Kendall GT-1 Oil good or not

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I've used the conventional oil without any problems. A local garage charges $9.95 for LOF and they use Kendall. I normally change my own, but I have used them before if I haven't been able to do it.
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In the past I used to hear that the Kendall from the eastern part of the country was great oil and that the western Kendall was not as good. I live in the west so I never used it. But now, with all of these oil company mergers, Kendall is just a part of a merged group of oil companies, and who knows what sort of formulation it has now.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
In the past I used to hear that the Kendall from the eastern part of the country was great oil and that the western Kendall was not as good. I live in the west so I never used it. But now, with all of these oil company mergers, Kendall is just a part of a merged group of oil companies, and who knows what sort of formulation it has now.

Do you think it is any good for a performance motor? A 331 Stroker that revs high.
 
I use Kendall 40 wt. monograde in my jetboat, seems to hold up very well, in this application ultra high oil temps are very demanding on oil, my success here probably has more to do with the viscosoity than the brand. The 40 wt. is still green in color. I've also used the 10w30 in my daily drivers, seems to be a fine oil, but I don't have any proof that it works better or worse than other dino's either.
Sounds like you spent a few bucks building that engine, any reason you don't want to spend a few bucks on a "top of the line" synth oil?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Kompressor:
I use Kendall 40 wt. monograde in my jetboat, seems to hold up very well, in this application ultra high oil temps are very demanding on oil, my success here probably has more to do with the viscosoity than the brand. The 40 wt. is still green in color. I've also used the 10w30 in my daily drivers, seems to be a fine oil, but I don't have any proof that it works better or worse than other dino's either.
Sounds like you spent a few bucks building that engine, any reason you don't want to spend a few bucks on a "top of the line" synth oil?


My engine is all new but old style seals and what not. It does not have the design of a 4.6L. Newer engines are designed to not leak with synthetic. It is not a falacy that synthetic oil will make a car leak. Trust me it can make a car leak. It would kill me to see that thing spring a leak.
 
[/qb][/QUOTE]My engine is all new but old style seals and what not. It does not have the design of a 4.6L. Newer engines are designed to not leak with synthetic. It is not a falacy that synthetic oil will make a car leak. Trust me it can make a car leak. It would kill me to see that thing spring a leak. [/QB][/QUOTE]

I do understand that this engine is a 302 Ford Windsor engine, I don't agree with your statement that "synthetic oil will make a car leak", its true that if there is a weak seal synthetic may find its way through more readily than dino. However, there's no reason if proper gasket installation procedures are observed that your engine should leak no matter which oil you go with. This all boils down to type and quality of gasket set, type/types of sealants used (and application there of) and the cleanliness/condition of the gasket surfaces. I did try Royal Purple 40 wt. synth in my 460 jetboat once, not a single leak. If you have a gasket leak its the fault of the engine assembler, not the engine design or oil type. I'd be happy to share my gasket methodology via email if your interested, its off-topic for this forum I think.
 
I have had quite a few SBC's, and none of them ever leaked with synthetic (that didn't leak with conventional), and I can't imagine the seal material being any different than smallblock fords.
 
I thought he was talking about GT-1 Synth 5w-40 which definately meets it.
 
Anyone used Kendall GT-1. I was thinking of using a synthetic oil but I may try to find the best petroleum based.
 
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