Triton, since you've confirmed your F150 has been back spec'd for the 5W-20 grade, it's a no-brainer choice of the Mobil 0W oils to use AFE 0W-20 as it is intended for 5W-20 applications.
M1 0w-30, or M1 0w-20 mixed with M1 0w-40?
- Thread starter Triton_330
- Start date
- Status
Triton
If you want the best protection try oil. It's some pretty amazing stuff. If you're having a problem understanding that a 20 grade will keep that modular alive I suggest a google search and see the millions of vehicles using it without any harm done.
In fact the opposite is true. Vehicles are lasting longer than ever using a 20 grade.
How different do you really think a 20 grade and 30 grade are anyways.
If you want the best protection try oil. It's some pretty amazing stuff. If you're having a problem understanding that a 20 grade will keep that modular alive I suggest a google search and see the millions of vehicles using it without any harm done.
In fact the opposite is true. Vehicles are lasting longer than ever using a 20 grade.
How different do you really think a 20 grade and 30 grade are anyways.
Dude just try AFE 0W30 and be done with it.
Its good enough, but if your still worried try a UCL like MMO or something to help prevent cylinder wear at start up.
My F-150 has over 170, 000 miles with 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40, etc and its still going strong. As long as there is oil in the sump you will be ok.
Its good enough, but if your still worried try a UCL like MMO or something to help prevent cylinder wear at start up.
My F-150 has over 170, 000 miles with 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40, etc and its still going strong. As long as there is oil in the sump you will be ok.
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
... I want the best protection for my engine.
When it goes to cold starts (or any time), that's going to be relatively hard to answer. As thin as is possible but as thick as is necessary is the short answer. As you're well aware, engines last a very long time on a wide range of viscosity choices. Of course, here, we're always trying to optimize this and choose the best of that.
For starts in the really, really cold conditions, we simply don't have the tools to determine whether a mix would pump where a fully formulated oil would not. For the fully formulated oil, we do know it meets a certain minimum score, and maybe have even more info on a data sheet. With a mix, we are a little more in the dark.
0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, and 15w-40 and so forth are all fantastic oils and many, many engines out there will run on any one of those grabbed at random and have no statistically significant difference in engine life.
In your vehicle, M1's 0w-20 or 0w-30 would do just fine. If I was in your shoes, I'd pretty much have to flip a coin. It would have to be a three sided coin, though, to include a 5w-30 conventional.
I have a mixing phobia, so I can't give you a real, unbiased answer on that in any case.
... I want the best protection for my engine.
When it goes to cold starts (or any time), that's going to be relatively hard to answer. As thin as is possible but as thick as is necessary is the short answer. As you're well aware, engines last a very long time on a wide range of viscosity choices. Of course, here, we're always trying to optimize this and choose the best of that.
For starts in the really, really cold conditions, we simply don't have the tools to determine whether a mix would pump where a fully formulated oil would not. For the fully formulated oil, we do know it meets a certain minimum score, and maybe have even more info on a data sheet. With a mix, we are a little more in the dark.
0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, and 15w-40 and so forth are all fantastic oils and many, many engines out there will run on any one of those grabbed at random and have no statistically significant difference in engine life.
In your vehicle, M1's 0w-20 or 0w-30 would do just fine. If I was in your shoes, I'd pretty much have to flip a coin. It would have to be a three sided coin, though, to include a 5w-30 conventional.
I have a mixing phobia, so I can't give you a real, unbiased answer on that in any case.
Originally Posted By: jamesyarbrough
Dude just try AFE 0W30 and be done with it.
Its good enough, but if your still worried try a UCL like MMO or something to help prevent cylinder wear at start up.
My F-150 has over 170, 000 miles with 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40, etc and its still going strong. As long as there is oil in the sump you will be ok.
This forum gives me a headache anymore,people take something so easy and turn it into a topic 3-8 pages long,I swear it's not that difficult!
Dude just try AFE 0W30 and be done with it.
Its good enough, but if your still worried try a UCL like MMO or something to help prevent cylinder wear at start up.
My F-150 has over 170, 000 miles with 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40, etc and its still going strong. As long as there is oil in the sump you will be ok.
This forum gives me a headache anymore,people take something so easy and turn it into a topic 3-8 pages long,I swear it's not that difficult!
its definitely a divided subject on here mixing versus not mixing.
Why mix to get a grade that is sitting there on the shelf?
How do you know if the viscosity modifers in the 0W-20 work with those in the 0W-40 in a linear, additive fashion (20+40/2= 30)?
How do you know you didn't just mix up some 10W-30, or something worse?
How do you know if the viscosity modifers in the 0W-20 work with those in the 0W-40 in a linear, additive fashion (20+40/2= 30)?
How do you know you didn't just mix up some 10W-30, or something worse?
- Status
Similar threads
