The thing I don't like about the turkey baster method is that you aren't removing many of the contaminants vs a full oil change/flush. The metallic stuff is what cases the wear and is the stuff I want to be rid of. IMO, the turkey baster method is valid only after the oil has been full changed first (to get rig of all the manufacturing and break in gunk but note the tests below. On the older Ford, which had been changed two or three times previously in its life (I am the original owner) it was still very nasty.
I had the PS oil of my two trucks tested for contaminants:
'05 Ford F150: ISO code 20/17/12 for oil with about 15K miles on it. Pretty nasty and most generic sources list 16/13 or so as an idea ISO code for PS systems. BTW, I installed a Magnefine filter on it and got it down to 17/15/12 in about 550 miles. I subsequently changed it the oil.
'86 F250 had about 6-10 years and over 30-40,000 miles on the oil and it started at an ISO code of a filthy 21/18/14. With the Magnefine, it went down to 18/16/13 in just 289 miles.
Bear in mind that you can remove the return line from the reservoir (plugging its port on the reservoir), extend the hose it into a container by any practical means, and run as much oil thru to flush as is necessary. I found a manual diversion valve online that could be permanently installed (on my Ford at least) to make that job even simpler (I have since lost the link but will find it again by the next time a change is due). All you do then is set the valve to divert to the "oil change nipple", run the engine and add fluid until the discharge is all clean oil.