He and we missed upon the oil making it to the pump. the oil pump .
Looking inside an engine during cold start (-30C degrees)
- Thread starter ZeeOSix
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In this case maybe! I'm not saying in general synthetic oil stops parts from breaking if they are weak or over stressed.
If a motor won't start because of whatever other electrical/mechanical issue, of course motor oil base oil makes no difference BUT in very cold weak battery situations, heck yes easy pumping synthetic oil does indeed make engines easier to start.
Well then if you were to buy a synthetic engine oil change, and a new "oversized" battery for your car, and the car lived in an tough environment like say Alaska or deep into Canada, over a 5 year period your battery would be a cheaper alternative then using synthetic oil. The extra CCA's capacity of the battery would start your car even if it was maintained to the mfgrs minimum recommendations for service. That's what people did back in the day before synthetic oil existed. So 2 oil changes a year with walmart syn oil might cost $38 per change. Times 10 changes over a 5 year period, would be in the $760 range give or take. I would say amsoil oil would cost alot more per change. Batteries are alot cheaper in the long run. A mechanically broken car that won't start, won't care what battery or oil is in it.
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I wonder how different that test would've turned out if they'd used a modern fuel injected car? I bet the reason it wouldn't start wasn't so much the oil, but the fact it's an old carbureted engine. I remember the carbureted engines back in the mid 1980s would have a hard time starting on winter mornings.
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If the entire premise of your video hinges on using an oil that's not suitable for the temperature experienced, what's the point in me watching it? It's like trying to hunt moose with a .177 cal pellet gun.
We need a Russian interpreter to narrate for us, who knows what he was really saying, it was whatever this guy thinks he was saying...he might have even mentioned brand and grade.
I'm surprised to see how much oil was on the chain - these engines were renowned for camchain wear. I was servicing a Lada once, and adjusted the cam chain...with the engine running you slacken the adjuster bolt, the spring pushes the tensioner in, and then you tighten it up. So I slackened the adjuster, and next thing there is an awful clatter - valves hitting pistons ! I shut it down, slackened the adjuster, turned the engine backwards a bit to loosen the chain, and no more noise. I told him to get rid of it and he got an old Datsun 1200 that was trouble free for years.
I'm surprised to see how much oil was on the chain - these engines were renowned for camchain wear. I was servicing a Lada once, and adjusted the cam chain...with the engine running you slacken the adjuster bolt, the spring pushes the tensioner in, and then you tighten it up. So I slackened the adjuster, and next thing there is an awful clatter - valves hitting pistons ! I shut it down, slackened the adjuster, turned the engine backwards a bit to loosen the chain, and no more noise. I told him to get rid of it and he got an old Datsun 1200 that was trouble free for years.
Yes. A video about cold oil flow becomes a video about not being able to start an engine in the cold, even with a half-can of ether. Otherwise, it could have a good advertisement for 0W-20.
I started my 1970 Pontiac in that kind of cold a few times with 30W in the sump, but it had sat inside a Quonset hut with the block heater plugged in all night.
1. Избавьтесь от этой машины.
2. Переместитесь в более теплое место.
3. Блок обогревателя.
4. 0W Синтетика.
I understand what "w" ratings are all about, but someone please explain to me why Amsoil AME 15w40 shows pressure on my (mechanical) oil pressure gauge quicker than T6 5w40 in -26c unaided by a block heater or my Webasto?
Two 30 second cycles of the grid elements was all it took.
I was thinking it was the extra ZDDP, but perhaps it was the lack of moly?
Two 30 second cycles of the grid elements was all it took.
I was thinking it was the extra ZDDP, but perhaps it was the lack of moly?
ZDDP and moly wont affect initial cold weather flow. Any difference will be due to viscosity at that particular temp.
Yeah, for most 15w40's but maybe that Amsoil product has better cold temperature properties? Don't know.
Thats why I think 0w-40 euro is an amazing oil.
What are these "VIIs" one hears about, do they wrap themselves around valve stems & clog drainback holes?
Will moly laced Redline help with that, being 100% ester based & all?
Asking for a friend.
Will moly laced Redline help with that, being 100% ester based & all?
Asking for a friend.
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But SOPUS says T6 5w40 is synthetic as well I just don’t understand why it takes longer to show pressure on my mechanical gauge.
Defective gauge ruined by Amway snake oil, perhaps?
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