Liquimoly Radiator Stop Leak

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Wouldn't this style of solid stop leak be a potential cause for other things getting stopped up in the cooling system? This LM stuff reminds me of tubeless tire sealant in mountainbike tires - liquid carrier with latex and cornmeal that when released through leaks/holes seals them somewhat permanently. This stuff doesn't look like it has solids in it to me but those green fleks almost look like glitter.....and you know folks have used glitter in the before mentioned tubeless tire sealant as the "chunkulator"...
If used as directed, I seriously doubt it. IIRC there are/were automakers that use ginger root based stop leak products in new vehicles rolling off the line to prevent leaks until the engines have gone through enough heat/cooling cycles due to the use of dissimilar metals used in modern engines. Perhaps @Trav can weigh in and explain it a little better.
 
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JHZR2

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Bar's stop leak tablets the one made from ginger root. That would be my choice, until I had the time for the proper repair.
Agree, was going to say the same. At least I know what it is, how it works, and what it looks like when it settles. Most folks use too heavy a dose. Just a little bit is needed, imo.

Im interested in what the LM stuff is and how it performs, but I don’t think I’d have the guts to use it.
 
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delco/bar’s tabs version should be tried first

you use the silica solutions if you have a cracked block or something serious
 
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In 2011, my 9 month old all aluminum radiator started seeping where the vertical tubes met the bottom tank.

1 bars leak ginger root tab stopped the seeping, and after I'd drain and refill the radiator every other year, seeping would slowly restart, and one more tab would stop it.

I did begin to have some heater core issues in 2017, just low heat, but flushed and backflushed it into almost normal expected heat output after noticing the lack of heat in 17f weather. There could be blend door sealing issues regarding that too.

Last December, I had the PS pump off. The PS bracket bolts penetrate the water jacket, so I drained radiator again and drained to lowermost bolt.
While the radiator was drained i cleaned the bottom tube/tank mating area, where the seeping occurred.

I thinned regular JB weld with 91% rubbing alcohol, and sucked it into a syringe.
I injected it into the cleaned area where all the former seeping existed, before the bars leak tabs stopped it.

I refilled the system, and did not add a single bars leak tab, as had become habit when doing as drain and fill.
Drove cross country twice.
It's not lost a drop of coolant.
Heater working about 90% of expected.

but I keep the bars leak gingerroot tabs in the glove box, and will have no issues using them again if I start noticing coolant loss.

Stop leak tabs always have the chicken little's spending all your money replacing everything and predicting your imminent demise.

I believe the 91% IPA alcohol to be an imperfect JB weld thinner. I think xylene would be much better for this task.
But perhaps the 9% purified water in the 91% IPA, makes the cured JB weld just soft and flexible enough to make my 'patch' last two cross country journeys.
 

TiGeo

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Have you looked at the coolant since pouring in, does it change the look, foggy or discolored?
Ok, looked this morning. Looks same G13 pink color however there is some other material floating on top in a few places...likely the stop leak waiting to do some work!
 
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IMO Barr's is the best, works every time. Haven't tried Liqui Moly though,,,it could be good too. Back in about 1980 I was a mechanic at a local Shell service station. We sold Barr's and the silver powder stuff in a tube. Someone came in with a leak around the neck of their Radiator (metal not plastic) and didn't want it repaired correctly just wanted stop leak. We were out of Barr's so I put in the silver stuff not expecting much, it kind of just floated on the top of the water...but when I put the cap on it, the silver stuff (now melted) pushed out of the crack, spread out a little and solidified stopping the leak right before my eyes. I was shocked. I saw them again weeks later and they said it was still holding. I still think Barr's is the best though.
 
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Wouldn't this style of solid stop leak be a potential cause for other things getting stopped up in the cooling system? This LM stuff reminds me of tubeless tire sealant in mountainbike tires - liquid carrier with latex and cornmeal that when released through leaks/holes seals them somewhat permanently. This stuff doesn't look like it has solids in it to me but those green fleks almost look like glitter.....and you know folks have used glitter in the before mentioned tubeless tire sealant as the "chunkulator"...
Speaking of tubeless tires, had myself a nice 1/4 inch gash on my rear tire. Got the sealant to work its way into it and rode out of the trail. Got home, added 3 ounces of Stans...let it sit overnight...and I've now ridden 70 miles on rocky, root singled track since. No leak. I'm shocked that it could close up a gash that big. Saved me from having to buy a tire or putting a heavy tube in it.

So I'm not surprised your leak is fixed with the Moly stuff. Keep an eye on it, worst case scenario you add more, or get it it replaced. JB Weld is great for external stuff. I've used it on gas tanks that had no business being fixed/sealed...if it can handle gas, it can handle anything. Used it in radiators too.
 

TiGeo

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Speaking of tubeless tires, had myself a nice 1/4 inch gash on my rear tire. Got the sealant to work its way into it and rode out of the trail. Got home, added 3 ounces of Stans...let it sit overnight...and I've now ridden 70 miles on rocky, root singled track since. No leak. I'm shocked that it could close up a gash that big. Saved me from having to buy a tire or putting a heavy tube in it.

So I'm not surprised your leak is fixed with the Moly stuff. Keep an eye on it, worst case scenario you add more, or get it it replaced. JB Weld is great for external stuff. I've used it on gas tanks that had no business being fixed/sealed...if it can handle gas, it can handle anything. Used it in radiators too.
Stan's is great stuff....I actually make my own tubeless sealant if you can believe it.....works the same.
 

TiGeo

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I would pour in some UV leak detector. Show the dealer.
If it doesn't leak during a pressure test it's a no-go. UV die? There was white dried coolant splattered all over....still no leak during test. This sorted it. Less hassle/headache for me.
 
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If it doesn't leak during a pressure test it's a no-go. UV die? There was white dried coolant splattered all over....still no leak during test. This sorted it. Less hassle/headache for me.
The pressure test is done with the engine cold or warm, but not hot. It may only leak when the engine is hot.
 

TiGeo

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The pressure test is done with the engine cold or warm, but not hot. It may only leak when the engine is hot.
That would be correct. It will get changed at some point when I pull the intake mani to walnut blast the valves and change it out for MPI/big turbo. Just not that worried about it. The time and effort it takes to get things covered under a warranty, especially when you have modified your car, just isn't worth the hassle sometimes.
 
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