Bought an old 08 XC70 for a third car/winter beater with 300k klms on it last fall. Trans shifted a little off(erratic/hard/soft shifts), and had a couple shift issue codes.. Fluid was nasty as had never been done. Flushed with 20l of trans max, and was good for awhile, but after 15k or so it started to get a pretty good torque convertor shudder going up through a few lower gears....they apply partial lockup in lower gears. So while i don't usually like additives, I tossed in a tube of shudder fix and a half bottle of red. Couple days of driving it seems 95% gone, and even shifts a little nicer. Hopefully it stays "fixed" !!
Lubegard for the win....so far
- Thread starter TeamZero
- Start date
Shudder fix is temporary,the red or platinum have longer lasting effects.
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The stuff works great. I’ve used it for all the transmission issues we have had and it’s done well.
Thanks....maybe i'll toss the rest of the red in
I've used Lubegard red in three older cars. Each had a small but noticeable improvement in shift quality. Light converter shudder in one of my Buicks disappeared completely. Great product.
If your P3 XC70 is similar to the P80 and P2 generation (and very, very likely is), some of the common shift problems are due to the engine mounts/supports. There is one on top visible to the back of the engine block (aka "engine support), one below from the front of the subframe to the transmission (aka, "transmission support) that are the usual culprits. They are only semi-solid bushings and eventually tear through. Replacing the bushing or mount if they are torn fixes some of the hard shifting. This is particularly culpable for the "garage shift" - e.g. a hard shift when stationary and moving from P to R, or P to D. There are aftermarket polyurethane bushings that solve this perennial problem.
The Aisin transmissions in them are really, really good if properly maintained.
The Aisin transmissions in them are really, really good if properly maintained.
Shutter fix and lubegard red are awesome products. My 07 Dodge Grand Caravan started having shutter issues around 90k miles, I changed my ATF and added shudder fix and lubegard red and my transmission started working perfectly. Transmission was still working perfectly at 160k miles when I sold the van.
I still can't believe how some additives can fix transmission problems like I had on my van but it worked and cost me maybe $20-$30
I still can't believe how some additives can fix transmission problems like I had on my van but it worked and cost me maybe $20-$30
Nah these are different than the older ones. That said the pass side mount is common to sag, the the upper torque tear. They are both new.
Because that LV fluid is not what is needed for that transmission. Shudder fix "repaired" that, but IMO that's worse than putting the correct fluid to start with and then adding Lubegard red/platinum for longevity.
I used in my cars, with good results, Castrol - Transmax ATF Import Multi-vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid.
In higher mileage cars (180-200k miles) I used Castrol - Transmax ATF High Mileage Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Always added Lubegard Platinum. Never had a transmission die before the car, had a few Fords (rusted/totaled) and presently a Hyundai all at about 200k miles.
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Yes I realize its not the "right" fluid. Unfortunately the "import" castrol is not readily available here in ontario for some reason. Being this was a 2k cheap car I didnt want to spend any more than possible at the time. That said, I'm not so sure the LV would cause a converter shudder by itself....probably more the 300k with no fluid change. From what I have read the fluids are very close other than the vis. I put high vis toyota T4in the 13 xc which calls for LV and it works great.
Viscosity number creates the pressure of the pumped fluid.
Lower viscosity will lower that fluid flow, hence the head pressure and, depending on the actual pump wear, it might fall below the value that will affect the transmission.
Using higher viscosity than indicated will try to increase the pressure at the pump, but then the pump relief valve will open, dump some of the fluid back into the pan, and bring that back the pressure to the nominal. You are just increasing the pump losses in this way.
Some cars don't react that way to LV fluids because their pumps still have sufficient head reserve to allow the output pressure to remain in the regulated range.
Lower viscosity will lower that fluid flow, hence the head pressure and, depending on the actual pump wear, it might fall below the value that will affect the transmission.
Using higher viscosity than indicated will try to increase the pressure at the pump, but then the pump relief valve will open, dump some of the fluid back into the pan, and bring that back the pressure to the nominal. You are just increasing the pump losses in this way.
Some cars don't react that way to LV fluids because their pumps still have sufficient head reserve to allow the output pressure to remain in the regulated range.
These are EMCC clutches in these though, not on/off. It looks for a certain slip number, and adjusts accordingly
Have to disagree there....there are lots out there that do this......usually under light load/light throttle....this is done for NVH issues. Don't forget converter clutch is cooled by trans fluid.
We had a p2 come home with bad shift flare from 1-2. I did 3x drain/fills with amsoil and later added a magenfine filter. 15,000 miles later the flare was gone. Being that the trans doesn’t have a real filter, the external one might have made a good difference.
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