JT20's running Infiniti J30 condition assessment and maintenance thread

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Officially the bearing is only sold complete with pulley, which might cost about $40 if still available, but it is almost certainly a generic 6200 series ball bearing that only costs a few dollars. Putting a new bearing in an old pulley would involve a few minutes with a press.
Yeah, this. Measure the bearing in millimeters and get a new one on ebay or through amazon. A 6203 will be 17 x 40 x 12mm. Existing bearing may even have numbers on it somewhere.

Put the idler on two blocks of wood, line up a 20-something mm socket on the bearing part, and knock it out with a hammer. Put the new bearing in the freezer and it should slide in pretty easily.
 
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Why don't you start a thread on the Subie then ask real nice like if a moderator could please move the Subie post to the new thread and reopen the J30 thread and then maybe everyone will act right and not post about the Subie except in the Subie thread.

There is no magic spray for idler pulleys.

Agree it you remove the pulley itself and can ge the bearing out you can probably buy said bearing....
 
I can't speak for your J30, but in the past, most pulley assemblies had a bearing with the manufacturer's (Timkin, SKF, etc.) name and number on it. So you could simply get the replacement bearing, pressing the old one out and put a new one in. I recently got some replacement pulleys for my Ranger that had absolutely no numbers on the bearing at all. You're probably just better off buying the whole pulley and bearing assembly anyway.
 
Considering that the idler pulley is $13 on rockauto, I'd just get the idler pulley. Assuming that's the correct one that is.
 
Check out what I did. :)
20210116_165305.jpg
 
Indeed, and the shop he dealt with for the Subaru may have a press and could save him a few bucks going that route.

I actually really like that idea. You may very well be on to something!

I'm dropping it back off so that we can check the work and make sure there are no nasties. This Subaru is running like a champ... okay I think it was mentioned the Subaru discussion should be in a Subaru thread
And the J30 discussion in a J30 thread

And I don't want to go getting too far ahead of myself today, BUT:

.1 I Returned the $40 of things (3 things.. quart of M1 0W-40, headlight kit I instead fixed with a $3 can of aluminum polish, and the MAF/TB) today.

2. I MAY have figured a way to have both the Subaru and J30 on the road at once but let me now sidetrack it with that. Basically, that revolves around the Taurus.

3. I did the unthinkable today.... I had a jug of Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 in my hand and was in the process of rationalizing my $20 puchase.. AND I PUT THE JUG DOWN AND LEFT THE AISLE.

I know. I'm speechless. I didn't think I could do something like that.
 
R&R pulley consists of remove spindle nut, take pulley off, put new pulley on, replace nut and tighten belt. If you do this yourself you have to be careful to keep the three or 4 special washers and spacers in the right orientation and order when putting back together.

Officially the bearing is only sold complete with pulley, which might cost about $40 if still available, but it is almost certainly a generic 6200 series ball bearing that only costs a few dollars. Putting a new bearing in an old pulley would involve a few minutes with a press.

True, bearings can usually be replaced. But it's probably not a realistic option in this case, if spraying a seized bearing with lube seems like a viable remedy. So the OP would still have to pull the pulley, or pay someone to, and then pay for someone to press the old and new bearings. Which will probably cost more than a new parts store pulley.
 
How dare you say Channellock makes vise grips 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. It’s IRWIN that made original vise grips.

I'm gonna get nit-picky here, but the Irwin-made vise grips are a sore subject in this area. Here's why:
The ORIGINAL vice-grips were made by Peterson, not Irwin. He was an immigrant who started his factory and produced American-made tools just a few miles north of me in DeWitt, Nebraska. Decades ago, my brother did some temporary winter work there, packing the vice grip locking pliers into crates for overseas shipments. After Peterson sold out, it went through a few different owners until Irwin bought it. Irwin started the downhill slide of the company and closed doors (2008-ish) and moved production to China. About 300 workers were laid off (in a town of about 600).
The building was idle until Malco bought the old facilities and, as of a few months ago, is making an American-made locking pliers. (Notice I didn't say Vise-Grips :)) It's more accurate to say Irwin BOUGHT the original Vise-Grips and moved them overseas.
 
I'm gonna get nit-picky here, but the Irwin-made vise grips are a sore subject in this area. Here's why:
The ORIGINAL vice-grips were made by Peterson, not Irwin. He was an immigrant who started his factory and produced American-made tools just a few miles north of me in DeWitt, Nebraska. Decades ago, my brother did some temporary winter work there, packing the vice grip locking pliers into crates for overseas shipments. After Peterson sold out, it went through a few different owners until Irwin bought it. Irwin started the downhill slide of the company and closed doors (2008-ish) and moved production to China. About 300 workers were laid off (in a town of about 600).
The building was idle until Malco bought the old facilities and, as of a few months ago, is making an American-made locking pliers. (Notice I didn't say Vise-Grips :)) It's more accurate to say Irwin BOUGHT the original Vise-Grips and moved them overseas.
I didn’t know that. I have some old Irwin USA ones I thought they were from about the 70s or 80s LOL 😂
 
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