Leaking power steering pump?

[gregk24]

I was rinsing off the underside of my car the other day and noticed half of the oil pan was oily looking, I figured I just made a mess the previous OCI and moved on. But as I was inspecting it today, I see that the whole power steering pump (I am assuming thats what it is) is coated in an oily substance, I wiped my finger on it and smelled it and it doesnt smell like motor oil (in fact, it didnt have much of a smell at all). Whatever it is its on the very bottom of the engine, and it sits next to the oil pan, and it is belt driven. Is the the P/S pump (this is the 2006 Accord I4 in my sig). And if so, how much does the dealer usually charge for this? To replace it that is, if thats the issue. So far PS fluid is still level. Here is a pic from a previous post of mine, its that very bottom part under the alternator attached to that wheel/belt. Is that the PS pump?

 

[another Todd]

Sometimes they weep slightly, not a problem. If it leaked enough to cover the bottom of your pan I would think the level would be low. Your first assumption (previous oil change) may have been correct. Keep an eye one it but I wouldn't worry.

 

[gregk24]

Ok guys, just went outside and did a more thorough inspection...it really looks like its coming from the P/S pump (or whatever that part is) can anyone confirm if thats the pump or something else? And if it is the PS pump, where would it be leaking from, and how much does something like this cost to fix? Can you install new seals or would the replace the whole thing? I would take it to the Honda dealer or to my local shop.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: another Todd

Sometimes they weep slightly, not a problem. If it leaked enough to cover the bottom of your pan I would think the level would be low. Your first assumption (previous oil change) may have been correct. Keep an eye one it but I wouldn't worry.

I didnt mention this earlier, I had been doing a series of drain and fills to the PS reservoir, so its been drained and topped off a couple times. That would have kept it topped off so it would have been hard to notice a change in level.

 

[Trav]

The part under the alternator looks like the A/C compressor, the PS pump seems to be over the alternator. Probably a mess from the last OC.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: Trav

The part under the alternator looks like the A/C compressor, the PS pump seems to be over the alternator. Probably a mess from the last OC.

Would the AC compressor leak fluid?

 

[Fleetmon]

I agree that it is the ac compressor in the picture. A compressor can leak a little oil.....does the ac work? If the ac works and the power steering level doesn't go down, I wouldn't worry about it just yet.

 

[Trav]

Sure they can leak oil but AFAIK the refrigerant goes with it so if the A/C is working good i seriously doubt thats a problem. There may be some units that have a separate oil chamber i don't know but i doubt it on what appears to be a Sanden unit in the picture. On those the front seal is the usual culprit for leaks and with that everything is going out.

 

[gregk24]

I agree, it looks like the Ac compressor for sure. It engages when it should, but with a loud clunk, normal? IDK. Ill be honest I am a little worried because I dont have any money to get this fixed. And I am in the FL summer.

 

[Trav]

Clean it up with brake cleaner and keep an eye out for where the source of the leak is. Oil migrates and can go a long way. I have seen a HG look like it had an external leak because of a bolt leaking oil through its threads on the intake and migrating down along the gasket line.

 

[andyd]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Clean it up with brake cleaner and keep an eye out for where the source of the leak is. Oil migrates and can go a long way. I have seen a HG look like it had an external leak because of a bolt leaking oil through its threads on the intake and migrating down along the gasket line.

Thats a malady of the M 20 in my 528e. An external oil leak from the otherwise functional head gasket. RF on the head at #1. I added a quart between 3K OCIs using the cheapest 20w50 I could find. I did this for 200K. A fellow 528e-er went the right route and changed 3 HGs. whilst I kept up with a persistant, albeit small, weep. Bone simple with a LOL light, that came on exactly at a quart. low. After awhile, I didn't even bother to check the stick, it was that consistent.

 

[another Todd]

Gregk24, you have been on this forum about 16 months and racked up over 2500 posts. Either you are asking a lot of questions, or you are spouting off a lot of info for someone who doesn't know the difference between a PS pump and an AC compressor. Just saying.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: another Todd

Gregk24, you have been on this forum about 16 months and racked up over 2500 posts. Either you are asking a lot of questions, or you are spouting off a lot of info for someone who doesn't know the difference between a PS pump and an AC compressor. Just saying.

No I didnt know the difference. But thanks for kicking someone while he is down. Try posting something useful next time please.

 

[gregk24]

Is it possible for the AC compressor to be viable, and have it re sealed? Is that something people do, or do they just replace it. Looking at the price of this thing, its wicked expensive, and thats just for the part =/

 

[Noey]

Greg, it;s hard to tell which part in your snappy you're referring to, could you draw an arrow or something? P/S fluid doesn't typically require a change, it's not actually lubricating much, it's used primarily as a hydraulic fluid, it's the pressure within the system that's used to assist steering effort. If you;ve gone thru the trouble of changing it, two things arise: First, what type of fluid are you using? and 2) are you tightning the cap sufficiently? Wipe the entire area down thoroughly, spray some brake parts cleaner on everything and wipe it all dry so you have a spotless area, and drive the car for awhile and see what gets wet. If it's the P/S, you'll also note a drop in fluid in the reservoir. An A/C compressor can leak oil (there's oil in there), and the way we usually prevent that is to always run the a/c at least once a month, regardless of weather, so it circulates and lubricates the seals. If you're not doing this, start. Typically, when an a/c compressor gives up the ghost, it's replaced. If the system blows cold, you're OK.

 

[another Todd]

I post lots of useful stuff based on my experience, including training in the field of auto mechanics. I quit as a NIASE certified, professional mechanic over 30 years ago and went into a different line of work, but keep reasonably current in auto mechanics. I myself ask questions when I am unsure, something we all do. Just saying, I've been on this forum 7 years longer than you, and have 900 fewer posts. You don't need to reply when you have nothing useful to add. In your case, with several drain and refills, you may have spilled oil onto the AC compressor (identified as such by others). If the AC still works, and the PS level does not drop, don't worry about it, just watch it.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: gregk24

Is it possible for the AC compressor to be viable, and have it re sealed? Is that something people do, or do they just replace it. Looking at the price of this thing, its wicked expensive, and thats just for the part =/

It's $349 for one at O'Reilly's. If you insist on replacing, take it to a local shop unless the dealer can actually do it cheaply. It's not a problem IMO, mine has been oily since I bought my car 8 months and 12k miles ago, still works fine.

 

[artificialist]

If you really want to know if the compressor is leaking oil: 1. Get a UV light. 2. Know if your car has UV dye in the refrigerant oil. 3. If it doesn't come with UV dye, you can buy a dye injection shot for a low price. UV dye glows bright yellow when exposed to UV light. It is hard to miss. If you determine that the compressor is the problem, you can pay a mechanic to remove the refrigerant as you replace the parts. Next, go to the same mechanic and pay to have the system vacuumed and recharged. AC parts usually aren't too difficult to replace for a skilled DIY-er.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: Noey

Greg, it;s hard to tell which part in your snappy you're referring to, could you draw an arrow or something? P/S fluid doesn't typically require a change, it's not actually lubricating much, it's used primarily as a hydraulic fluid, it's the pressure within the system that's used to assist steering effort. If you;ve gone thru the trouble of changing it, two things arise: First, what type of fluid are you using? and 2) are you tightning the cap sufficiently? Wipe the entire area down thoroughly, spray some brake parts cleaner on everything and wipe it all dry so you have a spotless area, and drive the car for awhile and see what gets wet. If it's the P/S, you'll also note a drop in fluid in the reservoir. An A/C compressor can leak oil (there's oil in there), and the way we usually prevent that is to always run the a/c at least once a month, regardless of weather, so it circulates and lubricates the seals. If you're not doing this, start. Typically, when an a/c compressor gives up the ghost, it's replaced. If the system blows cold, you're OK.

Thanks for the feedback, yes I have been taught that and Yes I do run it even in the winter to prevent the seals from drying up. And yes thankfully it still blows cold. My main question is, if it is leaking oil/freon (which I am 90% sure it is) and its still blowing cold, what can I do to fix it before damage occurs. I dont want to wait until too much oil runs out then it really breaks on me. I do not have the money to replace it if it goes, so I want to fix it while its a "small" problem if possible.

 

[Trav]

When/if the refrigerant get too low the low pressure switch will kick the compressor clutch off to save the compressor. Clean it all good and look under the compressor if oil is running down from behind the pulley the front seal is gone. Not a difficult or expensive repair but will require evacuating the system and removing the compressor. Try to find the exact source of the leak before planning or pricing anything.