Jeep Gladiator 2021 3.6 Oil Analysis Results

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Hi everyone,

My first post here. Just wanted to share my first EOA. I changed the factory oil at 2,700 Miles with Amsoil Signature 0W-20 and a Wix XP filter in September 2021. Moved from FL to MN with a 5K lb trailer. During the winter engine idled 10-15 minutes on cold starts. I have stopped doing that practice a few weeks ago. Just idle 1-2 min and drive. Maybe it contributed to fuel dilution.

Called the Lab tech they stated fuel dilution% is normal for GDI engine. The Boron should improve after 2-3 oil changes to get all traces of factory oil and Amsoil engine flush. Other parameters should settle down once the engine breaks in fully. Jeep currently has 7.3K and planning to replace the oil filter with another Wix XP. Or upgrade to Amsoil filter. My goal is to push the oil as far as possible and try to establish a trend for extended OCI. Jeep will be averaging roughly 7k miles annually
 

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3.6L Pentastar is not a GDI engine so you might want to take that into consideration. Long idle times in cold weather can dilute the oil a bit with fuel. The engine is still breaking in, so aside from no coolant in the oil, and what I mentioned earlier there isn't too much to tell from this report.
 
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I'd use a Chrysler approved oil thru warranty.

"That's all I've got to say bout that". - Forrest Gump
 
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The lab techs comment on boron is puzzling. Boron is part of most oil additive packages. It has a purpose.
 

Nuclear_Inc

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3.6L Pentastar is not a GDI engine so you might want to take that into consideration. Long idle times in cold weather can dilute the oil a bit with fuel. The engine is still breaking in, so aside from no coolant in the oil, and what I mentioned earlier there isn't too much to tell from this report.
Thanks for the clarification on the engine fuel injection. Yeah I’m definitely reducing the idling from now on in the winter.
 

Nuclear_Inc

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Why would you use an engine flush on a virtually new engine?
It’s a good practice to get most of the old oil out. Considering it had 2700k at the time. It’s not a bad idea try to get as much break in material/ assembly grease.
 

Nuclear_Inc

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Why would you use an engine flush on a virtually new engine?
It’s a good practice to get most of the old oil out. Considering it had 2700k at the time. It’s not a bad idea try to get as much break in material/ assembly
The lab techs comment on boron is puzzling. Boron is part of most oil additive packages. It has a purpose.
The tech explained to me that it will take 2-3 oil changes to get all the old oil and flush out. I’m guessing the small mixing of such can affect boron levels in the new oil. I’m not a oil expert by any means.
 
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It’s a good practice to get most of the old oil out. Considering it had 2700k at the time. It’s not a bad idea try to get as much break in material/ assembly grease.
If you're concerned about that do another shorter OCI or two, and skip the flushes. You may kill that engine with kindness and might end up doing more harm than good with flushes.
 

Nuclear_Inc

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If you're concerned about that do another shorter OCI or two, and skip the flushes. You may kill that engine with kindness and might end up doing more harm than good with flushes.
I only did the engine flush to prep for the new amsoil and clean anything out. I don't plan to flush again since I'm planning on sticking with signaure oil.
 
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I only did the engine flush to prep for the new amsoil and clean anything out. I don't plan to flush again since I'm planning on sticking with signaure oil.
No need for prepping a new engine for Amsoil or any other oil for that matter. The new engine is sludge and varnish free, and the assembly lube, if any, that wasn't dumped when you changed the oil is not going to hurt a thing. The flush is not going to remove break in metals, changing the oil does that all by itself. As I mentioned earlier if you're concerned about break in metals do another short OCI, then make the switch to Amsoil. You'll save money on flushes and not risk damaging the new engine introducing solvents so early in its life.
 
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Why flush a clean new engine with only 2.7k on it? And what about boron improving in 2-3 oil changes? that's part of the oils ad pack almost all oils have some amount of it now. And as for the fuel dilution i know that there are versions of the 3.6 with and without gdi and different heads but i don't know which one yours has. And as for idling in the cold that's not necessary with 0w-20 down to about -30f unless you want the interior to heat up first before getting in. It just contributes to dilution. I only let my engines ldle up to 5 seconds in the warm days and about 10 seconds in the coldest days just to let the oil fully circulate before driving off slowly. Have seen a video of 0w-30 in a sohc at -30f taking 12 seconds to lubricate every cam cap.
 
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Flushes are mostly strong solvents that can redissolve varnish/sludge and can be harsh on seals, flushes don't remove any thing more than a regular oil change would on a brand new engine, pentastar engines aren't known to need anything particularly special in terms of oil, almost all the mechanical problems that may be encountered on pentastars are due to design defects that aren't going to be fixed by running over priced oil and using unecessary flushing agents.
 
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Regarding iding, above freezing, 30 seconds MAX and drive away gently. @ mins is 90 seconds too long.
In cold ( sub freezing) weather 1- 2 mins max if un-garaged. If you have to immediately get on a high speed road near the property, consider a block heater.

I am confident your engine will do well with the Amsoil Signature.
 
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This UOA is posted in the wrong place, there is a specific Forum for used oil analysis
This a a PCMO general discussion forum.

Read the rules to include proper information in the header to make it searchable
Read a few posted headers in the UOA forum to get the idea.


Welcome. Yes, there is "tough love" here :)
 
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At least its oil analyzers they have accurate fuel dilution %
the viscosity wasnt low.

By comparison blackstone will tell you 2% but it fell out of viscosity grade.

The only thing I would do on that engine is not use flush and change it
with normal oil. Its not gdi and not hard on oil either.

If you wanted to do extra change the oil every 5-7k and dont run it out to 10k that the oil life monitor will tell you.
Amsoil wont hurt anything but no advantage to using mobil 1 or PP at half price.

if its destined to lose a rocker at 120k no oil is going to change that..
Solvent based Flush can only hurt on a new engine. IMO there is no reason to ever use solvent based flush.

An ester based "flush" on a lightly sludged or highly varnished engine might be useful and not cause issues.
That isnt for a pentastar with 2700 miles either. maybe 102700 miles.

Not to sound overly harsh we all started somewhere and I ran rislone 20 years ago ;)
 
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The lab techs comment on boron is puzzling. Boron is part of most oil additive packages. It has a purpose.
I re read the Techs UOA notes, I think the OP's comments and misunderstanding confused things even further. The tech stated that the PPM was low, but then qualified that statement by saying it is consumed over unit hours in service. He probably should have said nothing or stated that "Boron PPM is below expected VOA doping levels for this oil and that datum is due to this additive being consumed in service"
Even that would make a newbie go, Huh ?!
So, Forget what I just wrote :)
 
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