Knocking from rear axle

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Jun 26, 2007
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Kansas
2000 F250 4x4. Sterling 10.5 rear axle.

There is a knocking noise coming from the rear axle only when coasting with no load on the drive train, starting at about 35 mph down to about 5 mph. The knocking goes away when I manually lock the torque converter. It also goes away when I "feather" the accelerator lightly enough to raise the engine rpm, but not enough to maintain speed.

It is more consistent with the speed of the tires than the drive shaft. The noise can only be heard with the radio off and windows up . . . in other words, it has to be quiet in the cab. As a result, I don't know how long it has been doing this. I first noticed it, however, after I swapped the gears from 3.73 to 4.30 ratio. After changing the gears, I was overly focused on any noise from the axle to ensure that I didn't do anything wrong.

When doing the gears, I noticed that the limited slip differential was beyond shot. I didn't have a replacement, and it looked good enough to last a month or so until I could find a good, used (affordable) differential. I figured the differential was the source of the noise, and dismissed it.

Fast forward about 500 miles/1 month. I laid my hands on a good, used 3-pinion LS differential out of a newer truck for a great price. I disassembled it upon delivery to ensure it was in good shape and replace clutches if necessary. It checked out with nothing more than a thorough cleaning, and installed it into the axle. I checked the pinion gear pre-load and spun it by hand, it was still good.

The knocking noise persists! I checked out the wheel bearings, which are fine. I threw the rear end up on stands and had the wife run the go-pedal to duplicate the conditions. It is most certainly coming from the center section. I can hear it very clearly under the truck next to the axle, and, placing my hand on the center section, I can feel it. Turning the tires by hand, I can hear a very quiet knock about once for every turn of the tires. I just can't figure it out. I can't afford to keep opening the rear cover, either, at $60 a pop for that expensive 75W-140.
 
You sure it isn't an exhaust hangar causing the muffler/pipe to knock on something?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
You sure it isn't an exhaust hangar causing the muffler/pipe to knock on something?


Yeah. Everything external has been checked.
 
Originally Posted By: Techniker
This "knock", what pitch is it? Is it high or low? If you had to imitate the noise, what would you do?


Lower pitch. The closest I can come to duplicating it is using only the knuckle of the middle finger to knock on the surface of a thick piece of solid hardwood, such as a solid wood door or the top of a desk. I may buy an audio recorder and try to duct tape it under the truck to see if I can record it.
 
The only knocking diff i heard was from a chipped spider gear (but it could be any of the gears).
Work shaft splines can also be a source.
 
A buddy has suggested that it could be the torque converter placing intermittent stress/load on the drive shaft, which then causes the pinion to occasionally "bounce" between two teeth. This would explain why the noise goes away when manually downshifting with the torque converter locked for engine braking.

I don't know if that makes any sense.
 
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Sorry that should be worn splines.I don't know about "bounce between teeth but it would load the diff.Did you replace the crush collar when you did the pinion?is it torqued correctly?
The knock is once every wheel revolution? I would think if it was in the pinion side it would be more.

I think you will end up opening the diff again,save the fluid in a clean container.
 
I did use a new crush sleeve. Everything was torqued correctly. I did not observe any abnormal wear on the axle splines.

I am thinking about pulling the rear drive shaft this weekend, double-checking the pinion nut, and driving it around under power from the front axle to take the drive shaft/transmission/torque converter out of the equation.

Of course, if the knocking then moves to the front axle, where it never was before, that may be a little obvious . . .
 
Replaced the u-joints and center support bearing as well, during my quest to resolve the knocking. They were all original - and still good, which surprised me.
 
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Just out of curiosity, how are you doing these repairs? Are you really doing this on jack stands or do you have a lift? I can't imagine doing these repairs without a lift.

-Techniker
 
Its the slip joint on the drive shaft. Trust me IT IS. they get dry and need lube. Ford makes a special lube for this but its expensive. you can try regular grease and that should take care of it. Be careful not to tear up the slip joint boot.
 
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Originally Posted By: Techniker
Just out of curiosity, how are you doing these repairs? Are you really doing this on jack stands or do you have a lift? I can't imagine doing these repairs without a lift.

-Techniker


Yup, on jack stands. I admit that I am getting a little old to be crawling around under a vehicle like that though. You would be surprised at some of the repairs I have performed over the years out in the field. A lift would be nice, but I try to remain grounded and be thankful that at least I'm working on concrete rather than rolling around in the dirt.



Originally Posted By: Dualie
Its the slip joint on the drive shaft. Trust me IT IS. they get dry and need lube. Ford makes a special lube for this but its expensive. you can try regular grease and that should take care of it. Be careful not to tear up the slip joint boot.


Slip joint is not the problem. Lubing up the slip joint was one of the first things I did when I bought the truck a year ago, and just cleaned it up and re-lubed it while the shaft was out to replace the u-joints and center support bearing.


Thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming.
 
It is an exacting job to set up differntial gears.
I used to do this for AMG Mercedes.
Preload of the sides and pinion are only two final settings.
But whining/howling would usually be the noises from improper set up.

A knock would indicate a tooth that is bad. U-Joints maybe?
 
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