JT20's running Infiniti J30 condition assessment and maintenance thread

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Absolutely!! My Z got nothing but Nissan oem. I bought from ConceptZ all the time. Coz Ceh was the owner. Great guy to work with!! If you lived close I would install it for you.

Well, shoot. I AM coming to Texas but I'm gonna need to get the AC to work before that LOL
 
Absolutely!! My Z got nothing but Nissan oem. I bought from ConceptZ all the time. Coz Ceh was the owner. Great guy to work with!! If you lived close I would install it for you.
This guy can barely afford to pay more than 1k for a car. You could buy 5-6 Dayco pulleys for the price of an OEM. Pulleys aren't that hard to screw up. I'd just get the Dayco one. How's Dayco as a brand? It's on closeout too, it's normally a $30 pulley.
 
This guy can barely afford to pay more than 1k for a car. You could buy 5-6 Dayco pulleys for the price of an OEM. Pulleys aren't that hard to screw up. I'd just get the Dayco one. How's Dayco as a brand? It's on closeout too, it's normally a $30 pulley.
Yup, with something this easy to change, at like 1/7th the price, it's worth just getting the Dayco, particularly given the other items that we know need attention, not to mention those we don't know about/haven't discovered yet.
 
I might be able to get a socket down on there too.

Time to go to sleep but maybe tomorrow I can see.
 
Spindle nut that size? That’s awful small. The way I understood is he has to take the spindle nut off.

Here's the pic of the unit from the E-bay listing the OP linked:
1610843721387.png


Looks like it could be 13mm or 15mm, it isn't very big.
 
The real surprise isn't that they don't cost a lot, but that they still make them for this car! :D

If that sole idler pulley listed for the J30 isn't the one he needs or doesn't fit, he's out of luck! :poop::alien::eek:
Nissan aren't going to reengineer an idler pulley or hood prop strut when there are off-the-shelf parts that will do the job. Maybe the idler pulley bracket but the rib spacing etc is an industry standard.
 
For $13 I would buy that one. Note that stamped steel aftermarket idlers (which the ebay assembly also has) are welded together thus the bearing can't be removed. But it's only $13.

I will repeat what someone else said: don't buy any parts for this car until you have clear title in your name.
 
Yes. I'm suspicious, this car seems way too good for the price. I can think of a lot of reasons for that, most of them not good.

I am hesitant too, but I think perhaps there are enough nags to justify the price...

No AC
Rust on rear fender
Rust and paint failure on roof
Discolored steering wheel
Ripped seat
Hood won’t stay open
Potential timing belt due

etc.

Some folks are just uncomfortable with cars over 100k, and some folks balk at the first major repair.

OP can give more of the story, but I thought I read that it was an extra car and not getting much use. Have to wonder if it was inherited, and once a few things went bad, they just wanted to unload it. Insurance could be pricy for them, they might have tried to trade it and got a bad offer, who knows?

Overall I think it might be an issue of pricing it due to death by a thousand paper cuts. Plus, with covid, it might just not be getting many views, and people just aren’t that interested because they’re not driving that much...

But time will tell. Carfax looked good.. not reported stolen, recovered, etc.

The last dealer service on the other page indicated engine check. I do think OP shoukd try to get a copy of that invoice to see what they recommend or found...
 
...But time will tell. Carfax looked good.. not reported stolen, recovered, etc.

The last dealer service on the other page indicated engine check. I do think OP shoukd try to get a copy of that invoice to see what they recommend or found...

Guess I missed the Carfax, that’s promising...
 
Likely 14 mm maybe 12 how hard is it to just try?
Well I ended up doing just that. Last night was an early night for me and I woke up about a half hour ago. So let me post what I was originally going to post.

So, a day and one stunk-up garage later, I can move the pulley a little bit but all that was mostly for the nut on the end. It turns out a 14mm nut DOES fit on there.

So, I am a lot closer to being able to get the pulley off.

The one question I have, before I go one-arm muscling down in there, is if they are standard "Righty Tighty Lefty Loosie" threads or if they are reversed, like I saw on the Buick video. True that this is not a Buick...
 
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