Leaning toward SYNpower 75-90

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Hey guys, for the past few months I've been eye balling some good 75w-90 synthetic gear oil for the differentials and T-case on my Tacoma when it hits 15k, get all the factory fill stuff out (dino 90wt). Well it's quickly approaching. I've been eying the M1 and Syn power. I have used the M1 in prior vehicle diffs with no issues. I've never used Synpower, but plenty of Durablend 80/90 also with no issues. Looking at the M1 vs Synpower PDS's the only difference is the Flash point and Visc. The M1 has a slightly higher Flash point and the Syn power has slightly lower Visc cold and warm. I also noticed the Synpower carries the Mack GO-J approval and the M1 does not (for whatever reason, maybe they didn't see the need to apply for it). Between the lower Visc and Mack approval I'm leaning toward the Synpower. but it is more expensive $11 vs 9/qt (adds up when you need to buy 8 bottles!). Is the slightly lower visc going to yield any better MPG's? Is the extra $ worth the Mack GO-J approval?
 
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FWIW, I put Synpower 75W-90 in the manual transmission, transfer case, and both differentials in my '07 Tacoma at about 10K miles and couldn't be happier with it. As for the price, well, you don't have to do this job very often so use the good stuff. Redline also makes a nice gear lube that I run in my '69 VW van.
 

4x4taco

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I have an Auto, but in my older yotas I ran MT-90 and loved it. M1 made the R154 & W58 5spd crunch into 2nd in two Supras and two trucks. This truck is bone stock and staying that way, it's the DD. Trying to squeeze MPG's. Want to use a lube that is readily available locally too... hence the M1 vs Synpower. I think either should be more than adequate for this little stock truck. But if I'm paying out I want the good stuff. and later on I might be towing a boat hopefully. Riverrat-Did you notice a MPG gain when swithing the driveline over to syn? It's quite a bit of driveline.
 
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I'd use Amsoil, it's the best stuff going and this isn't a job you want to do very often. I'm not saying the Valvoline is bad stuff, just that there is a superior product out there, IMO. Most people do not see any MPG gain when doing this. And those that do, the gain is minimal. I dumped the rear diff FF at 13k in my Taco, and I couldn't believe how much metal garbage was in there.
 

4x4taco

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Oh I bet there was... When i built off-road rigs and set gears up I used dino 80-90 coastal and dumped it at 500, 1,500 and then at 5k. Then onto normal as need intervals. Not sure how the factory is getting away with never changing the lube. I'm just staying away from the botique oils. I won't use amsoil b/c of their marketing and ratings. Just my opinion. Ive used their products in the past. I'll probly get the Valv just b/c it's Mack GO-J approved. That says you know the stuff will hold up. I look for approvals from API, and manufactures such as Mack, GM, Honta Etc. Put your money where your mouth is ya know. That mentality. When companies put their name on it, if shiz hits the fan, it costs them money. Hence why if you run 5w-30 regular dino SM in a Corvette and throw a rod guess what? You own it.
 
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FWIW, API does not mean the lube you are considering will hold up any better than a "boutique" one. Toyota puts their name on Mobil 3309 otherwise known as type T-IV and it's utter garbage. Lube related failures rarely ever happen. Racing environments are where lubes are really stressed and this is where mainly boutiques are utilized. Not knocking your decision or desire to run an "approved fluid" but your rationale is flawed just a bit. That being said, I have absolutely nothing bad to say about the valvoline gear oil you are considering. Very high quality product. Regardless of brand choice, most people just need to get in the habbit of changing the gear oil. I do mine every 30K and I use RL. It could go longer but I feel good changing it out early.
 

4x4taco

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AZ- what is 3309 mobil? Is that factory fill in the taco diff? Looks like toyota makes a "90wt" gear oil for all their Tcases & diffs. Sounds like "low bidder" to me.
 
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 Originally Posted By: 4x4taco
Riverrat-Did you notice a MPG gain when swithing the driveline over to syn? It's quite a bit of driveline.
I havent tracked that. I dunno.
 

dnewton3

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You're not likely to stress the components enough to let any possible small differences in performance concern you. On top of that, the Tacoma has a stunning reputation for reliability. I'd buy whatever's the least expensive.
 

4x4taco

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that would be the Mobil 1. Buying 8 qts will save me just under $20.
 
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Its one of their ATF's spec'd for T-IV. Mobil makes the 3309 (T-IV for Toyota. Just using it as an example. Not sure about the factory 90wt, its most likely another exxon/mobil product. When I drained mine at 30 K it was trashed. Granted it had gone through break in without a drain so I anticipated it would look like swamp water. The RL 75-90 has been great the last 30K. I didnt even have to add any FM after the initial fill. Silent as can be.
 

4x4taco

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The M1 & Synpower have the LSD friction modifier in them too. But for me it doesn't matter b/c I have open diffs F&R, but I have a electric locker on the rear.
 
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I'm sure either will work very well. I'm a bit habitual to Valvoline products as long as they keep up the good work.
 
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 Originally Posted By: 4x4taco
The M1 & Synpower have the LSD friction modifier in them too. But for me it doesn't matter b/c I have open diffs F&R, but I have a electric locker on the rear.
That was going to be my question for you. FYI, 'Yotas do not like synthetics in their LSD. Open/locker is fine.
 
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Toyota LS-ends don't care if it is synthetic or not. The issue with LSDs is that most don't dose the LSD additive enough. The issue with manuals is that most use a fluid with LSD when none should be used. So, the word "synthetic" is not to blame. Being in Florida, you probably won't notice the MPG benefit that someone in Canada could feel when comparing the cold flow improvements of a synthetic. But, you'd benefit from a synth fluid that doesn't break down as quickly during a heat wave when working the truck. Its a coin toss for either Valv or M1 in the transfer case, front/rear-ends. I'm a supporter of M1 but wouldn't hesitate using Synpower. For the manual, get a gear oil without any LSD additive. Valvoline 'white bottle' 75w90(PN vv820) doesn't mention LSD additives. Durablend, Synpower, and M1 are blended with an LS additive dosage.
 
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 Originally Posted By: unDummy
Toyota LS-ends don't care if it is synthetic or not. The issue with LSDs is that most don't dose the LSD additive enough. The issue with manuals is that most use a fluid with LSD when none should be used. So, the word "synthetic" is not to blame.
Side track here, but look thru the LSD threads on toyotanation. Taco LSD rears (2005-2008 model years, in 09 Toyota did away with mechanical LSD all-together) have a tendency to bind with synthetic gear oil and even TWO tubes of LSD additives. It is a well-documented phenomenon among Tacoma owners. Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Valvoline Syn, all bind. Any dino gear with LSD additive is fine. 09-10 Tacos have ether e-lockers or open differentials, so the LSD discussion is moot.
 

4x4taco

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Ursae- The locker has nothing to do with it being a '09 or '10. They've been using a E-locking rear diff for over 10yrs+ now. Dating back the mid/late 90's. You get a E-locker if you get the "TRD Off-road" package. If you get the "TRD Sport" you get the LSD. Most non trd trucks have a open diff with no locker; pirate leg. As for the Factory Toyota LSD wouldn't matter to me b/c I'd rip it out and throw a Detroit Locker in it. I'm all about some sort of rear locker. More important than Visa, don't leave home without it. I rather off-road a 2 wheel drive truck with a locker than a 4x4 with open diffs. Back to Gear oil. Seems like it's a coin toss. Might just do the M1 b/c its cheaper and available everywhere. I ran M1 in my LSD Corvette Dana 35 for years with no issues. I just put M1 in a friends Subaru Baja rear diff (LSD) and didn't any any modifier and it's doing great. Just wish they'd have the Mack GO-J approval to be comparative ya know...
 
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4x4taco

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Looked around again today, found this stuff called "roadranger FE 75w-90". Made for the big rig industry. Spec sheet looks promising. The only thinner 75-90 I've found is the Synpower, but the Synpower's Flash point is 100*F lower than the roadranger FE. Synpower: 100 @40*C, 14.5 @100*C, -49*F pour, 325*F Flash. Mobil 1 : 106 @40*C, 15.2 @100*C, -50*F pour, 347*F Flash. Roadranger FE : 103 @40*C, 15.0 @100*C, -49*F pour, 419*F Flash. Is the Synpower's flash point low???
 
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Out of curiousity, why are you so fixated on big rig spec'd gear oils? You will not see a difference between the synpower,Mobil 1 or roadranger unless you are in severe operating conditions and even then I highly doubt it. If you want the best of the best, in my opinion you are looking at the wrong brands with exception of the Mobil 1. I have never even heard of Roadranger! Just considering flashpoint Redline with a 440 degree and Amsoil with a 428 degree blow these others out of the water.
 
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4x4taco

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I've been around a diesel truck to long I guess lol. Maybe I need to look at redline or amsoil.
 
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