LEDs anyone?

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Anyone else converting car lighting over to LEDs? If so, are you getting modules that just replace the existing "bulbs" (that's the approach I've been doing BTW), or do you replace the entire light assembly with a specially designed LED lens assembly?

FWIW: I've been gradually converting almost all my car light bulbs (except for the few that can't be converted, such as the headlights) over to LED modules (while leaving the stock OEM light lens in place), and I'm really pretty happy with the results.

As I see it, this has several advantages:

1) LEDs use a lot less power. And while most people don't think about how much car electricity you use, the truth is that the more electricity you use, the more the alternator needs to put drag on the engine to generate that power (and therefore the more gas you use). While this effect isn't great, it is a real effect. So lowering electrical loads can save a little gas (probably not much of an issue on a car that's already a heavy gas guzzler, but on an efficient small car the effect can be surprisingly noticeable).

2) While many of the older (not to mention smaller/cheaper) LED modules weren't as bright as the stock bulbs, many of the newer LED modules actually produce more usable light than the stock bulbs. So LEDs can be easier to see, if you select your modules carefully!

3) LEDs produce a more "pure" color. For example, my tailights look a lot more "red" with the (red) LEDs behind them, than they ever did with the stock (incandescent) bulbs on them.

4) Normal incandescent bulbs take a short time (maybe 1/8 of a second) to "warm up", whereas LEDs turn on (or off) almost instantly. This might not sound significant, until you realize that it means that your brake lights will come on (after stepping on the pedal) just a little bit quicker (and therefor the person behind you will see them turn on slightly quicker). And if you have someone tailgating you on the highway (it happens way too often, IMHO), that could easily make a difference of several extra feet of "stopping distance" (which might be just enough difference, to avoid getting hit in the rear of your car)!

5) With LED modules, reversing the process (if you should ever want to go back to stock bulbs), is as simple as unplugging the LEDs and plugging back in (cheap) stock bulbs. For example, if you are selling the car, you could put stock bulbs back in, and use your LEDs in some other car...

6) While the LED modules are still a lot more expensive then stock bulbs, they are still a pretty cheap DIY "upgrade" to your lighting. And they do last a long time, so the "lifetime cost" (compared to stock bulbs you have to replace more often) is not really that high.

7) And, of course, the final advantage is that LEDs are unlikely to burn out at inconvenient times. Before I started converting over to LEDs, my wife was unlucky enough to get tickets for a burned out light (which she hadn't even realized had gone out) on two separate occasions! While both of those tickets were dismissed (without a fee) after she fixed the burned out bulb, and had a police officer verify that the light was now working, it was still a PITA (travel delays while being stopped by the cop, having to quickly buy/install the replacement bulb, having to make a trip to the police station to get the "repair" verified, etc.)! Now that we are converting over to LEDs, this problem should become a thing of the past...

BTW: You can put white LEDs behind a colored lens, and it will work (for example, you could use a white LED behind an amber turn signal lens). However, the color will be a lot more pure/crisp, and the effective light will be much brighter, if you match the LED color to the lens color. This is because if/when you match the LED color to the lens, almost all the light is usable. But when you put a white LED behind a colored lens, you throw away a lot of the light to switch it to color (which is what happens with stock incandescent lights as well). For example, when replacing a 1157 brake/tail bulb with LEDs, you will get much more pleasing results if you use a RED 1157 brake/tail module (because the lens color is red), even though the stock bulb you are replacing was white...

OTOH there are still a few "gotcha's" with LEDs:

1) You do have to do your homework, as not all LED modules are as bright as stock bulbs. The better LED modules are actually BRIGHTER (at least in terms of usable light) than stock bulbs, but you have to choose carefully.

2) Many turn signal flashers require the greater current draw of stock lights, and don't work well with LEDs. I had to upgrade my turn signal flasher (an extra $13 expense), before I could convert my turn signals to LEDs.

3) It wasn't a problem with my car, but some cars try to detect burned out lights by looking at the current draw. With such cars, the lower power/current draw of LEDs, can result in a constant "burned out bulb" warnings...

4) And finally, some "bulbs" are easier to get to than others. So some lights could be a real PITA to convert over to LEDs. For example, in order to get to my dash lights, it's necessary to totally unbolt the instrument panel from the car...
 
i modded the licence lights on my 4 gm vehicles with luxeons.
had a mess of older luxeons from flashlight upgrades i had done for some folks on cpf.
these plate lights are an inverted metal bathtub assy that served as a heatsink for 2 luxeons and a lm317 in 300ma cc mode.
even these low bin old leds are severe overkill for a platelight.
a cop here had me do several of his.
the excuse to pull me over wont exist on these again!
 
Aha! Another flashaholic who's into oil. I knew there had to be some out there
wink.gif


Luxeons indeed...they're your father's LEDs. I did my tailights with them. Not cheap but worth it. Btw, I'm not the Quickbeam from CPF but my apologies to him for stealing his handle
wink.gif
 
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Ah, that should be they're NOT your father's LEDs.



Agreed! Luxeon brand LEDs are just amazing, and they keep getting better (the company making them is actively trying to increase both their brightness, and their energy efficiency). I actually have my tail/brake lights (1157 bulb style) replace with "3 watt" Luxeon modules. And despite the fact that those modules contain only a SINGLE LED (vs most LED modules that contain several LEDs ganged together), they are NOTICABLY BRIGHTER (on both "low" and especially "high" brightness) than the stock 1157 bulbs they were replacing!

Now some of that effective brightness is due to the LED producing red light (instead of "white" light for the 1157 bulb) behind my red car lens (and thereby avoiding car lens losses which the stock incandescent bulb has). And some of that effective light is due to the LED focusing pretty much all the light actually produced onto the car's lens (vs the 1157 bulbs sending some light "uselessly" toward the back and sides of the lens assembly). But still, we are talking only ONE red Luxeon LED here, and it uses only around 2 watts of power on "high" (vs a stock 1157 bulb, that uses about 28 watts of power on "high"). And while that Luxeon module I used technically only produces a little over 150 lumens in its "high" setting (vs around 400 lumens for a stock 1157 bulb), the effective/useful light of the Luxeon module is actually very noticeably greater than the stock 1157 bulb (due to the more useful color and focus of the LED module, resulting in much less light loss at the car lens)...

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When do we get the edit thing here?



Until we do, check out this approach:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=738491
 
Do they make good direct replacements for bulbs now? Or do you have to solder in the leds (and resistor if necessary?) I would love to use leds for interior lighting since I actually like the whiter light that can be acieved with them, but making a bulb or tearing up the stock wiring is out of the question.
 
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Do they make good direct replacements for bulbs now?



For "lower light" (say around a maximum light output of what a 35 watt incandescent bulb produces), yes (they are "ready for prime time")! And FWIW almost all car bulbs (except for the headlights themselves, and any "fog lights" you may have) fall into that light range (and so are at least potential candidates for replacing with LED modules).

But they aren't bright enough yet, to make a cost-effective LED replacement for say a home "compact florescent" bulb. When they do eventually get to that point (which could be as soon as 5-10 years from now, if current engineering trends continue), the "LED bulb" will likely be even more energy efficient than the CF, and last longer too! And there are already lower light output 110v LED modules on the market. For example, I have some 0.7 watt (8-LED) "fridge lights", that I picked up for about $6/each (and stuck in our fridges/freezers). They aren't quite as bright as the incandescent "utility light" they replaced, but they are enough light to "backlight the food" when I open the fridge/freezer door. And the way I look at it, since I'm producing less than a watt of heat with the LED module (vs around 40 watts for the "utility light"), the fridge/freezer will have just a little easier time cooling things back down after I shut the fridge/freezer door...

However, you do have to be careful about which LEDs (or LED modules) you buy, as many places are all too happy to sell you older/cheaper (and more dim light) modules. So you need to pay more attention to total light output (and energy efficiency) on the module, than on looking for the lowest possible price (as it's easy to make the module cheaper, by also making the light output and/or life of the LED less)...

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Or do you have to solder in the leds (and resistor if necessary?)



That depends upon what you buy. I expect you will always be able to buy plain LEDs, to do with as you see fit.

But for a little more money, there are now places that will make pre-made LED modules for you (which makes some upgrades as simple as unplugging the existing car bulb, and plugging in the replacement). FWIW that's the approach I took, and it did make the upgrades a lot easier.

If you were wondering, I purchased my pre-made LED modules from "SuperBrightLEDs" (a place my dad mentioned to me), but they aren't the only place on the internet making "drop in replacement" pre-made LED modules for car bulbs. However, they are the place I have personal experience with, and I like many of their modules. However, I would advise against getting the cheapest module that will fit in the car socket. Instead, I suggest getting the brightest LED module, that has a decent beam angle and the right color for the application, that will fit in the socket. In most cases this won't be the cheapest LED module sold, but the extra cost (for the brighter light) is usually "worth it" in my experience. In fact, I actually tried a few of the cheaper modules (such as a 12 LED 1156 replacement), and ended up replacing them with brighter modules anyway (because I just didn't like the dimmer light of the cheaper modules)...

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I would love to use leds for interior lighting since I actually like the whiter light that can be acieved with them,



I understand. Avoiding rewiring, is why I didn't do the upgrade until recently. But now that "plug in bulb replacement" modules are on the market, a "LED upgrade" is a lot easier to do!

Speaking of interior lights specifically, I've updated both my "dome" and "trunk" lights (on both mine and my wife's cars) with 9 LED "festoon base" (the common car bulb that is long, thin, and has connectors on the two ends of it) LED modules from "SuperBrightLEDs". And even though those (9 LED) "bulbs" where only about $5 each, and directly plugged into existing dome/trunk fixtures, they still produce more usable light than the incandescent "festoon" bulbs they replaced (while using a fraction as much power). About the only thing I had to really decide upon, was what angle I wanted to plug the bulb in at (i.e. where did I want the light most strongly aimed toward), as (unlike incandescent bulbs) the LED modules are "directional" (so it matter what angle you plug them into the socket).

BTW: If saving power is a reason for going to LEDs (it was one of my reasons, btw), don't forget your license plate lights, as they run constantly whenever your car lights are on! In my case, I replaced my two 168 type license plate lights with "WLED" 5-LED modules (around $4/each in white).

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but making a bulb or tearing up the stock wiring is out of the question.



IMHO that's the advantage of going with pre-made "bulb" LED modules. You spend a little more on them (vs the cost of just the bulk LEDs), but someone else has already gone to the trouble of making the "bulb" for you.

And as long as the place you are using it doesn't have any problems with the lower current draw of the LEDs (see my warning above about car flashers, and burned out bulb detector circuits), this "upgrade" becomes as simple as unplugging your existing bulb and plugging in the pre-made LED module you purchased...
 
I was just looking at the SuperBrightLEDs web site. How do you cross reference a 212-2 festoon bulb to one of their LED festoon type bulbs? The 212-2 is what's in my door lights.
 
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I was just looking at the SuperBrightLEDs web site. How do you cross reference a 212-2 festoon bulb to one of their LED festoon type bulbs? The 212-2 is what's in my door lights.



Since all the car bulbs are designed for a 12v-14v car electrical system, the main question is light color/brightness, and do they physically fit.

In the case of festoon bulbs, I agree that the cross-reference info is lousy. However, the main issue with festoon bulbs, is how long are they (i.e. what's the distance between the bulb terminals)? And that's easy to measure with a small (metric) ruler, by just popping open the bulb case.

NOTE: A secondary issue is, how much clearance (if any) do you have on the sides of the bulb (sometimes important, as some of the LED festoon replacements are wider than the stock festoon bulbs).

BTW: I prefer going with the greater light output of the 9-LED festoon modules, over the 2 or 4 LED units (assuming they will physically fit). And also remember that most festoon sockets are spring loaded and have a lot of play in them. So you can often get away with using a festoon that is technically a little too long (or too short), as the bulb terminals will often allow the "wrong size" festoon to still physically be put into the socket (and used)!

BTW: If/when it physically fits in the socket, my favorite festoon replacement is the model "3022-x9".
 
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