LS Jr. Titled: The TRUTH About Valvoline's BOLD Engine Cleaning Claims

I had a 2004 Prius several years ago. Bought it with 188k mi and I remember it having a nice crust under the oil fill cap. It used about 1qt/5k mi which was totally reasonable. At 190k I started it on a 10k mi oci w/Mobil HM 5w30, and to my amazement by the next oil change that just topping it off every 1k mi a cleanish little circle of metal had appeared on the baffle under the oil fill cap.
Just to add to this comment from another R&P post, the Mobil 1 HM remediated a mildly varnished dipstick in that car too.
 
For me, being a former LT and now SUV owner - I find our Lexus a pain to change oil in - so it normally gets EP and a longer run than the 4WD’s … Going to dual port injection helps …
(don’t remove a panel on the other 3 either)
@4WD out of curiosity why did u state “Going to dual port injection helps …” The 2GR-FXS is both a direct and port fuel injection system. One downside is the spark interval is reduced to 60K mi.
 
I'd argue the folks buying oil in the WM aisle for DIY maintenance don't have fresh cars with low mileage.

Most of the motor oil I've used has been bought at Walmart. My wife's Outback, which we bought new, has been filled with Walmart purchased motor oil from the very first oil change. Admittedly, I bought my E350 with around 45k miles on the odometer, but even if I had bought it new, I still would have got all the M1 0W-40 Euro from Walmart.

Do you think you're the exception or the rule?

I don't think so. Most of those I know, who do their own car maintenance, new car or old, buys their motor oil at Walmart.
 
Varnish means the additive package of the oil is no longer keeping contaminants in suspension and allowing them to plate-out; the dispersant and detergent package has reached its saturation point and is no longer able to do its job effectively.

Whether that bothers you or not is separate from the mechanism by which the varnish appears, and accumulates.

One thing I've seen in my (admittedly limited) teardowns of engines that are heavily varnished, are coked up oil control rings and ring sticking, with, not surprisingly, varnish/lacquer. Of course this is the condition that Valvoline R&P is supposed to address.

If there's nothing to clean, then there's no point in running R&P. And if the oil was capable of the OCI's being used, it wouldn't have the varnish and there'd be nothing to clean. The use of this product is predicated on the use of a lubricant that has left considerable deposits in the ring land area that require cleaning up (to the point where there are oil control problems), and an oil that's doing that means you are either using it too long, it isn't a very good oil, or some combination of the two.
Im sure he would have brought up oil consumption issues if the van had them, especially since vrp would be addressing this. I’ve also seen this varnish on other Toyotas with virtually no oil consumption, so I’m not sure that theory holds up.
 
Im sure he would have brought up oil consumption issues if the van had them, especially since vrp would be addressing this. I’ve also seen this varnish on other Toyotas with virtually no oil consumption, so I’m not sure that theory holds up.
The marketing for R&P is essentially based on that scenario, where you have ring land deposits to the point of oil control being compromised, and subsequently consumption. I'm not saying that he was necessarily experiencing that aspect of it (though other Toyota owners have).

Toyota has a rather colourful history of ring land coking issues, though that's separate from this particular discussion. The mechanism in play leading to the presence of varnish is well understood.
 
He's referring to 540rat I believe, not LSJ.
Yeah Rats a loon, LSjr is one of the rare voices on YouTube not spreading oil Fudd lore and outright misinformation. Sure there’s some clickbait titles but that’s YouTube.

My only problem with the guy is that I think he charges a bit too much for an oil analysis. A single sample is like $50 through speeddiagnostix while a kit through Amsoil is $31 and from what I can tell you don’t get any extra testing for the higher price.
 
Most of the motor oil I've used has been bought at Walmart. My wife's Outback, which we bought new, has been filled with Walmart purchased motor oil from the very first oil change. Admittedly, I bought my E350 with around 45k miles on the odometer, but even if I had bought it new, I still would have got all the M1 0W-40 Euro from Walmart.



I don't think so. Most of those I know, who do their own car maintenance, new car or old, buys their motor oil at Walmart.
Check the comment I was replying to. edyvw says, "in reality, it is marketing aimed at an unsuspecting customer who thinks at 40k they need to 'restore' their engine. Who are those people? Stick around the WM aisle for 20-30 minutes and observer how people buy oils."

Lotta folks at Walmart are going to be right in line with the products use case. They aren't going to be "duped."
 
I lost some faith in Lake with this video. Too much hype and very little evidence. It comes down to a dipstick and 1 element. Not buying it! Believe what you want. I'll come back in a couple years and see what the real evidence shows. I just ordered more HPL and that's good enough for me. I'll never have to worry about tarnish on MY dipstick.
 
I lost some faith in Lake with this video. Too much hype and very little evidence. It comes down to a dipstick and 1 element. Not buying it! Believe what you want. I'll come back in a couple years and see what the real evidence shows. I just ordered more HPL and that's good enough for me. I'll never have to worry about tarnish on MY dipstick.
OK...
 
I lost some faith in Lake with this video. Too much hype and very little evidence. It comes down to a dipstick and 1 element. Not buying it! Believe what you want. I'll come back in a couple years and see what the real evidence shows. I just ordered more HPL and that's good enough for me. I'll never have to worry about tarnish on MY dipstick.
If it was HPL you would be like wow such a great job it did!.

Thanks for proving my point in regards to my previous post though. :ROFLMAO:
 
My interest in R&P will be to see if it can slow oil consumption in my Theta II 2.4L GDI to be better than continued M1 5W30 EP + Rislone oil treatment regiment . If R&P is shown to help after a few of my normal 3,000 to 3,500 mile OCI’s then great . If little to no improvement using R&P , then I’ll just chalk it up more so to the Theta II 2.4L engine design.
I'll keep you posted, doing just that. My sons 2.4 Theta II isn't burning much oil, but it is burning it. So far, on his first R&P fill, I have added a little bit in 2,000 miles, so not seeing ay change in 2K. Still going. Will report again when he gets to 4K. 4K is what his OCI is set at.
 
You proved NOTHING! But if your little feelings are better for mentioning it, go celebrate!
Did I strike a nerve? it seems I did :ROFLMAO:

Yea I proved that you HPL fanboys will continue to hate, Yall had no problem praising Lake when he praised HPL and showed it is a very good oil, but as soon as he showed Valvoline did in fact clean just as everyone else has been showing, and as soon as he showed analysis proving it did good oh no he is a shill, he is being paid, I lost faith in him, etc.

What is also interesting is you had to be so set on telling everyone on a Valvoline thread that you bought more HPL.
 
Did I strike a nerve? it seems I did :ROFLMAO:

Yea I proved that you HPL fanboys will continue to hate, Yall had no problem praising Lake when he praised HPL and showed it is a very good oil, but as soon as he showed Valvoline did in fact clean just as everyone else has been showing, and as soon as he showed analysis proving it did good oh not he is a shill, he is being paid, I lost faith in him, etc.

What is also interesting is you had to be so set on telling everyone on a Valvoline thread that you bought more HPL.
I use HPL, and I just changed my son's car and used the Valvoline restore and protect in it.
 
He attributed some of the deposit buildup due to high moly of TGMO. I say it's inconclusive that the high moly caused it, but I have read high moly levels are not ideal for deposit protection. If you have the solvency built into your oil, it's probably not a concern at all.




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