Kenmore/Whirlpool dryer F01 fix

Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
17,871
Location
Santa Barbara, CA
We have maybe a 15ish year old Kenmore HE3 steam dryer that for the most part has been trouble free. Last week it started giving an F01 error. I looked some things up and it all pointed to a main control board failure. I watched a video where it showed to re-solder and add a jumper wire to even the load. This seemed not the greatest advice, so I did some more research and found this video showing to desolder the relay and solder in a new one. Now I haven't done any soldering in a long time so my skills were rusty. I found a relay on Amazon for $10 which funny enough was described as Kenmore/Whirlpool F01 repair. Used my new Milwaukee M12 soldering iron and went to town on it tonight. Now my skills aren't the best at all, but I got it all done. Plugged it back in and it started right up!! Even if this only works for a few months, it fixes a machine and buys us time to pick out some new ones.
Before with the burned out pin:
IMG_9140.jpg


My terrible soldering skills:
IMG_9185.jpg
 
A penny saved is a penny earned. Who cares how the soldering looks, the task was accomplished. Bravo!
 
I sure do like the very old machines which had no circuit boards to burn up like that.

Those you tube videos sure help in solving problems.
 
You are not giving yourself enough credit on your soldering abilities! On that burned terminal/circuit board trace, you might want to rub off some of the protective coating over the trace to expose some shiny copper near the relay terminal and apply some solder there and bridge it to the terminal to ensure a better electrical connection.
 
good for you! modern appliances have too much electronics IMO! girlfriends lightly used whirlpool front loader needed a $500 circuit board new simpler machine was CHEEPER!!
 
Must be an electric dryer at the heater relay.
Corecentric Solutions is a resource for appliance boards, they are a rebuilder of older boards. I've installed a lot of their boards in my previous life.
 
That does need to be bridged with a wire. Much of the original copper trace has burned away.

Take some #18 bare copper wire and solder it to the terminal points at both ends of the copper trace, routing it over top of the existing copper.

Failure starts because the machine process at the factory doesn't leave enough solder on the connections. They crack and burn. Reinforce all the high-current connections on the board by applying additional solder.
 
Code came back on last week. I ordered a new board from Amazon, making sure the part number s matched. Installed it tonight and all is well so far. Got 11 months out of the cheap fix so buying a board this time didn't seem to hurt as bad.
 
my local TV repair guy noted its the heating + cooling cycles, he fixed several bringing my old toshiba TV back to life. good luck with the new board!!
 
I love the 100% mechanicle machines. Our Micro waves tur table operates intermittantly and thought about fixing it but i will ignore the problem till i need to buy a new one. I used to love fixing stuff not i hate fixing stuff.
 
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