Just changed the oil on friends '08 Rav4

[radtech91]

I just did a change for my friend on her '08 Rav4. When I put the car up on the ramps the setup looked like it would be very easy to do. Well, it all was except the drain plug. It took me 20 minutes to get the plug off! The Toyota dealer way over tightened it. Then once I got it off it took a few minutes to try and pry the washer off the oil pan. It was so flat compared to the new one.
The oil filter came off nice and easy with my extension bar and oil cap.
I let it drain for over 30 minutes to get all the convention Toyota oil out and refilled with 4.5 qts of Castrol Edge with Titanium 0W-20. It sounds smoother now, just like my CR-V did when I switched to 0W-20.
The PDF I had from Toyota I found online said what to torque the oil filter and oil drain plug, so at least now they will be torqued correctly. But man was that a pain!

Any one else have that problem with their Toyota?

 

[cmf]

It's the hard metal washers that have this issue. They are more difficult to judge the tightness on when installing, as well as being more difficult to remove. I prefer nylon washers, but the soft metal crush washers are fine too, just can get expensive because you can't re-use them at all.

I've also never used a torque wrench for an oil pan bolt in my life. With the nylon washers it's very easy to estimate the amount of torque and I've never had a leak or issue with removing it. If I had a hydraulic lift where it was easier to use a torque wrench then I'd use it (like at a dealership); not sure what their excuse is.

 

[steve20]

say what--?
My Honda's oil drain plug washer is the original. Doesn't leak at 153K miles
I have never changed an oil plug washer---on any car I've serviced, and I've never had a leak

 

[cmf]

I don't think it's about leaks, it's about ease of removal. You wouldn't have a leak with just the bolt as long as it's tightened enough.

 

[radtech91]

Originally Posted By: cmf
It's the hard metal washers that have this issue. They are more difficult to judge the tightness on when installing, as well as being more difficult to remove. I prefer nylon washers, but the soft metal crush washers are fine too, just can get expensive because you can't re-use them at all.

I've also never used a torque wrench for an oil pan bolt in my life. With the nylon washers it's very easy to estimate the amount of torque and I've never had a leak or issue with removing it. If I had a hydraulic lift where it was easier to use a torque wrench then I'd use it (like at a dealership); not sure what their excuse is.


Originally Posted By: steve20
say what--?
My Honda's oil drain plug washer is the original. Doesn't leak at 153K miles
I have never changed an oil plug washer---on any car I've serviced, and I've never had a leak



I love the ones I have for my Honda, never had a problem. My dealer just gave me a handful of them the first time I went in and I have never had to buy any yet. My Rendezvous has a built in one in the oil plug so I never have to worry about it. But this Toyota one I have never seen one like it before and it cost $1.30 for it! I couldn't believe it was so much for just a little washer.

I like torquing everything just to be safe, plus it is way easier to remove it when the time comes. I don't ever torque the filter on my CR-V or Rendezvous but I have the Toyota Cap Accessory and it made it so easy to torque it I just did.

 

[Oregoonian]

Originally Posted By: steve20
say what--?
My Honda's oil drain plug washer is the original. Doesn't leak at 153K miles
I have never changed an oil plug washer---on any car I've serviced, and I've never had a leak


+1.......on my 03' Ford Focus....have close to 100K on this vehicle.

 

[cmf]

I changed the oil in my friends Civic about a month ago and it was difficult to remove and hard metal. I actually sprained my muscle a little removing it. Maybe some Jiffy Lube place stole the original.

I am still not understanding where the leaking part entered the equation in this thread though. I've actually never seen a leaking drain plug and I've seen all the varieties including just the plug with no gasket/washer (it was a ghetto replacement plug that's just metal).

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: radtech91
I don't ever torque the filter on my CR-V or Rendezvous but I have the Toyota Cap Accessory and it made it so easy to torque it I just did.


What is this Toyota cap accessory of which you speak? How does it work?

 

[rclint]

Originally Posted By: cmf
I don't think it's about leaks, it's about ease of removal. You wouldn't have a leak with just the bolt as long as it's tightened enough.


I disagree some threads may be good enough for no soft washer as a seal (crush washer) between, however most are not, and the more you use a threaded hole/threaded bolt etc the worse it gets as far as leaking goes... The crush washer is just soft material between two hard pieces of metal to form a seal, and I much prefer aluminum crush washers to plastic etc..

 

[radtech91]

Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: radtech91
I don't ever torque the filter on my CR-V or Rendezvous but I have the Toyota Cap Accessory and it made it so easy to torque it I just did.


What is this Toyota cap accessory of which you speak? How does it work?


All it is is a Oil Filter Cap/Wrench that fits their filters but it actually fit he Bosch Distance Plus filter I put on perfectly.

Here is a link to the Toyota page on it. My uncle has a V6 Rav4 and it has the non screw on oil filters and he had to get this tool to get to the filter. But it also works for their screw on filters, which is what I used it for.

 

[5sfe91]

Whenever i get the filters from toyota they have a new drain plug gasket and i just change it out, i;ve never had any issues with the plug. Now the kia soul thats a problem lol

 

[SkyGod]

I'm betting it was serviced at a stealer.
They love to over torque stuff so you have to return.
My first oil change at 1000 miles the filter was torqued perfect from the factory.
After the first free service appointment they had a gorilla torque it.
I took it back at had them re torque it correctly.

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: steve20
say what--?
My Honda's oil drain plug washer is the original. Doesn't leak at 153K miles
I have never changed an oil plug washer---on any car I've serviced, and I've never had a leak



+1

We've had six Hondas and I've never replaced the original washer on any of them.
Tighten the plug enough, but not too much, and it won't be hard to remove.
If you really can't do this, use a torque wrench.

 

[garlicbreadman]

did an 07 rav 4 and it was one of the easiest vehicle to service..dont know why you had trouble.

and you dont need ramps for that vehicle..

 

[rclint]

As to Honda drain plugs I as well drive a Honda (Accord) and one had 250K + and still original drain plug with aluminum crush washer, never a problem...

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: radtech91
All it is is a Oil Filter Cap/Wrench that fits their filters but it actually fit he Bosch Distance Plus filter I put on perfectly.

Here is a link to the Toyota page on it. My uncle has a V6 Rav4 and it has the non screw on oil filters and he had to get this tool to get to the filter. But it also works for their screw on filters, which is what I used it for.


OK, it's for the cartridge style filter setup, but you used it for the spin on filter, I got it

 

[cmf]

Originally Posted By: rclint
Originally Posted By: cmf
I don't think it's about leaks, it's about ease of removal. You wouldn't have a leak with just the bolt as long as it's tightened enough.


I disagree some threads may be good enough for no soft washer as a seal (crush washer) between, however most are not, and the more you use a threaded hole/threaded bolt etc the worse it gets as far as leaking goes... The crush washer is just soft material between two hard pieces of metal to form a seal, and I much prefer aluminum crush washers to plastic etc..


It could theoretically happen, I've just never seen it in practice. My own car doesn't leak any oil until it's almost entirely un-threaded (even with extremely hot [and consequentially thin] oil). I've left it half unthreaded for a good 15 minutes because I had gotten the wrong drain pan and then got a phone call. When I came back there was not a drop of oil on the bolt.

I fail to see that it's the norm to need crush washers, in my experience that's the rare case to require a washer for a seal. It might however be the norm if you go to jiffy lubes that use impact wrenches to over-torque your bolt and consequentially destroy the grooves for the threading. I don't claim to be the ultimate changer of oils though, so it's entirely possible my view is short sighted.

The one car I have seen that leaks without a crush washer actually has 2 sets of grooves in it. One is the real set and the other is like someone put the bolt in angled and then used an impact wrench and made a whole different set of grooves. The first time I was putting the bolt back on I was really confused. Also the rubber seal on the bolt on that car was completely destroyed (it had the rubber seal/bolt combo).

 

[buickman50401]

Originally Posted By: cmf
I changed the oil in my friends Civic about a month ago and it was difficult to remove and hard metal. I actually sprained my muscle a little removing it. Maybe some Jiffy Lube place stole the original.

Next time, put the wrench on it and give the wrench a few whacks with a rubber mallet (or the palm of your hand). The "shock" imparted by the impact of the mallet will help loosen up overtorqued bolts.

 

[johnsmellsalot]

When I first changed my oil, I also had a hard time getting the drain plug off. I finally got it off by tapping the wrench with the wooden part of a hammer.

This is my first car. I will always change my own oil. Mainly because I can use high quality products for the same price shops charge.

 

[shrooms]

Fumoto drain plug....done.