Lubegard ATF Additives

[SHAMUS]

I thought I saw a thread somewhere in these forums on ATF additives, but [censored] if I can find it now. So, I would like your opinions/experiences using Lubegard's ATF additives. Not so much in their claims of changing one ATF to work like another, but as to their claims in better-longer performance.

 

[tom slick]

The consensus is they are good additives but not needed in modern ATF. Especially when current ATFs are so specialilzed toward the application.

 

[demarpaint]

I used some Lubegard Red in my 93 Aerostar. I did a line flush and added some LG because of a slight delay going into Reverse when the weather is very cold. I did this in the fall prior to the cold weather setting in. It helped greatly with the delay. I've had this issue as far back as I can remember and the transmission is serviced regularly. I say its one of the better additives on the market. I'm not sure if it has any real value in a transmission that is problem free, but in my case it helped greatly. JMO

 

[Whitewolf]

A decent well formulated ATF does not require additional contaminants to potentially detract from the overall performance of a given fluid that has been developed and tested by industry professionals.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Lubegard was a good way to make the cheaper Dex fluids perform better back in the day without going all the way to a synthetic fluid. I think it is still a good additive for the unlicensed Dex/Merc type fluids that are still being sold. But now, it is certainly not needed in the more modern, higher quality fluids out there like Dex VI.

 

[unDummy]

Besides the Dex/Merc fluids, I recommend contaminating T-IV, SPIII, MaticD, ATF+3,..... and other not so well performing ATFs. I do love when a contaminate fixes and prevents issues caused by the superbly engineered OE fluid.

 

[disturban]

I rebuild transmissions for a living and one pint of lubegard goes in every tranny that leaves our shop. Synthetic fluid or not lubgard help with keeping the fluid cool and heat is the number one enemy of an automatic transmission. It also has friction modifiers in it that synthetic fluid does not.

 

[lexus114]

 Originally Posted By: unDummy

Besides the Dex/Merc fluids, I recommend contaminating T-IV, SPIII, MaticD, ATF+3,..... and other not so well performing ATFs. I do love when a contaminate fixes and prevents issues caused by the superbly engineered OE fluid.Unless of course you are being sarcastic.

So you think Toyota type-IV (Mobil)is superb fluid huh?? Well I beg to differ with you their.Unless of course you really are being sarcastic,then i would agree with you.

 

[disturban]

Just change your fluid with a good synthetic and add a pint of red Lubegard and call it a day. By the way I see people on here changing their fluid after 30,000 [censored]? Total waste of money...if you run synthetic every 100,000 miles is fine, conventional should be changed every 50,000. This is for normal driving and operating temperatures though. If your towing, racing or other severe duty conditions I would change it sooner. My 1988 Suburban has 286,000 miles 1/2 of them are towing campers and boats. Tranny fluid changed every 75,000 miles with synthetic and one pint of Lubegard red...it still works like it did the day it was bought in 1988! 30,000 miles is like changing your oil every 1500 miles!

 

[lexus114]

 Originally Posted By: disturban

Just change your fluid with a good synthetic and add a pint of red Lubegard and call it a day. By the way I see people on here changing their fluid after 30,000 [censored]? Total waste of money...if you run synthetic every 100,000 miles is fine, conventional should be changed every 50,000. This is for normal driving and operating temperatures though. If your towing, racing or other severe duty conditions I would change it sooner. My 1988 Suburban has 286,000 miles 1/2 of them are towing campers and boats. Tranny fluid changed every 75,000 miles with synthetic and one pint of Lubegard red...it still works like it did the day it was bought in 1988! 30,000 miles is like changing your oil every 1500 miles!

disturban,Normally I would agree with you %100 in what you stated above.However the early U140F AWD trans.in my RX was a problem trans.due to planetary gears not being strong enough( of course they have updated parts for them now) Steel shaft vs.Aluminum,6 planetary gears vs 4 etc.And of course this is only some of the problem with this particular transmission.the bottom line is this; it`s very hard on fluid and the Type-IV just doesnt hold up at all in it,so forget about going 50k on standard fluid. I change every 10-15k with Synthetic and keeping my fingers crossed. I think what bugs me the most about this is Toyota knows their was a problem with it,and they simply will not fess up and put out a recall on this thing.They better hope that their is no major accident due to this weak pos,because all the money they may have saved looking the other way just might be lost at that point.I like my RX very much,checked out Consumer-Reports and all that jazz before we bought it.It`s rated extremely well,(even for the transmission) But then as I did more research (after buying of course) is when all of this stuff re; the transmission popped up.Hence my signature "over 100k on the original trans" So far though I am very satisfied and cant yet complain.

 

[MolaKule]

 Quote:

It also has friction modifiers in it that synthetic fluid does not.

It has various natural and synthesized esters but its the formulated ATF that has the proper friction modifiers for the plates and clutch surfaces. It's main advantage was the improved anti-oxidants and esters that it contained for the older Dex/Mercon series to stabilize the fluid under high heat. The newer low viscosity formulations now have an improved oxidation stabilizer so LubeGuard Red is not needed in those fluids.

 

[Ken2]

I do like the Lubegard power steering additive http://lubegard.com/automotive/pwrstr_protectant.html I put it into two good units, and they immediately turned with less effort--a surprise to me; I just wanted to maximize the life of the parts. I don't know if the stuff is still effective or if it is no longer working. To replace Toyota T-IV (Mobil 3309), if it is indeed a weak fluid, I'd consider one of the near-universal fluids recommended by a fluid maker I trust to be used where T-IV is spec'ed. Schaeffer All-Trans Supreme, Red Line D4, and Amsoil ATF are some....