Just run M1 0w-40 Euro .....?

[Patman]

Originally Posted by addyguy
The 'regular' M1 0W-40 is still a high-Calcium detergent formula, and it may be a problem for your DI engines.



What also worries me about running M1 0w40 in a DI engine is that 1.34% sulfated ash! I think that'll help to contribute to a lot of intake valve deposits.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted by dblshock
tweek that to edge 0/40 and your golden.

Not that it's my business in the slightest, but what happened to your turbo Civic?

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I would be confident with dual injection setups such as newer Fords eco boosts and Toyota's.
Of course my Direct injected BMW (2012 328i) ran entirely on full SAPS engine oil recommended by the manufacturer, the new owner (a friend)has yet to report any issues after adding 60k Additional miles. So that's a big it depends.

Depends if it's a o
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by addyguy
The 'regular' M1 0W-40 is still a high-Calcium detergent formula, and it may be a problem for your DI engines.



What also worries me about running M1 0w40 in a DI engine is that 1.34% sulfated ash! I think that'll help to contribute to a lot of intake valve deposits.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by addyguy
The 'regular' M1 0W-40 is still a high-Calcium detergent formula, and it may be a problem for your DI engines.



What also worries me about running M1 0w40 in a DI engine is that 1.34% sulfated ash! I think that'll help to contribute to a lot of intake valve deposits.

I am not sure why M1 went with such high sulfated ash, but as soon as I saw it when it got out in 2015, I was like: it ain't going into my VW.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by Bryanccfshr

I would be confident with dual injection setups such as newer Fords eco boosts and Toyota's.
Of course my Direct injected BMW (2012 328i) ran entirely on full SAPS engine oil recommended by the manufacturer, the new owner (a friend)has yet to report any issues after adding 60k Additional miles. So that's a big it depends.

Depends if it's a o
Originally Posted by Patman
Originally Posted by addyguy
The 'regular' M1 0W-40 is still a high-Calcium detergent formula, and it may be a problem for your DI engines.



What also worries me about running M1 0w40 in a DI engine is that 1.34% sulfated ash! I think that'll help to contribute to a lot of intake valve deposits.


Post N54 engines, BMW's are pretty good with CBU, regardless that they do not have dual injection.

 

[josephp732]

Thanks everyone for their input. So I certainly learned a lot, especially that M1 0w-40 with high calcium and high sulfate ash could be an issue in DI engines. Originally I was just concerned about NOACK volatility with M1 0W-40 being very low at 6.2.

I like the idea of carving out the VW and just running 5W-30 across all the other vehicles - based on the bias toward Castrol I guess Edge 5W-30 would fit the bill, being an API SN+ oil? Thoughts on going this route?

Side note - I have run at least one OC with M1 0W-40 in the following:

Ford Expedition Ecoboost V6 - the truck ran much "smoother" then with the PPU 5W-30 that I normally would use - I was impressed with how much of a difference there was - 5k OCI's
RAM 1500 - V6 - the truck ran about the same with no noticeable difference from the factory fill (with the purchase of the truck I had a couple of free dealer oil changes) - 5k OCI's
Honda Ridgeline V6 - the truck ran a lot quieter over ZEPRO Eco Medalist Advanced Moly 0W-20 Engine Oil - this is a daily driver that sees about 100 miles a day in very heavy stop and go driving - I follow the Honda maintenance indicator
VW Jetta - No noticeable difference from the factory fill - the Jetta gets 5k OCI, each 5K miles I rotate doing an OC then taking it to the dealer so the oil change is documented for the 7 year warranty

Ford Edge 2.0 Ecoboost - the SUV has only had PP 5W-30 run in it - 5k OCI's
Nissan Titan XD - I have only used ZEPRO Eco Medalist Advanced Moly 0W-20 Engine Oil - 5k OCI's
Mazda2 - This simple engine has over 200k miles on it and has run many different brands of synthetic oil and many different viscosities, this is a world car for Mazda with sales over 500,000 units - I think engine would run on cooking to Texas crude! - 7.5k OCI's

 

[earthbound]

Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by dblshock
tweek that to edge 0/40 and your golden.

Not that it's my business in the slightest, but what happened to your turbo Civic?


it seized because he wasn't using the honda recommended 0w20..j/k....actually I believe he gave it to his son.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
....
The scientists would probably say to run 0W40 in that VW, but not in the others you listed.



Have to agree here...the 0w-40 will do very well, EXCEPT in the turbo/DI engines where LSPI is a problem with the higher calcium.

 

[Pinoak]

Originally Posted by josephp732
Not worrying about warranties or a slight MPG hit is there any reason to not to standardize and run Mobil One 0W-40 Euro across my fleet of seven "standard - non exotic" cars and trucks? The highest oil spec car that we own requires VW 502.00/505.00 and with M1 0W-40 Euro being less than $23.00 (5 qt) at Wally World it's pretty economical and would make stocking oil in the garage much easier. Typically I run 5k to 7.5k OCI's depending on the vehicle.

- Ford Expedition Ecoboost DI 3.5l twin turbo V6
- Ford Escape Ecoboost DI 2.0l turbo I-4
- Ram 1500 PI 3.6l V-6
- Honda Ridgeline DI 3.5l V-6
- Nissan Titan DI 5.6l V-8
- VW Jetta DI 1.4l turbo I-4
- Mazda - Mazda2 TB 1.5l I-4


I'd say go with it for sure. I like it much better in my vehicles that call for 20 or 30 in N America. Quieter and no noticable decline in gas mileage