If two leading synthetic oils generally have good or equal quality add packs , viscosity , etc. would you then look at the oil with the lower NOAK number (as a measure of better quality) to determine which one you would buy ?
I'd select based on spec and approvals rather than composition. But yes, all else equal, I'd be inclined to go with lower NOACK.
...Or at least I would with any car but mine. With mine, I have no idea what I'd do...
no,
First off you never know the whole additive package, many things dont show up.
Its NOACK not NOAK and generally lower is better but it reflects the base stock TYPE and quality more than anything else.
A well designed premium group III oil could have a noack around 10% and be better than another with a noack of 6%
Now If I had a turbo DI engine with a 4qt sump.. I'd definitely prefer something with a lower noack.. but while its a worthy stat to refer too.. its important not to over empathize it.
If two leading synthetic oils generally have good or equal quality add packs , viscosity , etc. would you then look at the oil with the lower NOAK number (as a measure of better quality) to determine which one you would buy ?
The most stringent mfg specs in existence today call for NOACK of 10% or less, so that's probably good enough for even the most demanding applications. Once you get below that level, I'm not sure there is going to be a whole lot of distinction/benefit there.
Pennzoil Plat Pure Plus 5w30 = ~10%
Pennzoil Plat Pure Plus 10w30 = ~5%
...but it doesnt make the 10w30 a better oil even if the vehicle specs both as acceptable.
-According to their (Pennzoil's) Tech Line.
no,
First off you never know the whole additive package, many things dont show up.
Its NOACK not NOAK and generally lower is better but it reflects the base stock TYPE and quality more than anything else.
A well designed premium group III oil could have a noack around 10% and be better than another with a noack of 6%
Now If I had a turbo DI engine with a 4qt sump.. I'd definitely prefer something with a lower noack.. but while its a worthy stat to refer too.. its important not to over empathize it.
NOACK is the number I pay most attention to when shopping synthetics for my D.I. Focus. Guys on the Focus forums are sending in really ugly pictures of their valves very early in the cars' lives. Apparently the oil separator Ford built into the PCV system isn't very effective. A few guys have installed catch cans, and regularly drain a shot glass full of oil or more out of them. This is on the ST, though. Not sure how much the N/A 2.0 is affected.
Anything I can to do minimize the valve crud is what I'd want to do.
Anything I can to do minimize the valve crud is what I'd want to do.
I guess it may be too early to tell, but is there any evidence out there yet showing that an oil with NOACK of 6% results in reduced deposits compared to an oil with NOACK of 9%?
FYI, there was some study done by Lubrizol showing that low SAPS oils help reduce DI valve deposits, alas, that is separate from NOACK obviously.
My plan with my DI Regal (though it's not a turbo) is to go with QSUD, which, I've read here, has a very low NOACK. It's otherwise a fine syn oil and is well-priced.
...but! Some believe that a better TEOST score may be more significant in the prevention of these deposits.
Amsoil Tests 5w30 synthetics:http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G3115.pdf
Base stock NOACK is hugely related to viscosity, even for GTLs.
GTL 4 max. 14 wt% (typical 12.8). GTL 8 max. 5 wt% (typical 2.3).
So the Noack for finished lubricant depends on the formulation.
One could guestimate that Pennzoil Plat PurePlus 10W30 contains more heavier GTL than 5W30 counterpart. Assuming these PurePlus's are 100% Grp III oils and no e.g. PAOs used.
no,
First off you never know the whole additive package, many things dont show up.
Its NOACK not NOAK and generally lower is better but it reflects the base stock TYPE and quality more than anything else.
A well designed premium group III oil could have a noack around 10% and be better than another with a noack of 6%
Now If I had a turbo DI engine with a 4qt sump.. I'd definitely prefer something with a lower noack.. but while its a worthy stat to refer too.. its important not to over empathize it.
As only possible on BITOG - it actually should be Noack, named after Dr. Kurt Noack who developed the test (in the 1930s, iirc).
NOACK is the number I pay most attention to when shopping synthetics for my D.I. Focus. Guys on the Focus forums are sending in really ugly pictures of their valves very early in the cars' lives. Apparently the oil separator Ford built into the PCV system isn't very effective. A few guys have installed catch cans, and regularly drain a shot glass full of oil or more out of them. This is on the ST, though. Not sure how much the N/A 2.0 is affected.
Anything I can to do minimize the valve crud is what I'd want to do.
After spending nearly 3 years on one of the 2012-2014 Focus forums I've heard plenty of compliments and complaints, but not a single report of intake valve deposits. If there's a problem it may be only be with the turbocharged ST version.
NOACK is the number I pay most attention to when shopping synthetics for my D.I. Focus. Guys on the Focus forums are sending in really ugly pictures of their valves very early in the cars' lives. Apparently the oil separator Ford built into the PCV system isn't very effective. A few guys have installed catch cans, and regularly drain a shot glass full of oil or more out of them. This is on the ST, though. Not sure how much the N/A 2.0 is affected.
Anything I can to do minimize the valve crud is what I'd want to do.
ACEA C3 oil would do better for your Focus then low NOACK oil.
RLI developed an oil for DI engines a few years ago using a customer's Audi and test verification from Terry Dyson. It's not listed by it may be available on request. You can actually talk to the people that formulate the oil.
RLI engine oil page