30-wt would do to oil temps?
 
With an accurate temp gauge, I would definitely try other weights of oil.
And, it would be great to test the before/after effects of those oil filter cool collars.
Supposedly, oil filter cool collars can drop running oil temp by 20 degrees if there is reasonable airflow around the filter.
 
I like the idea of the RL 10w40. With the cooler installed, a trail with M1 EP 10w40 would be worth a shot if it'll save some scratch. If the temps stay below 250F, a trial with RL 10w30 may be worth investigating.
 
Once he installs a cooler I think RL 5W40 would work great for year round use. For hard track days and no cooler I think RL 10W40 would be a better fit!At 300°F a 10W40 is not taht thick at all. THe up side is that RL 10W40 has an great and I mean great HTHS! THe RL 5W40 uses a few VII's so I would not want to track that oil without a cooler because it is not going to be as shear stable as their 10W40! Both oils have a lot of esters and AW/FM additives in them!

The temp. is a function of usage and lack of an oil cooler. The oil pressure and wear reflect how these oils are responding to this harsh environment!

I would not go any thicker then RL 10W40. My reason is that until your up to operateing temp. hammering on a high performance engine with cold thick oil will initialy spike bearing wear so a 20W50 would be out ofthe question unless youwere going to be running for long time frames like 100,200,300 lap events etc.... If you go to thin like a 5W30 or 10W30 as the tempature climbs and the oil thins out valvetrain wear and ring wear go up exponetialy with temp. So for someone getting on a track for 20-30 minutes at a time I think something like Redline 10W40 would be the ideal for track use and the 5W40 for daily driveing. Once a cooler is installed we could see how the 5W40 handles the heat but not until then!

Just my $.02

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