Liqui-Moly Oil Saver + 0w-20 5qts = 5w30ish?

Joined
Jul 8, 2021
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355
Location
SoCal
I have an '06 Pathfinder that's starting to seep a little oil, and instead of running a high-mileage oil I thought I'd run some LM oil-saver as an alternative plus 0w-20 (since the LM would act as a thickener?) so that viscosity comes down to being a comparable 0/5w30 but a bit more frictionless.

Stupid idea?
 
That’s a pretty small bottle added to 5qts to be changing grade. How about 5w30 hm if you want a 30 grade?
 
Yes. I know it's not Canada, but when I switched my brother's 5w-20 2011 Civic to 0w20 I could tell right away it was having a much better time starting. Same with my 2015 Sentra - I thought 5w20 would be a fine alternative since it's not freezing temps here in SoCal but it felt sluggish since I did that oil change. Switched back to 0w20 and all was normal again (might even go 0w16 for ****s and giggles on the next oil change)
 
Yes. I know it's not Canada, but when I switched my brother's 5w-20 2011 Civic to 0w20 I could tell right away it was having a much better time starting.
In the temp range you're going to experience in SoCal, the KV40 should be a pretty close indicator of the start up viscosity and the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 is virtually nil, any difference in startup you noticed is all in your head, I live in a place that actually gets cold and my battery died last winter and my straight 6 Trrailblazer flew right over with no hesitation with a mix of 5w30 and 5w40 in the sump with a marginal battery, in SoCal there should be virtually no difference in startup performance of any ILSAC multigrade oil.
 
I'd skip the LM product and run an HM oil, you might get lucky. The truth is odds are if it's a VC leak the gasket should be replaced.
 
I wish I had not made so many pain in the butt repairs that a valve cover gasket made me hesitate. 😁
 
Insane topic. You don't need 0W-20 in SoCal for that engine, any "cold" oil thickness reduction during your virtually non-existent winters is countered more so by the resultant hot oil viscosity.

You do not need high mileage oil for valve cover leakage, just replace the valve cover gaskets or live with it.

It's all a waste of energy and money, just use a quality 5W-30 and be done.
 
Insane topic. You don't need 0W-20 in SoCal for that engine, any "cold" oil thickness reduction during your virtually non-existent winters is countered more so by the resultant hot oil viscosity.

You do not need high mileage oil for valve cover leakage, just replace the valve cover gaskets or live with it.

It's all a waste of energy and money, just use a quality 5W-30 and be done.
SoCal isn't all David Hasselhoff and Baywatch

It does snow in SoCal. Believe it or not, there are ski resorts in SoCal, within 2 hours from the beach, just driving east.

And when it's snowing the suckers with 2WD and especially 2WD SUV's need to put chains on when Caltrans says you need to
 
^ Oil doesn't care about snow, only how cold it gets. Is it dropping below 10F every winter? Does here, I've had no problem with 5W-30 in that environment.
 
Can anybody tell me if LM oil saver will have any ill effects on a new rear main seal ? I added it to my engine because of a rear main seal leak. As it turns out my transmission needed rebuilt and they are gonna go ahead and put a new rear main seal in.
Should I change my oil and get that stuff out of there or will I be ok ? Thanks in advanced.
 
Can anybody tell me if LM oil saver will have any ill effects on a new rear main seal ? I added it to my engine because of a rear main seal leak. As it turns out my transmission needed rebuilt and they are gonna go ahead and put a new rear main seal in.
Should I change my oil and get that stuff out of there or will I be ok ? Thanks in advanced.
LM Oil Saver should only be used every 20,000 miles and NOT as a preventative maintenance additive. If you had seeps and leaks use it, but in your case you might be better served to drain the oil or if they are going to do the RMS soon, then just provide them with the oil to refill.
 
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