LS-1 M1 10W30 10k mi oci

[454MAG]

Hi All First post. Excellent board been reading it for a while. anyhow here is a report from my 2000TA-LS1 6 speed. It sees 6k rpms on a daily basis and sees 100 miles a day. During this OCI it saw Daily cold starts btwn -14 to +25 with an avg daily temp of 14degrees F. I have been changing the M1 10-30 every 10k miles since new. This report was with a Bosch filter. Motor does not slap or use much oil--one half qt in 10k mi. It did make more noise on the below zero startups until warm

Miles on oil 10,034
miles on unit 50,019
date 2/25/04

aluminum 7
chromium 1
iron 21
copper 15
lead 2
tin 5
moly 74
nickel 2
mang 0
silver 0
tit 0
K 0
Boron 115
silicon 10
sodium 7
calcium 3196
Magnesium 16
phosphorous 711
zinc 861
barium 0

SUS 63.5
Fuel water trace
insooubles .4

TED: Wear looks good in this sample from your GM engine, especially considering this oil was in use
10,034 miles. The universal averages column shows typical wear from this type of engine after about
2000 miles on the oil. A trace of moisture was found. If the sample was taken cold, then it is probably
condensation. The TBN read 4.1 so the oil still contained plenty of active additive when you changed
it. You could go longer on the oil, if you wanted. Try 11,000 miles for the next sample. Your bearing
wear looks especially good!


Ted

 

[Motorbike]

No oil filter changes . No oil sampling every 1k miles , no funny business

Go Mobil !

 

[Patman]

This report is almost too good to be true. Lead of only 2ppm on a hard driven LS1 in 10k, wow! That is one good motor you've got there, using only a half quart in 10k is flat out awesome.

 

[Chris B.]

Very nice! How black did the M1 look with this many miles on it?

 

[Al]

Great great report. I would change filters every 5K miles though.

 

[buster]

This is a great report, almost unbelievable actually. I'd have to be fair here though and say this is just one very low wearing engine. We never see reports like this from LS1's on ANY oil.

 

[TooSlick]

There are two keys to these results:

1) The 100 miles a day at highway speeds with a fully warmed up engine ....

2) The excellent silicon level of 10 ppm, which keeps valvetrain wear low....

An engine that is fully warmed up and running at constant speeds/loads, generates almost NO wear metal. That's how effective modern lubricants have become ....

 

[Ferb]

Yeah, with silicon that low, i gotta know what air filter you're running?

(And if it's K&N i think we'll all have heart attacks)

ferb!

 

[454MAG]

Thank you all for the responses. a little more info on the car and oil.
First the oil was very black and thin whe drained. Second the air filter was the factory original Very blackened that sat inside an SLP CAI box with the bottom cut out -- the free ram air mod. I had to remove the airbox assembly and run it through the parts washer before changiing the air filter. It was all full of sand and saltand some oil from the PCV. that filter must have been totally plugged up although it did not show in performance. Car ran a 12.9 at 108 in good air with only cold air and a loudmouth cat back last fall. I thought the Cold starts would really hurt the engine wear. This was the coldest winter since 1918 here. The car also sees a lot of stop and go traffic on 128 and some general abuse-- smoky burnouts and sideways second gear stuff -hey thats what i bought it for.

I have been using the 10k mi OCI mobil 1 in several vehicles for about 15 years now.
the first was a 1984 supra that was running like new when i sold it with 267000 miles with the body rotting off.

the next is a 94 LT-1 Formula that currently has 201000 miles and runs like the day I bought it with no smoke or oil consumption. Ran 10-30 for the first 100k and switched to 15-50 for the second 100k except in winter when I mixed 10-30 and 15-50. Also on the original 4l60E with 50K mile filter and fluid changes with MOBIL 1 ATF.
The first change to synthetic atf dropped the water temp 10 degrees which was amazing to me. this was running a 160 degree stat.

This was the first Oil analysis I have done but after going into that supra motor with over 200 k mi to do cam seals and timing belt and tensioner it was spotless inside.

Sorry for the long post I am a huge fan of M1 as you can see. I also run it in my boat and motorcycle.

Ted

 

[TooSlick]

Ted,

The Mobil 1R, 0w30 should hold up even better under these conditions - specifically with regards to oxidation - and will probably allow you to extend drains out to 12k-15k miles.

That's the Mobil 1 formulation I'd use in almost any newer engine ....

Tooslick

 

[454MAG]

Tooslick

Would you recommend the 0-30r over the 5-40 suv oil for this app? I have always worried about xw-30 being too thin for a v8 driven hard in hot weather. I know the 10-30 is too thin under extreme use in a boat. In my old boat after about 30 minutes at 5100 rpm when I slowed to idle for the no wake zone oil press dropped to about 5 psi. when I switched to 15-50 it stayed above 15 psi at idle after extended WOT runs. This was on a built 350 chevy. New boat has a 454 MAG and is run equally hard with 15-50 since new with no problems.

Also will the 0-30r be available at Wal Mart or Autozone ?

I do not mind paying a few extra bucks for a better product because of the longer drain periods. I would not feel comfortable taking an oil filter over 10k miles.

Thanks
Ted

 

[Patman]

I'd love to see you do oil analysis results on your 94 Formula! I've got a 95 Formula and am running German Castrol 0w30 with excellent results, but am still interested in seeing how a 15w50 oil does in the LT1. I think it's too thick, but the oil analysis results would tell us more.

 

[buster]

454MAG Why on earth would you use another oil after results like these?

Stick with M1 10w30. The M1R's main benefit is racing conditions. If you were racing this car and wanted maximum protection under extreme use, then use the M1R otherwise stay put. Excellent report. If anything, use the SUV 5w-40 in the summer.

[ March 09, 2004, 05:37 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[TooSlick]

454MAG,

The M-1R should hold up even better than the garden variety 10w30 in a high performance application. Have you looked at the Hp they get out of 326 cubic inches in a Winston Cup car? Your wear rates are fine right now and the 5w-40 will only hurt performance in this case. If you were drag racing, I'd say it might make some sense ....

There is a misconception that racing conditions aren't applicable to street use. In fact, the oil degradation mechanisms in both case are exactly the same. However, in racing, all the degradation rates are greatly accelerated due to higher heat/rpms and mechanical loads. Fuel dilution, heat, oxidation, nitration all occur in race engines. In addition, small amounts of water are always generated as a by product of combustion, although in this case the water quickly evaporates.

In other words, a durable racing oil with a balanced AW and detergent/dispersant mix will be an excellent long drain street oil. My experience over the last eight years would tend to confirm this ....

The M-1R has the same calcium/magnesium mix and approx TBN as the 10w30 and a much higher level of oxidation inhibitors (ZDP). I'd run some for 10k and have it tested ....

 

[buster]

The 10w30 is his best choice. M1R is more money and with results like these, your not going to improve upon them. You can't get better results then this for 10k miles on an LS1. I definitely would not use M1R if my UOA looked like this.

 

[novadude]

quote:

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Your wear rates are fine right now and the 5w-40 will only hurt performance in this case.

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Why do you say that? Is the viscosity difference big enough to hurt performance?