Looking inside an engine during cold start (-30C degrees)
- Thread starter ZeeOSix
- Start date
They ruin a few Lada's in these videos...they might run out of them one day. Mineral oil, that tells us a lot - 10W-30 or 20W-60 ?
I saw this video a few days ago.
Have you seen the one with the clear differential cover?
Extra footage video below this video.
Have you seen the one with the clear differential cover?
Extra footage video below this video.
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It would have been better if he had used a (known to be) reasonable grade of oil: 5W-30 or 5W-20 or something like that. And it would have been nice to have started with a good starting engine. Most engines start a lot better in even colder temperatures.
It's not at all clear to me why oil didn't make it up to the top end but I'm not so sure it's because that's "normal" for that engine. I've started and driven off with many cold engines and I don't have the impression that there was no top end lubrication.
It's not at all clear to me why oil didn't make it up to the top end but I'm not so sure it's because that's "normal" for that engine. I've started and driven off with many cold engines and I don't have the impression that there was no top end lubrication.
I believe they may be using Bardahl XTC 10w40, at least that's what they usually show pouring in.So..... What were they using ??
SAE 30 grade...
Or 20w50 at -30°C.
They didn't show it in this video but usually they use Bardahl 10w40, that's what they used in the previous video where they used the clear valve cover and oil pan, and it's what I've seen them use in other videos before.
He even mentions the relief valve in the video, the pump relief is probably staying wide open and just duping the oil right back to the pan.
And looking closer that's not the usual Bardahl oil they use, who knows what viscosity that stuff they used is.
It's like I'm watching a bad Russian video or something.
Can we agree synthetic motor oil might actually pump a tad quicker, given a reasonable SAE viscosity selection? Or is this still too much to accept for some of you?
Can we agree synthetic motor oil might actually pump a tad quicker, given a reasonable SAE viscosity selection? Or is this still too much to accept for some of you?
That because you are watching a bad Russian video! Was waiting for a bear to attack one of them or guys in track suits to start fighting behind him.
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Well, if the distributor gear was still missing teeth and not spinning the distributor and oil pump, Even with synthetic oil in it I'd bet the car still wouldn't start, and the synthetic oil wouldn't flow either.,,,
Too thick mineral oil of the wrong grade-check
Sub freezing start (barely) followed by excessive RPMs to keep running-check
Ancient junk RU tech with high pressure oil pump=BOOM!
I bet it ran fine with a new distributor/oil pump drive gear & warmed up a little!
Sub freezing start (barely) followed by excessive RPMs to keep running-check
Ancient junk RU tech with high pressure oil pump=BOOM!
I bet it ran fine with a new distributor/oil pump drive gear & warmed up a little!
It broke the teeth because it had an aftermarket high pressure oil pump driven by that gear & the guy revved it pretty high to try to get oil flow to the cam/head area (which was finally starting when the gear failed). Needs an oil pan heater!
I doubt the darned thing would have broken if it had synthetic oil of the correct viscosity in the first place.
Truly you are not stating non-synthetic flows/pumps just the same as synthetic oil?
Truly your not making the statement that by simply using synthetic oil, it will prevent a hard metal part from breaking ?, That would be quite the claim. And if synthetic oil pumps better than mineral oil at -22f, and the motor refuses start, does it matter?.,,,
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