Let's talk accessory drive noise (Tacoma)

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OK, here's the issue: Truck: 2007 Tacoma V6, 124,000 miles, bought new June 2007. Use - normal use, never off-road, except down a gravel road once in a while when I go dirt bike riding. Serp. belt: Factory. Never been replaced. Accessories: None have ever been touched. All stock. Problem 1: Slight squeaking on startup, especially if it's a cool morning. Stops once the engine warms up. Only does it when the engine has been off overnite. Problem 2: A whine that sounds similar to a failed pwr steering pump, but not as loud. Seems like it's the pwr steering pump. Seems as if it's gotten louder over the last few months. No leaks, never been run low on fluid. Only variable is that I've been changing out the fluid in the reservoir every few months over the last year, using the Turkey Baster method. I just suck out the old, and refill. Been using Castrol Dexron VI. Not sure if it's the pump or a bearing. My questions for y'all are: Does this sound familiar to any of y'all? Has anyone had these problems and successfully fixed them? I don't mind changing the belt. It still looks fine to me, but I don't mind going ahead and changing it. If the alternator failed, I'd definitely change the belt, and probably the tensioner at the same time. How should I go about diagnosing these noises? Mechanic's stethoscope? Should I go ahead and change the belt and tensioner since they have 124,000 miles on them? How hard is it to go ahead and change out the other pulleys? Can I just use a pulley puller to get them out? How are the new ones re-installed? Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
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I experienced the very conditions you are encountering on a 2006 Tacoma. It's , common and easily fixed with a new belt for $60 and fifteen minutes time. It is not bearings or pumps - just the belt. Do it. Plenty of help available on YouTube videos.
 

john_pifer

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Originally Posted By: Cadenza
I experienced the very conditions you are encountering on a 2006 Tacoma. It's , common and easily fixed with a new belt for $60 and fifteen minutes time. It is not bearings or pumps - just the belt. Do it. Plenty of help available on YouTube videos.
That's encouraging. $60?! Is that for an OEM Toyota belt?
 
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No, the OEM are hideously expensive and no better than a belt from NAPA. They'll know which one...
 

john_pifer

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Originally Posted By: Cadenza
No, the OEM are hideously expensive and no better than a belt from NAPA. They'll know which one...
You remember what brand yours is?
 
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You can make a DIY stethoscope with some tubing or vacuum hose and a metal rod. I made a good DIY one where I can hear the coil packs "clicking". Touch it to the PS pump, tensioner or alternator and hear for unusual noise (grumbling bearings, etc). Also replace the idler pulley along with the belt and tensioner assembly.
 
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For belts, it pretty much doesn't matter where you get them from. Typically they'll be Gates or to a lesser extent, Goodyear or Dayco. I prefer Goodyear Gatorback belts myself. Quiet and long lasting.
 

john_pifer

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I may try a process of elimination and just replace the belt for now. Simple enough to get back in there and replace other stuff if that doesn't take care of it.
 
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+1 one on preferring the Goodyear Gatorback but I have used Gates and Dayco also based on price and availability and they have all worked well. I believe Napa belts are Gates. I know Goodyear and Dayco both have two lines of belts (Gates may have but not sure) so make sure to get the upper line. For Goodyear it is the Gatorback and Dayco I think it is called the Poly V. If Gates has two lines you want the Micro-V. I checked and you cab get any of the three for your vehicle on-line for $30 or less shipped. I also found the OEM belt online for $44 shipped indicating MSRP on the belt was less than $43 so if you want OEM you might try a local dealer on the belt to see if they sell them at MSRP or if they have jacked it up.
 
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Does that engine have a hydraulic belt tensioner? The one that looks like it has a shock absorber attached to it? If so, I would think that would be the next cause, because the ones Toyota used on other models wasn't durable.
 
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