Lincoln Town Car 3,000 miles Mobil 1 EP 5w30 4.6L

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A guy I follow on YouTube posted his recent UOA on his 4.6 Lincoln Town Car. Ran 3000 miles on Mobil 1 EP 5w30. I found some of the numbers a little off compared to what I usually see in this sight. The viscosity seems really low for EP at only 3000 miles... He said he was testing a k&n that's why I think the silicon was high. Moly seems a little off to... What do you guys think? I didn't think EP would of broke down that fast
 

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Silicon is high. Like you ran it with no filter for a while. High silicon can also be from recent excessive use of silicone sealer type products. What did you use, The Right Stuff?
 
Silicon is high. Like you ran it with no filter for a while. High silicon can also be from recent excessive use of silicone sealer type products. What did you use, The Right Stuff?
He ran it with a k&n filter for the whole OCI which is why the silicon is probably high...
 
He ran it with a k&n filter for the whole OCI which is why the silicon is probably high...
Oil report indicates high silicon not likely a filtration wear issue, generally meaning another source of silicon. Fresh overuse of silicone sealer/adhesive will do that. Why would a K&N filter cause high silicon numbers?
 
Because they're rock catchers.
Oh. How things change. They use to be overly restrictive to the point of causing poor running in certain cars. I would never use a K&N filter then and still would not.
 
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Oil report indicates high silicon not likely a filtration wear issue, generally meaning another source of silicon. Fresh overuse of silicone sealer/adhesive will do that. Why would a K&N filter cause high silicon numbers?
Think they are saying despite the poor air filtration the wear metals were not bad … who knows … iron could have been 10 with an OEM air filter …
 
Think they are saying despite the poor air filtration the wear metals were not bad … who knows … iron could have been 10 with an OEM air filter …
I think you right.
 
I think they used 5W20
He had a video I believe of him actually using 5w30
 
Either blackstone totally dropped the ball (believeable) or that's 5W20.
I can't see it mechanically shearing that bad, and if it was fuel dilution I'd expect a severely depressed flashpoint.
 
With the moly level as high as it is, I wonder if the previous oil was a high moly 5W20 and he just didn't do a good job of letting it all drain out before putting in the M1 EP 5W30.
 
Oh. How things change. They use to be overly restrictive to the point of causing poor running in certain cars. I would never use a K&N filter then and still would not.

On the contrary. People installed K&N air filters for less restriction and "more" power. Any issues with K&N were typically due to over oiling after the unit was cleaned by the DIY'er. It's the oil's job to capture the dirt, etc. Maybe more oil is better.....LOL
I've run the same one on my ATV for 20 years (2001 modded 400EX). It's worked well with the overbore and carb/exhaust mods. I typically run a pre-filter sock over it if it's dry outside and there is more dust - literally and old cut up sock.

We're currently looking for an intake set up for the Stinger. Planning on a dry filter media model.

Regarding the UOA - What a waste of EP (which doesn't appear to be a 30 grade).
 
I had the 4.6 in a 2000 MGM, and from what i remember, the engine is very easy on oil. never burned a drop, and its not working hard either, even at WOT, with its 5000 ish RPM redline and super long gearing the engine was never over taxed, and i actually felt it could go alot higher, but it does not make much more HP above 5K anyways. That motor is more for the low end torque and rock solid reliability and will last hundreds of thousands of miles with out breaking a sweat, even red lined on the daily with 15K OCI.. I still see the 4.6L's around with 20+ years under their belt sound just as smooth as day one.

As a note on K&N oiled type filter, i had one installed on the 05 XG350L ( thats hyundai's upscale sonata for the time lol) with hyundai's most powerful engine ever offered in 2005 the 195HP 218 lb Tq DOHC 3.5L for over 50K miles, and the engine never burned a drop of M1 synthetic oil even being red lined every day, nor did it give me MAF problems... Looking back now i would of NEVER used a oil type, but being young, and not knowing any better.... So now im years older, and now only use k&n dry flow (aem) without oil. Here proof from late 2007 with about 50-ish K miles, you can see the "stop" k&n sticker :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Something is shady here. Highly unlikely M1 5-30 EP is going to shear like that in THAT easy on oil engine. Not at 3k OCI for sure.
 
On the contrary. People installed K&N air filters for less restriction and "more" power. Any issues with K&N were typically due to over oiling after the unit was cleaned by the DIY'er. It's the oil's job to capture the dirt, etc. Maybe more oil is better.....LOL
I've run the same one on my ATV for 20 years (2001 modded 400EX). It's worked well with the overbore and carb/exhaust mods. I typically run a pre-filter sock over it if it's dry outside and there is more dust - literally and old cut up sock.

We're currently looking for an intake set up for the Stinger. Planning on a dry filter media model.

Regarding the UOA - What a waste of EP (which doesn't appear to be a 30 grade).
That is your take on K&N marketing. I am fully aware people buy them for the promise of less restriction + better filtration, which is why I pointed out that on certain setups the are so restrictive as to cause poor running due entirely to over restriction--right out of the box! My take on K&N marketing is there is a sucker born every minute, and they love them a K&N filter and don't listen to nobody else about nothin. Running a pre-filter is always good advice for any sort of filter media.
 
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