Ladies and Gentlemen, Check your Brake Lines!

To answer your question directly, GM uses junk metal. They like to have a pre-made "spider" of LR, RR brake lines, fuel send, return, and EVAP all under one clip. So they use mild steel to save a buck or two.

For every brake line I've had to replace, I've also done fuel-- usually with nylon.

Stainless is harder to work.

GM builds a lot of complex things as part of the vehicle and engine. They could fabricate the SS brake lines if they chose to.
 
Don't take this the wrong way but that car in the picture looks so rusty I would scrap or part it out. I would not be driving it at above say 25mph. Maybe salvageable, but looks like a lot of work. Great reminder though!!
 
I mixed Fluid Film & Never-Seize and coated my Brake Lines. / From front to back.
18 years old (rust belt) and they look 'new' / I redo every few years.
One place you want protection is at any Hanger/Clips that can collect moisture.

OP - Those rusty Brake Lines look so 1970's.
Oiling now would do no good.
After replacing, then coat with Oil/Grease.
 
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I mixed Fluid Film & Never-Seize and coated my Brake Lines. / From front to back.
18 years old (rust belt) and they look 'new' / I redo every few years.
One place you want protection is at any Hanger/Clips that can collect moisture.

OP - Those rusty Brake Lines look so 1970's.
Oiling now would do no good.
After replacing, then coat with Oil/Grease.
Roger that. This used to be my late Dad’s car. It’s been our “extra car” for almost 2 years now since he passed away. If i owned it from the get go and known about your brake line treatment, that would have been a great treatment. Frankly, i would spread that all over the rest of the frame areas that tend to rust too! Alloy lines are going back on, so rust will not be a problem, but I will probably coat the fittings with your mix. Thx.
 
Don't take this the wrong way but that car in the picture looks so rusty I would scrap or part it out. I would not be driving it at above say 25mph. Maybe salvageable, but looks like a lot of work. Great reminder though!!
Thank you for your concern. I do not take it the “wrong way”. I agree there is rust. I have an 06 Honda Odyssey along with this 05 Buick and they both have what i consider to be unsatisfactory rust in some areas, but they are both very solid (at least for the next few years). What you are seeing in one pic is a rusty exhaust pipe, but on this Buick, its a really thick pipe, so lots of life left. A couple of the suspension attachment points are pretty rusted, but they are very thick metal so not worried about those. The Uni-body structural elements and sheet metal are in excellent shape. The Buick (and Honda for that matter) are very far from going to scrap yard.

On the other hand, we have 5 other cars in the family that are Volvos varying 11 to 16 years old and despite being driven in the same New England conditions, they are nearly pristine beneath. It is simply a function of the manufacturing process, choice of materials, and design that cause a Volvo to resist rust so well vs. the domestically made Buick and Honda. At the rate that the Volvos are rusting, it’ll be 2050 before the Volvo goes to junkyard for rust, maybe longer. I kid you not.
 
OMG! Is that what rust looks like. 55 years here and no rust, let alone brake lines. Didn't know that could even happen. No wonder people are afraid of single master cylinders.

Guess I've lived a sheltered life.
Thank goodness you found it.
 
Just did the lines in our original owner '02 Tahoe. I bought a NICOP kit. One thing I'll say is the kit I used, and others I saw used on youTube invariably have extra length in the lines for whatever reason, possibly because of multiple applications. I got the job done alright but it resulted in some extra 'bends' of line here are there. It was especially ugly in the line crossing over by the front crossmember by the radiator to the right front.
 
FWIW this is one of the reasons I use CorrosionX specifically- it will creep from the point of application to cover the entire metal surface. In this context that's an extremely useful feature because it means you don't have to be extraordinarily careful to coat the entire surface- the portion of the lines against the body or inside the mounting clips will get covered by the creeping action.

Had the same issue on an old subaru- *really* made me mad; a stupid place for mild steel.
 
Just realized I also have some rust on my lines. It’s the section underneath the driver’s side. Some of the line looks good but that left side between the two fender wells is rusty. Here are some shots. I started to spray rust inhibitor but also have a section of dry rusted line. The vehicle is a 15 year old Taurus. The first shot is relatively unrusted lines near the strut I was working on. The next two lines were under the driver’s side that I just sprayed with rust inhibitor, the last two were dry rusted lines prior to spraying.

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Just realized I also have some rust on my lines. It’s the section underneath the driver’s side. Some of the line looks good but that left side between the two fender wells is rusty. Here are some shots. I started to spray rust inhibitor but also have a section of dry rusted line. The vehicle is a 15 year old Taurus. The first shot is relatively unrusted lines near the strut I was working on. The next two lines were under the driver’s side that I just sprayed with rust inhibitor, the last two were dry rusted lines prior to spraying.

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You should try and get them fixed as soon as possible. I needed to do mine this year on a 23 year old civic. This year finally did it, but the lines were rusty for a whole. The fuel lines are rusty as well, which I'll need to look into since this may involve dropping the tank.
 
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