So, I take it you have the same approach to HPL or any other boutique brand?
Other folks love getting oil cheaper. It’s still low cost even for boutique. 
They chose the naming to make it easier for the employees to know which label gets loaded into the machine during bottling.
Engine cleanliness and the ability to hold off an oil change
Do Mobil 1 EP, Castrol Edge EP, etc not also provide the same benefits?
They may for some applications.
Yeah I’d rather spend the money on steaks. If it were so spectacular it would be in a Bentley
Depends, I think the SS line of Amsoil is ahead of these as I do with Redline HP oil as well. Even if say M1 EP or VRP do clean, they certainly won't have the shear stability or improved performance characteristics ratings of my two suggested alternatives
The quality of an oil has almost nothing to do with whether or not it’s the factory fill of a particular car. You do realize that the choice of factory fill is mostly based on brand recognition and a great deal from the bean counters from that oil company.
Unfortunately, sometimes I think people get the idea that they can just throw an engine oil in an automobile and forget about it. Exxon had a product that was marketed for annual use and it Tanked. I think people using products that have extended drain interval properties still need to be mindful of going out on a weekly basis and checking their oil and topping off accordingly as all engines consume some oil. Amsoil really shines only in their premium Signature Series and with a vehicle that has a larger oil pan capacity and is naturally aspirated. I think my mom's CRV only holds like 3.5 quarts of oil, and yes I would have no problem using Amsoil signature, but that l15 motor is a fuel deluder and I don't think I would push it the full 10 or 20,000 mile. Now on an old Honda Accord from the 1990s, with a premium oil filter and a non-oiled air filter just putting down the road at 70 mph on the highway, I would run it 10 or 20,000 miles and wouldn't change anything only add oil if it needed it and that's it. I wish those days were back now so much LOL
Excellent comment. They have to put enough of an oil into the automobile to get it off the showroom floor just like the majority of the tires they put on cars are not meant to go 100,000 miles like my yokohama's did on my Honda. I think people who really understand cars, do some research and they find out that the services on some of these Exotics are so expensive that they end up and just let the car sit inside the garage till the old fart that bought it dies. If I had a sports car with a price tag of over $75,000 maybe even less, and I was interested in giving my car a Performance Edge over other people with the same car, from the night I bought the car I would already be at home looking up websites of world-renowned and respected Boutique engine oils and sending out email and calling and asking if they have a product that can be used in my application and if so what data sheets can they provide and Technical information to show me that they offer a more robust product
Just remember, a lot of Porsche were filled with Mobil 1 0w40 and videos were coming out by greased hair glasses wearing Tribologists showing it was barely a 40w and it didn't take much to shake it down. So, you go ahead and eat your steak if you like roadkill or chuck at Texas Outhouse.
All right I'll play The Devil's Advocate. You might be right to some extent, but do drivers of automobiles operate and adequate conditions? Do you give your car 30 seconds after you started up drive it no less than 15 to 20 minutes on the highway? Do you not do any stop and go or excessive idling? Do you have any performance parts or modifications or do you have any intentions to operate the vehicle in a manner that would be considered operating in excessive power and speed if you are written a citation by law enforcement? Do you live anywhere like in Oklahoma where they have that red clay mess everywhere or somewhere where it's extremely sandy? These are not questions that I've thought up of to intimidate or harass or try to start an argument. The point of this was 99% of owners do not operate their cars in anything close to being adequate as far as the car manufacturers are concerned. (I might be that 1%
) Lately we have seen automobiles turn to severe operation oil change intervals on the computer Management Systems of automobiles. Owners are finding out that their cars cannot make it on the 10,000 mile suggested meter that the car tells them it can. What I'm trying to get to is sometimes we have to do a number of alternative methods to give our cars a better opportunity for a longer life because many factors kick in like living in a province or state or the taxes on a new vehicle or just too expensive. It's much cheaper usually and I say usually to a repair and automobile. Methods like reducing the oil change interval by a third or half, upgrading to boutique fluids, going up a oil weight viscosity during the summer or with high miles to reduce consumption and using oil additives like motor oil saver or Schaeffer's Moly additive. As far as the CVT transmission goes, you can add a product like the BG CVT 303 with OEM fluid and prepare to change it about every 10,000 miles or like I did and use the red line PAO CVT fluid did I have to buy in a case for $200 and I'm now at 400,000 miles on the original CVT which is unheard of. Fluid is always cheaper than transmissions. Actually, you are right, I stand corrected. Cost does matter. I was just trying to show that I am willing to give the price for the Molygen over the Castrol GTX full synthetic. This Castrol being the lowest grade of what they call "full synthetic" engine oil by current USA standards. Castrol offers 5 full synthetic choices all the way up to their Gold bottle 25,000 mile OCI oil. This GTX I chose here is their bottom 10,000 mile oil but still has the latest API SQ- ILSAC GF7 spec ratings. If I was going to make my own choice without considering my local Toyota dealer's Service Manager's guidance, I would run a 5w-30 full synthetic possibly non-API Royal Purple HPS or the Liqui Moly Top Tec 4600. I ran both of those in my previous car, a 2015 Honda CRV I purchase new from the same dealership here in town. I really like both of those oils, the way they made that little 2.4L engine sound and act. Small differences, but definitely noticeable if the car was your daily driver and you were tuned it to its sound and performance. Anyhow, cost does matter. Besides that, it seems shameful to pour an engine oil out at 5000 miles or 6 months like Red Line or Amsoil. It just seems wasteful to me. And besides that, I won't that much for a quart of engine oil.
I know what you say is true, Cpt. Barky, but I truly enjoy the "engine oil debate" that goes on here. I also know there are differences in engine oils that can cause noticeable performance differences in vehicles even when the weights and ratings are the same. I enjoy this stuff.
You know in a way it is kind of sleazy what Castrol, Amsoil and most others do, because "most" people walking by being influenced by advertising don't take the time to read the asterisk points.
This is nothing compared to what Purolator was advertising for the Boss efficiency compared to their own spec sheets….or Triax printing approvals on the bottle that contradict each other.
