Large Price Difference In PCV Valves ??

Joined
Mar 30, 2015
Messages
9,690
Location
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
I was looking for a PCV valve for my 2015 5.7 HEMI, and found a huge price discrepancy in many of them. From over $52.00 for a factory MOPAR OEM part, to as little as $12.49 at Autozone. And who knows what's Chi-Com, and what isn't? (They most likely all are).

Mine isn't near the factory recommended 60,000 miles for replacement. But what concerns me, is this thing is a cheap molded plastic, twist on/ twist off O-Ring sealed part. Constant heat soaking over 60,000 miles is going to make this thing brittle as hell over time. I don't want to wait until it's all dried out, and have the thing break off trying to remove it. So I would like to do it early.

Plus, I can lube the O-Rings on the new one, that will help when it gets replaced. (They also say it's good to do the same with the engine bonnet mounting points, which are also plastic, snap on / off). Anyway, I just wondered if it's worth the extra $40.00 to go OEM? Has anyone ever had any issues with non OEM PCV valves acting up? We're talking over triple the price here.

 
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
931
Location
North Carolina
Don't know about your specific PCV part, but I always heard if you can shake it and hear it rattling it's good. I would not pay for $40 more for the OEM. Only vehicle I ever saw a bad PVC valve on was my Volvos.
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2018
Messages
1,005
Location
illinois, usa
Don't know about your specific PCV part, but I always heard if you can shake it and hear it rattling it's good. I would not pay for $40 more for the OEM. Only vehicle I ever saw a bad PVC valve on was my Volvos.
The Volvo's PCV system is quite different and is made up of lots of parts. No rattle check is possible.
 
Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
2,335
Location
USA
A new pcv valve helped my Neon not burn so much oil. But wow $40 more is kind of crazy.
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
3,233
Location
near Cincinnati, OH
Since the OEM is that overpriced, I'd get the Autozone, or online, any brand you recognize rather than some generic. Use silicone paste to lube it, petroleum will erode away due to the nature of what a PCV does.
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2020
Messages
355
Location
Ontario, Canada
I had the same dilemma when I hit 100k kms on my 5.7L in my 300. I figured I'd do all the fluids, filters etc. front to back. I got the Mopar one from Rock Auto at the time it was $36 CDN vs about 20 for others at the time. Don't know why they are priced so high :(
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Messages
509
Location
USA
I always go with OEM. Sometimes you get what you pay for. Without knowing the OEM specs, it's hard to guess.

Only way to know is when you have an intake backfire and then it's all or nothing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GON
Joined
Jul 14, 2020
Messages
310
Location
DFW Metroplex
I have run the house brand jobber PCVs from local auto parts stores in my 5.7Ls and had no issues after tens of thousands of miles between the two engines.

Yes, OE parts are usually worth the extra cost, but only when their construction/assembly is sufficiently complicated that cheapening out on that process compromises the part's integrity. That's not likely going to be the case for a plastic check valve that only needs to respond to changes in air pressure/vacuum.
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
4,845
Location
Kuwait
OE tends to be application specific, aftermarket seems to cover a much larger range so long as it physically fits in place. Given a PCV valve is not something you replace regularly, I always go with OE and call it a day.
 
Top