JT20's running Infiniti J30 condition assessment and maintenance thread

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This is not the proper way to set up ramps. Push the ramps under the car all the way back until they are touching the tire before you get into the car to drive on.

(If the ramps are so tall that they hit the body of the car when you try to do that, they are not suitable for that car. Jack it up instead.)
 
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Get rid of the battery charger! You charged it once. It's good. You need to get all systems up to snuff, not just the ones you understand. The charger is serving as a distraction with your multi-tasking personality.

Access to the AC compressor may be easier from underneath the bumper, especially if there's a splash shield that comes off.

Agree with the rock auto suggestion. 99 percent of hood struts, you pry off a little clip that covers the ball joint, then the ball joint just pops off. Though it's proper to change both, you may need only one. Take one at a time off and feel how heavy the hood is to get a clue as to what strength remains in the other strut.

I'll disagree with MK, sometimes with RWD you need a 6 inch running start for ramps. They are a challenge. Hit them too hard/ fast and you can bottom out and/or push one or both forward.
 

JT20

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There may be a separate idler or tensioner for the AC belt.

So, if the TB's are clean, you wasted money on that spray ;)
We didn't check the Subaru's TB :)

Although.. yeah, I see your point, have to look for something to use it on.

I almost impulsively bought TWO things today, but settled on the MAF cleaner (it was suggested I clean the MAF sensor) but the Walmart Nation populace bought all the standalone MAF cleaner so, I got the double pack. Only one was left in tact, someone opened the other...
 
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JT20

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I don’t think you were asked to spin the fan clutch. Rather the AC clutch on the compressor.

Do you have pics in the TBs (closed and with flap open), or just of the TBs (which doesnt do us much good)?
The AC clutch spins.. I must have mistakenly spun fan clutch lol

The TBs I didn't open it yet,maybe tomorrow before work
 

JT20

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This is not the proper way to set up ramps. Push the ramps under the car all the way back until they are touching the tire before you get into the car to drive on.

(If the ramps are so tall that they hit the body of the car when you try to do that, they are not suitable for that car. Jack it up instead.)

When I push the ramps to the tire, the car goes partway up the driver side one and just pushes the passenger side one.

That's why that ramp is far out in front, I backed up the car and didn't get to move it back yet
 

JT20

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So I just want to say before I doze off to sleep.. the TB cleaner just so happened to be the only configuration in which I could buy the MAF cleaner and not go into a parts store, something I told myself I would not do in 2021.. lol.
 

JHZR2

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The AC clutch spins.. I must have mistakenly spun fan clutch lol

The TBs I didn't open it yet,maybe tomorrow before work
Of course it will spin when unlocked, the question becomes if the magnetic clutch engages it, and if when engaged, it is seized.
 

JT20

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Of course it will spin when unlocked, the question becomes if the magnetic clutch engages it, and if when engaged, it is seized.

That belt does look super easy to slip on.. I wonder if I can get it on by hand?

Is it really that easy to just stretch it a little bit by hand and it's on? Or is a tool needed.

I like that I don't have to go into a parts store (New Years resolution. I really don't like those overpriced brick and mortar stores.. Haven't thought of NAPA) to get the belt. RockAuto seems the way to go on that?
 

JHZR2

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The belts don’t just get forced on. Either a spring loaded tensioner used, or the positioning of the accessory is adjusted to get the right tension and deflection of the belt. Thus why I’ve asked for a pic of the compressor.

If the belt was removed for a reason, like a failed compressor, putting a new good one on and engaging it could be asking for trouble. Investigation is necessary... don’t go buying belts yet.
 
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the TB cleaner just so happened to be the only configuration in which I could buy the MAF cleaner...
Think about that some more. It was the "only" way you could buy it at that moment, in that store. In other words, a total impulse purchase. You still don't know if you need it. You probably don't. MAFs don't really need routine cleaning. It's mostly worn engines that foul them with oil, or using K&N filters with oil.

Anyway back to the A/C. Like @JHZR2 said, Don't buy anything. You're still inspecting and evaluating. If the compressor is shot, slapping a belt on will be a total waste of money. An important test is to turn the front plate of the compressor, the part with the rivets and flat springs on it. It needs to be able to move.

It's hard to believe that you've had this many cars and have no clue how to R&R belts. This one is a typical Japanese design like my Honda Civic. Under the direction of a competent mechanic with basic metric hand tools, the idler pulley can be moved to loosen or tighten the belt. It doesn't stretch on. Stretch-on belts are a very recent invention.


Working from underneath, loosen (do not remove) the spindle nut 3401A then loosen the jack bolt 11925G and push the pulley up toward the engine. Put the belt over the pulleys (to allow that, the power steering belt needs to be temporarily removed, not covered here). It will start out loose. Tighten the jack bolt to achieve proper tension then tighten the spindle nut. Although the jack bolt doesn't affect anything after the spindle is tight, if it happens to be loose it can vibrate out and get lost. So go back with a extra little torque tightening the jack bolt to be sure it stays put.
 
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JT20

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Think about that some more. It was the "only" way you could buy it at that moment, in that store. In other words, a total impulse purchase. You still don't know if you need it. You probably don't. MAFs don't really need routine cleaning. It's mostly worn engines that foul them with oil, or using K&N filters with oil.

Anyway back to the A/C. Like @JHZR2 said, Don't buy anything. You're still inspecting and evaluating. If the compressor is shot, slapping a belt on will be a total waste of money. An important test is to turn the front plate of the compressor, the part with the rivets and flat springs on it. It needs to be able to move.

It's hard to believe that you've had this many cars and have no clue how to R&R belts. This one is a typical Japanese design like my Honda Civic. Under the direction of a competent mechanic with basic metric hand tools, the idler pulley can be moved to loosen or tighten the belt. It doesn't stretch on. Stretch-on belts are a very recent invention.

The reason I am proud of myself is that I did not also impulse buy WD40 Specialist: Silicone as well. That said... maybe I can return the item for an $8 credit (the TB/MAF cleaner.)

I will watch a video about the belt.

I am surprised the Infiniti does not have an AC button...
 
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Luxury cars often don't. It's automatic based on the driver setting a preference for inside temperature, like a house. This is of course a more complicated system than the simple button found in economy cars, and one of the reasons why owning an antique luxury car can become quite a headache.

If you start the engine and choose "defrost", the compressor clutch should snap in with an audible sound. At least for a second-- it may have a Toyota type system that senses compressor rpm and flags an error if the belt is broken.

I can tell you for sure that the A/C is not going to make cold the way the car is now. But you don't have to worry about that until spring.
 

JHZR2

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An important test is to turn the front plate of the compressor, the part with the rivets and flat springs on it. It needs to be able to move.

There’s two parts to this, right? The pulley spinning with the clutch disengaged, and then with the clutch engaged.

A pulley that spins with the clutch disengaged might still break a new belt, if engaged against a seized compressor when the engine is running.... no?

Ive never tried to mess with a clutched compressor engaged for a spin test. I would assume the steps are:
1) mess with hvac to listen for audible click of compressor
2) try to spin by hand

Of course the issue would be that to do so would require the engine to be operating, I think. Doubt the ac clutch engages with just the key turned to power on. Might it need to be jumpered somehow to do this safely without the engine running?
 

JT20

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This is all great info guys. Thanks

Will act on it like this weekend or soon.

And ill probably return what I bought and also the Mobil 1.
 

JHZR2

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I would. Chances are you will need at least some of these items. But let’s cross the bridges when we get there. Unless something was on super super sale, no point in wrapping money up in stuff you may not need. It’s easy to do... I know... but let’s get a good basis on if you’re going to keep the car, and what it truly needs in priority order.
 

JT20

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I would. Chances are you will need at least some of these items. But let’s cross the bridges when we get there. Unless something was on super super sale, no point in wrapping money up in stuff you may not need. It’s easy to do... I know... but let’s get a good basis on if you’re going to keep the car, and what it truly needs in priority order.

I gonna leave for work soon...

My first thought: I don't want to sell that car. (The Infiniti.) Reasons why:

1. It's too rare.
2. It's too... cool.
3. I've been through a LOT in my personal life.. particularly in 2020, but really my 30s as well (we could go back farther than that but.) I feel I "deserve" a nice car. I can appreciate it may have to stay on ice...
4. The model name of the car oddly and coolly coincides with my screen name and may make its way to a custom plate of some kind. "J30" or something like that. This was not planned. ("03J," "J301" "J300ZX" who knows.)
5. I like the color.
6. If I sell it, I'll probably never see a J30 for $1000 again THAT AFAIK doesn't need an engine or trans.......
(7. Having driven it two or three times.. I do like it.
Yes, there have been cars I've driven and not liked, like a Volkswagen Fox or a Dodge Ram. But those are few and far between.)

It's not a Ferrari, but I'm not sure I lie Ferraris anymore. It took a LOT for me to change my avatar.

I'm saying. The reasons... Does the above make sense?
 
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OVERKILL

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There’s two parts to this, right? The pulley spinning with the clutch disengaged, and then with the clutch engaged.

A pulley that spins with the clutch disengaged might still break a new belt, if engaged against a seized compressor when the engine is running.... no?

Ive never tried to mess with a clutched compressor engaged for a spin test. I would assume the steps are:
1) mess with hvac to listen for audible click of compressor
2) try to spin by hand

Of course the issue would be that to do so would require the engine to be operating, I think. Doubt the ac clutch engages with just the key turned to power on. Might it need to be jumpered somehow to do this safely without the engine running?

Yes, that's what I tried to stress early on:
1. Test to see if the pulley (clutch is disengaged) spins freely
2. Test to see if the compressor (not the pulley) spins by turning the drive unit, NOT the pulley

He seemed to indicate he tested both, but things were jumping around so I'm not super confident in the answers I received on that.
 

JHZR2

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Yes, that's what I tried to stress early on:
1. Test to see if the pulley (clutch is disengaged) spins freely
2. Test to see if the compressor (not the pulley) spins by turning the drive unit, NOT the pulley

He seemed to indicate he tested both, but things were jumping around so I'm not super confident in the answers I received on that.
So you can easily (assuming not seized) turn that without having the clutch engaged? Ive never tried...
 
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