LSPI and TGDI LUBEGARD OIL ADDITIVE

Cool; I’m willing to bet that even with whatever additives LG uses (likely huge dose of di/tri moly & (ZDD)P along with something to boost TBN), this is still just a crutch.

No personal attack here, but at $21.99 for an additive that claims 45% longer OCI, just go buy another 5qt jug of oil for $19-25 (QSFS up to the other brands) and extend your OCI by 100%, with brand new oil and filter!

LG Red is by far their best product, even if it’s not the one with the best marketing…
I like the gray platinum ATF one. I wanted to like the CVT additive, but I think the BG CVT 303 & Transmission Restore by Hotshots is a better product.
 
I like the gray platinum ATF one. I wanted to like the CVT additive, but I think the BG CVT 303 & Transmission Restore by Hotshots is a better product.
I was thinking of using lubeguard CVT additive in my Rogue . So you don’t think it’s good ?
 
I was thinking of using lubeguard CVT additive in my Rogue . So you don’t think it’s good ?
I would run the BG CVT 303 or hotshots secret transmission restore.
 

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Pretty similar to the regular biotech.... substituted magnesium for calcium, along with some new marketing and bottle label.
 
I've seen this one. I was referring to the new GDI Lubegard.
You do realize you replied to a year-old post, right?

And, if your main concern is for GDI intake valve deposits and/or LSPI, then you would be much better off choosing a better fully-formulated oil that meets SN+ or SP rather than mixing a 3rd party additive that may significantly alter the properties of whatever oil you’re mixing it into, right?

There are several oils that meet very demanding standards that also meet API SP; there’s no guarantee that adding any additive, even LG BioTech, won’t negatively impact an oil and potentially cause the resultant mix to fail one or more of those tests.
 
You do realize you replied to a year-old post, right?

And, if your main concern is for GDI intake valve deposits and/or LSPI, then you would be much better off choosing a better fully-formulated oil that meets SN+ or SP rather than mixing a 3rd party additive that may significantly alter the properties of whatever oil you’re mixing it into, right?

There are several oils that meet very demanding standards that also meet API SP; there’s no guarantee that adding any additive, even LG BioTech, won’t negatively impact an oil and potentially cause the resultant mix to fail one or more of those tests.
I do realize it's a year old......why would/does that matter?

Thank you for the answer. I'll guess I'll skip it and just use the Castrol by itself.
 
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