Lifespan of weedwacker
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I rember reading on echo or still's web site that the expected life span is about 2ooo hrs. If you keep the mantiance up on them.
Inmho if your not getting the designed life, i would supect the oil mixture is too lean.
Inmho if your not getting the designed life, i would supect the oil mixture is too lean.
I just threw out my 1982 Poulan (sp?) weed eater that worked perfect for 32 years. The engine just finally seized. I ran it WOT all the time 40:1 mix valvoline 2 cycle oil and new spark plug every 4-5 years. I think when my 1982 B&S lawnmower finally died
it was broken hearted...
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Scorched piston sounds like running lean, or incorrect oil mixture on a 2-stroke. In my experience (a little) extra quality 2-stroke oil is better than too little, and premium gas is always a good idea, too.
Am I the only one who sets idle to around 4000-4500rpm (rather than the factory 3000rpm) and never touches the throttle unless it's needed? It just putters along with good power while letting the string do the work. I don't think I've had mine at WOT for more than 60 minutes out of the last 24 years I've owned it. The only time I really rev it up it is to do edging.
Fast enough to keep the clutch locked up, any extra as required to get the work done.
If you can do your trimming with it only going fast enough to engauge the clutch you shouldn't ever wear out a box stor trimmer in a million years. However weed eaters are designed to be run at full throttle. So if instead of just putting you box store trimmer along you ran it full throttle, it would still last a million years.
Most problems people have with two stroke stuff is running junk gas/oil through them or not tuning them right.
Most problems people have with two stroke stuff is running junk gas/oil through them or not tuning them right.
In the past 11 years, I've owned two Echo trimmers. I bought a GT-200R used about 10 years ago. I ran it until last summer. Great little curved shaft trimmer. Last year, I bought a PE-250 edger to complement the trimmer. The edger got stolen about a month later while I was on a job.
So I replaced both with a new PAS-225 last summer. I have the edger attachment and the straight shaft trimmer attachment. I expect a long service life from it. I just sold the GT-200R a few weekends ago for 50 bucks, still running like it did when it was new. I started running Trufuel in it for the last few seasons. I think it burns much cleaner than the fuel I mixed.
I set the idle on my 2-strokes about as low as they'll go and still run smooth. They just putter along, quiet as can be. I sneak enough throttle to get the trimmer or edger head spinning without bogging. The edger takes more throttle, especially when cutting through thicker growth, probably 75% or so. The trimmer can get by on just a crack of the throttle (maybe 25%). I do rev it frequently while walking across the lawn, to keep it "cleaned out", but I've never had any issues operating it like this.
Because of my excellent experience with Echo, I bought a handheld leaf blower (ES-250) late last season. That's been real nice; first time I've owned one, and I use it often. It's got the shred-and-vac attachment that lets me suck up leaves and bag. It's useful for sucking leaves out of mulch beds and the like.
So that's my story. I've never had a handheld piece of equipment to actually wear out. Lifespan on a quality piece of equipment like an Echo or a Stihl should be as long as you care to own it. A bad piece of equipment is probably bad luck. A string of dead equipment may be something else at play.
So I replaced both with a new PAS-225 last summer. I have the edger attachment and the straight shaft trimmer attachment. I expect a long service life from it. I just sold the GT-200R a few weekends ago for 50 bucks, still running like it did when it was new. I started running Trufuel in it for the last few seasons. I think it burns much cleaner than the fuel I mixed.
I set the idle on my 2-strokes about as low as they'll go and still run smooth. They just putter along, quiet as can be. I sneak enough throttle to get the trimmer or edger head spinning without bogging. The edger takes more throttle, especially when cutting through thicker growth, probably 75% or so. The trimmer can get by on just a crack of the throttle (maybe 25%). I do rev it frequently while walking across the lawn, to keep it "cleaned out", but I've never had any issues operating it like this.
Because of my excellent experience with Echo, I bought a handheld leaf blower (ES-250) late last season. That's been real nice; first time I've owned one, and I use it often. It's got the shred-and-vac attachment that lets me suck up leaves and bag. It's useful for sucking leaves out of mulch beds and the like.
So that's my story. I've never had a handheld piece of equipment to actually wear out. Lifespan on a quality piece of equipment like an Echo or a Stihl should be as long as you care to own it. A bad piece of equipment is probably bad luck. A string of dead equipment may be something else at play.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
And by the way-my DR trimmer runs at full throttle every time I use it. My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
I think there's a mis-conception here as well. You can probably say that you run equipment at WOT if you directly control the throttle (as with a chain saw or a handheld trimmer). But you don't directly control the throttle on a DR Trimmer, or on a pressure washer, or on a lawn mower. And these items rarely run at WOT. You may run them at full rated speed (which is in the neighborhood of 3000-3400 rpm for a walk behind mower for example), but that doesn't mean full throttle. The small engines have governors on them that run the engine at the speed you set with the lever (if you have a "throttle control" lever), and it will use just the throttle that is necessary to maintain that engine speed. A "throttle control" lever on equipment like this is really an "engine speed control" lever.
I would say with a high degree of certainty that you actually don't run your DR Trimmer or pressure washer or lawn mower at WOT. The engines would overspeed and fail in short order if you actually did.
And by the way-my DR trimmer runs at full throttle every time I use it. My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
I think there's a mis-conception here as well. You can probably say that you run equipment at WOT if you directly control the throttle (as with a chain saw or a handheld trimmer). But you don't directly control the throttle on a DR Trimmer, or on a pressure washer, or on a lawn mower. And these items rarely run at WOT. You may run them at full rated speed (which is in the neighborhood of 3000-3400 rpm for a walk behind mower for example), but that doesn't mean full throttle. The small engines have governors on them that run the engine at the speed you set with the lever (if you have a "throttle control" lever), and it will use just the throttle that is necessary to maintain that engine speed. A "throttle control" lever on equipment like this is really an "engine speed control" lever.
I would say with a high degree of certainty that you actually don't run your DR Trimmer or pressure washer or lawn mower at WOT. The engines would overspeed and fail in short order if you actually did.
All of my 2-stroke lawn equipment is Husqvarna and I own alot of it.
4-chainsaws (all XP pro models)
2- string trimmers
1 hedge trimmer
2 blowers, 1 hand held and 1 backpack
1 pole saw
I'm lucky enough to live close to a local airport that I can walk onto the flightline and purchase LL100 AVGas, you just use your debit card and when it ask for the tail number punch in "cash"
My 2 -stroke oil is Klotz R50 and this is the mosr important part.. MIXED VERY PRECISELY @ 50:1
Don't use "a little extra oil" the equipment is designed to run @ 50:1
Not 40:1
Not 32:1
Not 25:1
The last time I even changed a spark plug was 8 years ago and all of the equipment is at least 10 years old. In anticipation of the upcoming season last weekend I started everything up for spring check-up. The longest to start was the hedge trimmers with 4 pulls, everything else started in 2 or 3.
2-strokes have two throttle positions, Idle & Wide Open.
4-chainsaws (all XP pro models)
2- string trimmers
1 hedge trimmer
2 blowers, 1 hand held and 1 backpack
1 pole saw
I'm lucky enough to live close to a local airport that I can walk onto the flightline and purchase LL100 AVGas, you just use your debit card and when it ask for the tail number punch in "cash"
My 2 -stroke oil is Klotz R50 and this is the mosr important part.. MIXED VERY PRECISELY @ 50:1
Don't use "a little extra oil" the equipment is designed to run @ 50:1
Not 40:1
Not 32:1
Not 25:1
The last time I even changed a spark plug was 8 years ago and all of the equipment is at least 10 years old. In anticipation of the upcoming season last weekend I started everything up for spring check-up. The longest to start was the hedge trimmers with 4 pulls, everything else started in 2 or 3.
2-strokes have two throttle positions, Idle & Wide Open.
Originally Posted By: 1foxracing
My 2 -stroke oil is Klotz R50 and this is the mosr important part.. MIXED VERY PRECISELY @ 50:1
Don't use "a little extra oil" the equipment is designed to run @ 50:1
Not 40:1
Not 32:1
Not 25:1
The last time I even changed a spark plug was 8 years ago and all of the equipment is at least 10 years old. In anticipation of the upcoming season last weekend I started everything up for spring check-up. The longest to start was the hedge trimmers with 4 pulls, everything else started in 2 or 3.
2-strokes have two throttle positions, Idle & Wide Open.
Exactly. If you are using an oil that is meant for hand held two stroke equipment you don't need to mix 32:1. The oil is better and the engines are better than 50 years ago. Anything more than the manufactures recommendations isn't helpfully is more hurtful than anything. It is like putting a straight 30 weight in a new Cadillac. You can do it but what is the point.
I have read on other forums that Stihl has even done studies on their equipment and found that the amount of oil needed is way less than 50:1. I think it was somewhere less than 100:1 but they even weren't comfortable with that and said that 70:1 would be doable.
My 2 -stroke oil is Klotz R50 and this is the mosr important part.. MIXED VERY PRECISELY @ 50:1
Don't use "a little extra oil" the equipment is designed to run @ 50:1
Not 40:1
Not 32:1
Not 25:1
The last time I even changed a spark plug was 8 years ago and all of the equipment is at least 10 years old. In anticipation of the upcoming season last weekend I started everything up for spring check-up. The longest to start was the hedge trimmers with 4 pulls, everything else started in 2 or 3.
2-strokes have two throttle positions, Idle & Wide Open.
Exactly. If you are using an oil that is meant for hand held two stroke equipment you don't need to mix 32:1. The oil is better and the engines are better than 50 years ago. Anything more than the manufactures recommendations isn't helpfully is more hurtful than anything. It is like putting a straight 30 weight in a new Cadillac. You can do it but what is the point.
I have read on other forums that Stihl has even done studies on their equipment and found that the amount of oil needed is way less than 50:1. I think it was somewhere less than 100:1 but they even weren't comfortable with that and said that 70:1 would be doable.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
And by the way-my DR trimmer runs at full throttle every time I use it. My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
I think there's a mis-conception here as well.
Thanks Hokiefyd. Pop_Rivit....your attitude left a bad taste in my mouth. So I left this thread.
I guarantee I've rebuilt more 2-strokes than you've owned by a factor of 100.
If you buy junk 2-stroke oil....you will have problems. If you buy good stuff, you can run your hand held 2-stroke OPE's at very low speeds without any problems.
A previous poster recommended Klotz. Decent stuff. I've had the best results with Redline, Maxima K2, and Torco....in that order. Internals looks BRAND NEW after 100 hours using these 3 oils.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
And by the way-my DR trimmer runs at full throttle every time I use it. My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
I think there's a mis-conception here as well.
Thanks Hokiefyd. Pop_Rivit....your attitude left a bad taste in my mouth. So I left this thread.
I guarantee I've rebuilt more 2-strokes than you've owned by a factor of 100.
If you buy junk 2-stroke oil....you will have problems. If you buy good stuff, you can run your hand held 2-stroke OPE's at very low speeds without any problems.
A previous poster recommended Klotz. Decent stuff. I've had the best results with Redline, Maxima K2, and Torco....in that order. Internals looks BRAND NEW after 100 hours using these 3 oils.
I noticed that hokiefyd mentioned that his pressure washer and lawn mower run wide open throttle all the time. Unless he has bypassed the governor, they are nowhere near wide open throttle.
^^^ was just going to say that. i thought WOT meant wide open throttle, in which case the throttle blade is completely open which is not the case for lots of things. so that's an apples to oranges comparison.
did anybody say what constitutes a failure? the original poster said his weedwacker blew in a year- blew the piston/rod/crank or doesn't start because of a dirty carb or lost the weedwacker head because of loss of lubrication?
and i would completely disagree that a 2-stroke needs wot or near that to run properly or that it was designed to. as long as you have quality oil and enough of it a lower speed than wide-open (2000 rpm vs 6000 rpm) would be better simply because less wear would happen over time- the piston ring scrapes the cylinder wall less times. running the engine cold or with improper mixture/oil is what causes carbon buildup and those kinds of problems, and that is largely rpm independent.
did anybody say what constitutes a failure? the original poster said his weedwacker blew in a year- blew the piston/rod/crank or doesn't start because of a dirty carb or lost the weedwacker head because of loss of lubrication?
and i would completely disagree that a 2-stroke needs wot or near that to run properly or that it was designed to. as long as you have quality oil and enough of it a lower speed than wide-open (2000 rpm vs 6000 rpm) would be better simply because less wear would happen over time- the piston ring scrapes the cylinder wall less times. running the engine cold or with improper mixture/oil is what causes carbon buildup and those kinds of problems, and that is largely rpm independent.
^^^ Yep.
And exactly....WOT is not what a pushmower does, unless you do some tinkering. To weedwack around a tree or house or flower bush, why have your trimmer at WOT? I laugh when I see people do this. Will it hurt anything? Probably not. Is it complete overkill? Absolutely.
I have a 1988 15HP Johnson 2-stroke outboard that has over 2500 hours on it. Over 99% of it's life, it's been used for trolling....which, in case you aren't a fisherman, means it's been in gear with the throttle just cracked open.
And exactly....WOT is not what a pushmower does, unless you do some tinkering. To weedwack around a tree or house or flower bush, why have your trimmer at WOT? I laugh when I see people do this. Will it hurt anything? Probably not. Is it complete overkill? Absolutely.
I have a 1988 15HP Johnson 2-stroke outboard that has over 2500 hours on it. Over 99% of it's life, it's been used for trolling....which, in case you aren't a fisherman, means it's been in gear with the throttle just cracked open.
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Originally Posted By: old1
I noticed that hokiefyd mentioned that his pressure washer and lawn mower run wide open throttle all the time. Unless he has bypassed the governor, they are nowhere near wide open throttle.
No, Pop_Rivit said that. I corrected that misconception, saying that his pressure washer and lawn mower do NOT run at WOT. This was my original post:
I think there's a mis-conception here as well. You can probably say that you run equipment at WOT if you directly control the throttle (as with a chain saw or a handheld trimmer). But you don't directly control the throttle on a DR Trimmer, or on a pressure washer, or on a lawn mower. And these items rarely run at WOT. You may run them at full rated speed (which is in the neighborhood of 3000-3400 rpm for a walk behind mower for example), but that doesn't mean full throttle. The small engines have governors on them that run the engine at the speed you set with the lever (if you have a "throttle control" lever), and it will use just the throttle that is necessary to maintain that engine speed. A "throttle control" lever on equipment like this is really an "engine speed control" lever.
I would say with a high degree of certainty that you actually don't run your DR Trimmer or pressure washer or lawn mower at WOT. The engines would overspeed and fail in short order if you actually did.
I noticed that hokiefyd mentioned that his pressure washer and lawn mower run wide open throttle all the time. Unless he has bypassed the governor, they are nowhere near wide open throttle.
No, Pop_Rivit said that. I corrected that misconception, saying that his pressure washer and lawn mower do NOT run at WOT. This was my original post:
I think there's a mis-conception here as well. You can probably say that you run equipment at WOT if you directly control the throttle (as with a chain saw or a handheld trimmer). But you don't directly control the throttle on a DR Trimmer, or on a pressure washer, or on a lawn mower. And these items rarely run at WOT. You may run them at full rated speed (which is in the neighborhood of 3000-3400 rpm for a walk behind mower for example), but that doesn't mean full throttle. The small engines have governors on them that run the engine at the speed you set with the lever (if you have a "throttle control" lever), and it will use just the throttle that is necessary to maintain that engine speed. A "throttle control" lever on equipment like this is really an "engine speed control" lever.
I would say with a high degree of certainty that you actually don't run your DR Trimmer or pressure washer or lawn mower at WOT. The engines would overspeed and fail in short order if you actually did.
The guy was refering to the throttle lever not the butterfly in the carb.
Originally Posted By: jhellwig
The guy was refering to the throttle lever not the butterfly in the carb.
I assume so, but that's an important distinction to make. That's why I said that it's really more of a "relative engine speed" control lever than a "throttle" lever.
The guy was refering to the throttle lever not the butterfly in the carb.
I assume so, but that's an important distinction to make. That's why I said that it's really more of a "relative engine speed" control lever than a "throttle" lever.
Everybody refers to it as the throttle. Only the hair splitting ocders here would debate it.
And arguing someones argument just because the used a word that was technicaly incorrect for what they were refering to is retarded and pointless. It goes right along with telling people ther argument is invaled just because of missuse of grammar or spelling. Everyone knew what the person ment.
And arguing someones argument just because the used a word that was technicaly incorrect for what they were refering to is retarded and pointless. It goes right along with telling people ther argument is invaled just because of missuse of grammar or spelling. Everyone knew what the person ment.
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I guess we'll agree to disagree. He was using lawn mower engines being designed to run at full throttle to extend a discussion point. This is what he said:
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
They are all designed to do so.
Sorry, they're not all designed to run at WOT. It's like saying that your transmission is designed to run in high gear all the time because you put it in "D" instead of 1, 2, or 3. If something is factually incorrect, I believe it's well within reason to correct it. I assume he didn't mean to say that they run at full throttle, and that he was merely talking about the control lever, but I don't know that for a fact. He might have had a valid misunderstanding. And maybe now, he doesn't.
I'm surprised there's so much discussion about this. Nobody called Pop_Rivit a name. Nobody questioned his intelligence. Nobody personally attacked him. A factually incorrect statement was corrected. In my opinion, the least we can do as positive participants of a discussion board is to watch out for each other and add corrections and clarification where needed.
I don't think that's "retarded" at all.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
My chainsaw runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My pressure washer runs at wide open throttle every time I use it. My mower runs at wide open throttle every time I use them.
They are all designed to do so.
Sorry, they're not all designed to run at WOT. It's like saying that your transmission is designed to run in high gear all the time because you put it in "D" instead of 1, 2, or 3. If something is factually incorrect, I believe it's well within reason to correct it. I assume he didn't mean to say that they run at full throttle, and that he was merely talking about the control lever, but I don't know that for a fact. He might have had a valid misunderstanding. And maybe now, he doesn't.
I'm surprised there's so much discussion about this. Nobody called Pop_Rivit a name. Nobody questioned his intelligence. Nobody personally attacked him. A factually incorrect statement was corrected. In my opinion, the least we can do as positive participants of a discussion board is to watch out for each other and add corrections and clarification where needed.
I don't think that's "retarded" at all.
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