Johnny, Is Pennzoil 25% better than Formula Shell ?

Yuk

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Edmonton, AB Canada
The best price ever seen for Pennzoil dino is 25% more than what I can currently buy Formula Shell dino for. Is Pennzoil 25% better than Formula Shell ?
 
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I don't think so. That 25% premium to me mostly represents advertising costs and the product's "reputation" as a name brand.
 
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I'll put it this way, I've never seen anyone put 750,000 miles on Formula Shell, but I have seen it with Pennzoil. To me the answer is yes it is. They are two completely different products. Different base stocks and additive package.
 
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I would agree that better TBN retention and longer service life alone would justify the price. For ARX treatment and for chronic 3K changers, maybe not.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by znamya: Nissan, Altima, Pennzoil dino, every 12k, 11 years, currently 450k.NO problem at all. What else to say?
How about "Say What?" [Smile] Am I mis-understanding the reference to 12K - is this the OCI that you run with Pennzoil dino?
 
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quote:
Originally posted by deepsquat: Pennzoil Long Life is a fantastic oil ...don't think the shell $4.00 a gallon can hold a candle to it
The only time I see it is on super cheap sale or at the service level use ie car shops(with those group 7 filters [Eek!] ) and the forklift mechanics.
 
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I saw Shell for 59 cents in our local Checker ad this week. I was curious, but from what you say it doesn't sound any better then my 59 cent Chevron.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Blue99:
quote:
Originally posted by znamya: Nissan, Altima, Pennzoil dino, every 12k, 11 years, currently 450k.NO problem at all. What else to say?
How about "Say What?" [Smile] Am I mis-understanding the reference to 12K - is this the OCI that you run with Pennzoil dino?

[Smile] yes that's right, that's my fathers car, he drives everyday 130miles at cruise control at 65mph. No rush hour trafic. The car probably never seen rpm over 3500 over its life. He drives like old lady. He takes his car to NIssan dealer every 6 months and they use dino penzoil. He does not belive in 3 months or 3000 miles change interval. The manual states every 6 months or 7500miles in his driving scheme. He does not care about the miles, he changes every 6 months. I told him several times to have it changed at every 7500 miles. He told me, the day it throws a rod he will buy a brand new altima. That was 150k ago, still running strong..hard to believe
 
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I'm pleased to hear of these high mileage experiences on Pennzoil as listed above. But surely these are not the type of usage that the normal North American driver experiences. I've only had a few cars that lasted much beyond 120k miles, and only one that exceeded 205k. All of these cars ran on major oil company dino only, and all were retired for reasons other than lubrication failure. In fact, the '90 Chevy 3.1 V6 that lasted 205k was badly sludged, but would have kept running if I'd continued to replace the fuel injectors. To me, the question I'd really like answered is does any lubricant, Pennzoil, synthetic or other have measurable benefits for an engine in average usage that make using it rather than a major oil company dino worth the extra cost? It's okay by me if you want to pat yourself on the back for using the "best", but I'd rather save a few bucks by buying Shell, Citgo, Valvoline or like products as long as I can feel confident that they will do the intended job in average usage and do no harm.
 
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GrtArtiste: Well, if that's what you want to do go ahead. Millions do it. But as you can tell by now, everyone, well most everyone on this board are oil whackos. We are always searching for the so called holy grail of oil. We probably won't ever find it, but it's fun looking. Now in my case, I have worked for Pennzoil for 22 years and have used Pennzoil for 40 years. If someone expects me to change brands they might as well pull out a gun and shoot me. All of the oils you mention meet the latest OEM requirements but there are some oils that are better than others. I just call it cheap insurance and peace of mind. I know if I'm using what I'm using and change it when it needs to be changed that I will never have to worry about varnish, sludge, and all those things. There are a lot of different oils out there and they all have a different following, I just choose to follow this brand. [Smile]
 
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I'm pleased to hear that "some oils are better than others". I'd be pleased to know what they are, and what evidence backs up that claim. I don't mind being educated, and perhaps I can be convinced...but I'm looking for something other than anecdotes and someone's lifetime experience. <<>> I didn't think so.
 
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Grt, Here's a point to ponder...I'd wager that Chevron/Havoline is more robust than Warren Oil Co, the makers of Coastal (NOT WPP) and can go 5000 miles in an average change. Would you go 5K on Coastal Oil? No. Neither would I. Chevron/Havoline (and others, such as Castrol GTX, Pennzoil) would keep sludge and junk away from the average engine, unlike one's that just meet minimum spec's. Peruse the UOA section...I've come to the conclusion that generic oils are OK and meet minimum spec and go 3-4K no problem, but better oils go longer distances and simply are a better value beyond 3K....
 
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Disregarding the few "OK" oils that ToyotaNSaturn describes above, the following statement made by most oil analysis labs seems to fall on deaf ears at BITOG: "under normal conditions, we fail to see significant differences between brands of oil for engine use". It's hard to argue with hundreds of thousands of UOA's.
 
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Well, I could write a book about my life time experiences, but if that won't do for you, just go to the UOA section of this site and spend a couple of weeks reading all the results. Then deside what you want to use. My only suggestion is pick a brand that works for you and stick with it. If 105K to 205K is okay with you, fine. I like taking my old 56 Crown Vic out in the Spring, putting a coat of wax on it and go crusing. When they say, it sure sounds good and ask how many mile are on it, I just smile and say 375,000, and it's the original engine. And that's not an anecodote, it's a fact. My Dad use to tell me you learn from your experiences and I have learned from mine. Just trying to pass on some wisdom. [Smile]
 
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doitmyself , said; "the following statement made by most oil analysis labs seems to fall on deaf ears at BITOG:...." I want you to know that most oil analysis labs do not have the time or expertise to properly interpret most automotive oil analysis reports, unless the oil or engine has GROSS problems. No company tunes an engine from UOA like we do. I agree that brand is not the issue but appropriate chemistry and finding the optimum chemistry for that engine or unit can make significant performance and economy differences towards the positive. Paying $40 for a annual oil analysis will pay for itself in the increased value from the improvements discussed above. Of course most car owners are ignorant of them. Buying a cheap oil analysis kit and getting the standard " the oil and engine are suitable for continued use" are usually WRONG and misleading. I know because I read hundreds of these for $20 each and blow the customers minds on what we can tell from them. My point is this, use analysis instead of guessing or asking for "feel good" ridiculous blanket statements. Every engine and its operating condition are different. PS, when a HONEST rep from a company tells you what he knows about the formulas and you discount that outright, you might want to recalibrate your bias. [ June 06, 2005, 12:55 AM: Message edited by: Terry ]
 
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