Kendall 10w30 soup / 1500 mi Subaru winter oil mix / newbie uoa

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Re: Mostly Kendall gt-1 10w30 soup, 1500 mi Subaru winter oil mix.

MOO/Oil: 1500mi. / approx 3qt 10w-30 Kendall dino + 1 qt M1ss 15w50 + additives
Dates: OC/Sample 30.9.2003 / 1.2.2004
Engine/MOE: subaru 1.8l, ej18 / 114,000 mi
Lab / Data: mtm industrial
Al 1
Chr 0
Cu 4
Fe 0
Pb 2
Tin 0
Si 5
K 0
Na 12
Mo 205
Water 0.2

Properties of the soup:
Oxid less than 2
Vis@100 11.8
Nitration 2.7

Glyc not detected
Fuel 3.6

--those are all the numbers--

I couldn't handle the low rate of UOA's here so I finally sent in my first sample ever last week; the oil only has 1500 miles on and is four months old. This is my first UOA and this now officially makes me a BITOG oil addict.

Since this is a new car to me (Impreza bought at ~110K) I was mainly worried about some disaster like coolant in oil. I was also worried about high wear due to other causes such as short trips and winter conditions, but this worry luckily turned out to be those from a hypochondriac-like oilhead, except for the fuel detected, 3.6%. I was very happy that no wear was detected at all, although realistically this is probably due to uncertainties in instrumentation; but very low wear apparently. Na might be high from additives I dumped in the mix. No glycol detected and just a trace of Silicon.

Re additives and the Kendall soup:
Contains an effective net estimated 1/2 to 3/4 bottle of molyslip added after oil change, and ~1/2 bottle of kmart STP clone shortly before sampling at 1500 mi which I hoped would add zinc to the soup. The reason for the uncertainty in amount of molyslip (mr. moly) is that I drained approx 1 qt of the Kendall dino (after adding mr. moly) 100 to 300 mi into the OCI in order to thicken the viscosity with 1 qt of M1 15w50 and in order to do a visual inspection of the oil. (Yeah, it's complicated and these are all possible symptoms of an oil hypochondriac.) Considering one would expect 800-900 ppm moly from a full dose of mr. moly & about 4 to 5 ppm FE according to a prev post (do a search on molyslip in the VOA board), I think these are some possibilities or contributing factors:
a.) stuff settled at bottom, drained when draining 1 to 1.5 qts of 10w30 which i replaced with 15w50, hence may have gotten rid of most of the molyslip.
b.) lab instrumentation saturation or error in sampling the moly
c.) molyslip reformulated their product; the previous product did seem to be overkill regarding the moly levels--if so this is unfortunate, I was hoping that can i have left over would last me for 4 OCI's judging from the VOA on molyslip.

I plan to sample this again at a higher mileage, 3000 to 4000 mi so that one can make better sense of the wear numbers (which I assume are +- one two, or three ppms perhaps.) Once I get a background idea on wear patterns with another 2 UOAs, I can move on to a fuller spectrum UOA, like Blackstone.

Oh, another thing, when I sampled the oil in the white plastic container and did a visual inspection I was slightly worried about the tan/camoflage green tint of the oil. I suppose this is due to the moly and all the other gunk, luckily not coolant.

Also, the Mobil 1 is doing a good job keeping the viscosity up despite fuel contamination plus the cold weather is going away; current oil should be good for at least another 2K in my opinion.

[ February 09, 2004, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: giant_robo ]
 
Yes Al, I tend to agree with you somewhat, though I'm not sure it requires immediate action. I don' t drive much and I think I will wait until end of the winter at least. Viscosity is still in grade too.

I do do lot's of short trips, and or course the winter temps add to the high fuel number. My driving style also has something to do with it, too, probably. I tend to lug the engine and try to get optimal mpg's while driving in town. Plus I m somewhat new to driving manuals regularly, so I am not always in the right gear. Thicker oil might prevent fuel-air blowby, I'll put in 15w40 in for the summer oil when we start to have warmer weather in springtime.

Viscosity is still in the high end for a 10w30, due to the qt of 15w-50 I added. So as long as it's in grade shouldn't the fuel dilution be only a minor problem?

Also, if I go for some longer trips, the fuel will start to evaporate from the hot oil.

The lab guide had this to say about fuel dilution:

"Fuel dilution: measured in % vol, can indicate faulty combustion, rich air/fuel mixture when present at between 2% to 5% (I lie smack in the middle). An injector problem or internal fuel line leak is typically indicated when fuel is detected at high levels."

Maybe I should also run a fuel inj cleaner add sometime.

In the comments pertaining to my particular UOA:
"All engine wear rates normal. Sample appears free of external contamination. Trace level of fuel detected."

[ February 09, 2004, 10:42 PM: Message edited by: giant_robo ]
 
don't smoke with oil filler off....on second thought don't smoke...

1500 miles is way too soon to comment. Nice writing and good details, no offense, but it just seems like a lot of work...I guess I'm the same way.
 
All these Mobil 1 UOA's are getting boring. Thanks for throwing some ZDDP in there, although it might be a bit thick for winter.

Don't know if I'd believe in the approach but at least it's more interesting. Keep testing and let us know what's happening.
 
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