Ugh. I ran this way too long by mistake, typical is 7500. Had to see the carnage. It was a roughly 50/50 mix of K&N and Kirkland, both 0w-20. First time I've used Oil Analyzers, have always done BL in the past. No cross ref of ranges and no commentary I see. Please give your read on the report.
Kirkland/K&N 0w-20, 15.2k mi; 2016 Mazda 3 2.0 w/123k mi
- Thread starter dsr70
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The Mazda 2.0 isn't that hard on oil. It's actually not that bad. There is still some TBN, not much oxidation. Not sure about Na. Fe and Al don't seem that high, but this is just one sample. My concern would be whether the oil can keep the rings clean at this interval. If it was mine i'd run Valvoline Restore & Protect next.
Iron looks a tad high are burning any Oil. Still TBN left and some BITOG posters claim this is not an extended OCI oil.
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Kirkland and those types of oils really struggle in severe service/extended service. As mentioned luckily that engine typically is easy on oil and did well.
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Iron of roughly 1 ppm/1k miles is very good and the other metals are far lower. Metals are of no concern. There were two quarts of make-up oil, which somewhat replenished the additives. Oxidation of 14 is medium if you consider 25 a condemnation limit. Zero concern with this oil change interval, you didn't hurt anything.
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Did ok!
It was very good for that mileage! TBN good at over 2. Total wear metals only 1.72 per 1,000 miles. Normal is considered 5.00 per 1,000 miles.
Props for posting this and being honest about the mileage extension. However, given the mileage and the makeup oil, I wouldn’t say this was too bad! My Navigator chews even great oils up at 5k miles due to the filthy internals I acquired it with. What oil do you plan on running next?
I put in Castrol Magnatek 0w-20, purchased in Feb. 2022, from the stash. SP, dexos 1 gen 2 on the label. Which I came to find out has been discontinued. I'm not a big believer in oil shelf life, correct my wayward thinking if needed. The poor old Mazda commuter gets all the older stuff now.
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The OP knows a mistake was made. As a one time event, probably gets away with it. Nothing to be done except move on.
From what I’ve seen through research is that additive fallout in shelved oils isn’t a thing for a decade or more and that a shake of the bottle seems to mix it all around again, though I’m not saying that with any definitive answer. In a standard commuter, I think it’s perfectly fine. Here’s to many more miles on that Mazda!
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I wouldn't lose sleep over that. Motor on bud
Let me make some rough calculations.
18 ppm is 18 mg/liter let’s assume the following:
A liter is equivalent to quart
The added fresh oil has 0 ppm of iron
Oil capacity is 4.4 qts
When the uoa was done there was
79 mg Fe in 4.4 qts which is the measured 18ppm Fe. This is diluted since 2 qts were added.
Given ur unknown engine Fe level, let us say u observed that it was 2qts low and u immediately added 2 qts, drove it around the block and then u took a UOA sample. The 2 qts of oil that was consumed had approximately 40 mg of Fe. So 79 + 40 =119; 119/4.4=27 ppm. This is the worst case scenario.
I think the Fe is closer to 30 ppm if no oil was added.
My thoughts.
18 ppm is 18 mg/liter let’s assume the following:
A liter is equivalent to quart
The added fresh oil has 0 ppm of iron
Oil capacity is 4.4 qts
When the uoa was done there was
79 mg Fe in 4.4 qts which is the measured 18ppm Fe. This is diluted since 2 qts were added.
Given ur unknown engine Fe level, let us say u observed that it was 2qts low and u immediately added 2 qts, drove it around the block and then u took a UOA sample. The 2 qts of oil that was consumed had approximately 40 mg of Fe. So 79 + 40 =119; 119/4.4=27 ppm. This is the worst case scenario.
I think the Fe is closer to 30 ppm if no oil was added.
My thoughts.
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