Just bought New Toro/Honda Walk-Behind Mower

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And it's sweet!:) It has the GCV160 Honda engine. I read the book for the engine (by honda) and it states to change the oil after the first 5hrs of use, and after that every 1yr/50hrs. So for me it's 1x yr after the initial 5hr change. They are calling for 10w-30 for general use and SAE 30wt for temps 60F+ or heavy duty mowing. I have about 1hr of average, st Augustine lawn, so I really doubt I fall under the HD conditions. I've mowed a lot of grass down in FL, which falls under the HD situation of mower stalling out, grass is 3' high etc. I've always used SAE 30 for the first year or two then switched my engines to SAE 40wt. Mind you these were 1980's, and mid 90's Briggs L-head engines that saw 1/2 acre per cut, 2x week in bad conditions, running them hard, WOT etc. But this is a brand new, 2009 Honda, OHV engine mowing a small sub division lawn 1x week/1hr per cut. So what do you guys think? I'm debating running just 10-30 Dino or 10-30 M1. Should I hold off on the 10-30 M1 for the first change, and do 10-30 dino?
 
Whadya get a Toro Super Bagger?

twpm_20192_r_xl.jpg


Nice machine.


Joel
 
Just out of habit, I would use a conventional 10W-30 for the first change at 5 hrs., then on the next change use the synthetic 10W-30 of your choice. The Amsoil mentioned above is a good oil, but for your application so is the Mobil 1 10W-30 you mentioned as well as Platinum 10W-30.

Nice mower.
 
Sweet mower! One of the best decks, with one of the best engines. The Honda 160 is a real gem, you'll love it. Unfortunately, mine is mounted to a [censored] mower (Troybilt) but it gets the job done. I use PP 10w30 in mine and it runs like an electric motor. For the 5 hour break in I used the dino oil that came in the box.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I could have sworn Honda said to change oil out every 25 hrs.


They did back when I bought my Craftsman-Honda back in 2000. I believe they have changed their recommendation a few years back. I have used Mobil 1, 5W30, changed once a year at about 55 to 65 hours, and have NEVER had to add oil from one oil change to the next. I have an hour meter on my mower, and it presently has 0ver 510 hours on it. Don't see much reason to change oil more frequently.

I kinda wish this Honda engine would wear out, so I would have reason to treat myself to one more new mower before I get too old to do my own yardwork. I'll be 73 in November, so it had better hurry. It started on the first pull day before yesterday, so it shows no sign of wearing out yet.
 
Originally Posted By: 1999nick
I kinda wish this Honda engine would wear out, so I would have reason to treat myself to one more new mower before I get too old to do my own yardwork.


There's no such thing because at that point you could get a riding mower.
 
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Sweet mower! One of the best decks, with one of the best engines. The Honda 160 is a real gem, you'll love it. Unfortunately, mine is mounted to a [censored] mower (Troybilt) but it gets the job done. I use PP 10w30 in mine and it runs like an electric motor. For the 5 hour break in I used the dino oil that came in the box.


What's wrong with a Troy-Bilt?
 
Troy-Bilt? Oh you mean an MTD/Murray/Weedeater/Yard King/Yard Man/Troy Bilt? All the same thing now. The Troy Bilts of old were quality, long lasting machines. Now, they're just a good place for me to harvest Briggs and Stratton Quantum engines for other mowers/uses.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Sweet mower! One of the best decks, with one of the best engines. The Honda 160 is a real gem, you'll love it. Unfortunately, mine is mounted to a [censored] mower (Troybilt) but it gets the job done. I use PP 10w30 in mine and it runs like an electric motor. For the 5 hour break in I used the dino oil that came in the box.


What's wrong with a Troy-Bilt?


1) The transmission went out in the middle of my back yard with ~60 hours of light duty on it. $180 for the repair (I lost the purchase reciept, my own fault, so no warranty claim). After some research I found this is a common repair with this mower. Has been for several years, and there's no updated transmission.

2) The wheels & attaching mounts are very flimsy and move around a lot (almost as if it had a suspension). It wasn't like this at all when I first got it, and its getting progressivly worse. And no, there are no loose nuts/bolts.

3) The entire handle assembly is wobbly and will move around while mowing, making it hard to keep the mower straight. And again, there are no loose nuts/bolts.

4) It feels like the mower has 500 hours on it. It feels worn out and its only 2 years old.

5) It weighs a ton!

I borrowed my wife's grandfather's 12 year old self propelled Toro when my Troybilt was getting repaired. It felt like it was brand new. Everything was still tight and nothing wobbled around. I couldn't believe how sturdy the wheels were. It was light, easy to steer and turn. It just made me realize how cheap the Troybilt really was. I only blame myself though because I didn't shop around very much. Whats worse is I actually enjoy doing yardwork. The only thing I enjoy about this mower is the Honda engine.
 
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I've got the Honda engine. I run M1 EP 10-30. Be a sport and change the oil every 25 hours. Last change after the last mow in the Fall.
 
Yes, that's the mower pictured up top! 20192 Super Bagger. 79Lb mower, aluminum deck, RWD, nice big wheels etc. Can't wait to use it. Yes the Honda book says every 50hrs. For me, I'll be mowing approx 30hrs per year. So I will change it 1x/yr. I guess the days of running SAE 40 Dino are over lol. Meet 2009 Hondas, and 10w-30 Syn oil. I feel better knowing others have had good luck with such weights. I know after 2yrs of cutting the old large properties those old engines would start sucking down the 30wt. 40wt is what made them last. When I worked at a mower shop, all the HD commercial, I mean real deal commercial equipment got 40wt. No commercial guy would let us fill it with 30wt unless it was newer than 1yr old. But things are different now. I'll get me some 10-30 M1 or PP and call it good. Still seems odd putting 10-30 into a mower!!
 
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Originally Posted By: 4x4taco
.. I'll get me some 10-30 M1 or PP and call it good. Still seems odd putting 10-30 into a mower!!


10w30 is what Honda specs. It doesn't necessarily mean that's the best viscosity range for you though. Running that mower in Florida heat, I'd use Shell Rotella-T 5w40 after ~2 OC's with a conventional 10w30. Rotella-T 15w40 also does well in these engines. I've got a Honda GC from 1999 that still purrs like a kitten w/ little/no maintenance. It's had the same batch of either R-T 5w40 or 15w40 in it for a few years.

Joel
 
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How often do you sharpen the blades on your Accord?
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Hey Taco, if you are indecisive, buy the Amsoil small engine ASE oil! It's a 30wt. that has the properties of a 10w30. You will kill 4 birds with one stone...synthetic, 1 yr. OCI, 30 wt., and 10w30 wt.

Maybe it doesn't matter in the Florida heat, but I still wonder if 15w40 makes a small engine work harder and hotter (more resistance/friction).
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I've got the Honda engine. I run M1 EP 10-30. Be a sport and change the oil every 25 hours. Last change after the last mow in the Fall.


Why should I change every 25 hours? True, in 2000, the manual for my Honda 160 GCV said 25 hours, but I've been changing once a year for the last nine years, with an approximate average OCI of 60 hours, and it still shows full on the dipstick at the end of this 60 hour OCI. I have never had to add a drop of oil between OCI's

As I have mentioned about 20 times on this site, I have an hour meter on this mower, and it is presently at almost 520 hours. Up until last year, I used my old stock Mobil 1 5W30 SL. I am now using M1 10W30 High Mileage, which is still an SL formulation.
 
Originally Posted By: punisher
Seriously, change it out after the first hour to get the glitter out. GCV engines luv the GC.


I've never seen glitter come out of my GCV190.
 
After 5hrs I'll change it to 10-30 YB. Maybe on the 2nd change I'll do M1/PP. I'm not going to go overboard picking oil for a mower if I'm within spec, and using a premium oil.
 
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