Thank you, they look nice 
Its time for a new-to-me truck
- Thread starter cptbarkey
- Start date
DIY short throw mod??
WHOA. I don't even have words.
I was a bit agast too. it was in neutral at the time and was in a safe situation but was still very much puckered. I pushed the truck back up the driveway with my other truck.
I have a brand new shift tower and lever coming tomorrow.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2022
- Messages
- 1,128
I was a bit agast too. it was in neutral at the time and was in a safe situation but was still very much puckered. I pushed the truck back up the driveway with my other truck.
I have a brand new shift tower and lever coming tomorrow.
The bolts on the side are a true work of art.
I don't think I've ever felt empathy for a truck before...
The former owner should be forced to drive a Yugo.
A few updates from the past few weeks. New cab lights soldered in. The old ones were wire twisted on. Sigh.
I sent off the fuse box and it should be back this upcoming week. Swapping a few junkyard FCMs didnt help. The circuit board was definitely kaput where all the blinking/hazard stuff happens (lower left). I also asked the repair folks to replace the 3 non serviceable tow light relays (upper right), and have a look at whatever is going on in the center left with the holes.
Out with the old shifter, my god it was disgusting.
In with a new shifter. It feels much, much better.
Onto evaluating the 4wd system, starting with the front differential. Suctioned out the front fluid, it didnt look terrible. In went about 1.5 quarts of Mobil 1 75w90. I am holding further to see if the front axle seals leak and will revisit with a new differential gasket.
And onto the biggest bummer, the transfer case fluid was probably one of the top 5 worst drain's i've ever done. Now I know why the front driveshaft was removed. I will attempt a rebuild later. In went 1 quart of Supertech ATF+4, 1 quart Valvoline ATF+4.
Transfer case gunk.
This used to be ATF+4. Welcoming any comments on their experience with draining a transfer case and seeing a horror show like this.
I sent off the fuse box and it should be back this upcoming week. Swapping a few junkyard FCMs didnt help. The circuit board was definitely kaput where all the blinking/hazard stuff happens (lower left). I also asked the repair folks to replace the 3 non serviceable tow light relays (upper right), and have a look at whatever is going on in the center left with the holes.
Out with the old shifter, my god it was disgusting.
In with a new shifter. It feels much, much better.
Onto evaluating the 4wd system, starting with the front differential. Suctioned out the front fluid, it didnt look terrible. In went about 1.5 quarts of Mobil 1 75w90. I am holding further to see if the front axle seals leak and will revisit with a new differential gasket.
And onto the biggest bummer, the transfer case fluid was probably one of the top 5 worst drain's i've ever done. Now I know why the front driveshaft was removed. I will attempt a rebuild later. In went 1 quart of Supertech ATF+4, 1 quart Valvoline ATF+4.
Transfer case gunk.
This used to be ATF+4. Welcoming any comments on their experience with draining a transfer case and seeing a horror show like this.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2022
- Messages
- 1,128
Got to say, I'm envious of your skills and patience, you'll probably have a great truck when its done though.
I got the fuse box back, now have full headlights, right blinkers, right hazards. Left blinkers/hazards not working, but I am fairly certain its due to hacked up wiring in the rear driver side of the truck. Before I installed the refurbed fuse box, I took the time to delete the passenger side battery, and replace the rest of the battery cables on the driver side. I live in the south, I deleted the grid heater, I dont expect to need the extra CCA. Its a common thing for folks to do who intend to add dual turbos, but i'm not interested in that nonsense.
Finally, I threw in 2 cans of Liqui Moly Engine flush for 20 minutes to have a good time with the sacrificial Rotella T4. The engine was ran without a thermostat for an unknown amount of time, meaning there has been incomplete combustion going on for that unknown time. This is the only black magic I plan on doing, but it sets me up for the 2nd repair. During my inspection I found the turbo drain line is swelling and has been seeping, and it will be replaced. I need to drain the oil anyway for the repair. It was nice knowing you Rotella. In will go Motorcraft 15w40 I got on sale early this year at walmart.
Updates for this project may slow down after this one, I need to save $$$$ for the next wave of repairs, which in priority are, steering system, parking brake, and ac system.
Finally, I threw in 2 cans of Liqui Moly Engine flush for 20 minutes to have a good time with the sacrificial Rotella T4. The engine was ran without a thermostat for an unknown amount of time, meaning there has been incomplete combustion going on for that unknown time. This is the only black magic I plan on doing, but it sets me up for the 2nd repair. During my inspection I found the turbo drain line is swelling and has been seeping, and it will be replaced. I need to drain the oil anyway for the repair. It was nice knowing you Rotella. In will go Motorcraft 15w40 I got on sale early this year at walmart.
Updates for this project may slow down after this one, I need to save $$$$ for the next wave of repairs, which in priority are, steering system, parking brake, and ac system.
Cool story. I'll stay tuned.
I have seen some glaring omissions on Carfax reports
The truck is now on the same color wheel spectrum after about 4 cans of Rustoeum Navy Blue.
I put in a temporary fix for the steering wandering issue. It turns out bushings in the steering shaft u-joint become disintegrated. I'm not surprised after 21 years. A temporary fix is to hammer in some small aluminum bushings, which has made it feel much safer to drive. They were available on amazon for $10.
Next up was the parking brake. I took a few videos of it in operation and both rear cables are working fine, but no engagement. I adjusted the passenger rear side with no real problems, but the driver side took me about 10 different screwdrivers, a hook tool, two different under truck positions and i made no progress. What finally worked was removing the dually tires, and using a Powerbuilt 647935 brake spoon that I had to grind a few mm narrower, and bend it further to 90 degrees on a vice. Its still a blind affair with zero access and only "feeling" it move the tumbler solved it. A few tests on a hill confirmed the fix, the brake holds on a uphill or down hill decline, and putting it in gear with the brake on gives a good amount of resistance.
Finally this morning I feel confidant enough to daily drive this project, no longer call it a project and topped off the tank. This will be the final post for this thread, and I'll shift any further updates to the regular maintenance board. Appreciate the encouragement and comments.
I put in a temporary fix for the steering wandering issue. It turns out bushings in the steering shaft u-joint become disintegrated. I'm not surprised after 21 years. A temporary fix is to hammer in some small aluminum bushings, which has made it feel much safer to drive. They were available on amazon for $10.
Next up was the parking brake. I took a few videos of it in operation and both rear cables are working fine, but no engagement. I adjusted the passenger rear side with no real problems, but the driver side took me about 10 different screwdrivers, a hook tool, two different under truck positions and i made no progress. What finally worked was removing the dually tires, and using a Powerbuilt 647935 brake spoon that I had to grind a few mm narrower, and bend it further to 90 degrees on a vice. Its still a blind affair with zero access and only "feeling" it move the tumbler solved it. A few tests on a hill confirmed the fix, the brake holds on a uphill or down hill decline, and putting it in gear with the brake on gives a good amount of resistance.
Finally this morning I feel confidant enough to daily drive this project, no longer call it a project and topped off the tank. This will be the final post for this thread, and I'll shift any further updates to the regular maintenance board. Appreciate the encouragement and comments.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2024
- Messages
- 179
the beauty of the Ram Cummins is the whole truck will self destruct around an engine that will never quit if you keep oil in it..I was a bit agast too. it was in neutral at the time and was in a safe situation but was still very much puckered. I pushed the truck back up the driveway with my other truck.
I have a brand new shift tower and lever coming tomorrow.
and you can just keep patching it forever. Parts are relatively cheap for those compared to the competition.
You ought to see the lawn guys that works my neighborhood, its a Ram Cummins 12valve from the mid 90's... no dash, screwdriver for ignition... no upholstery, etc... it is in what you would call NRA rough condition but I see it darn near everyday, just chugging along..
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2024
- Messages
- 43
That's a shame why get rid of it if it still works .I've been on the hunt for a replacement truck. I am near ready for bigger projects that require more towing capability. My Silverado will be sold to a family friend later this year. I won a 2003 Ram 3500 6 speed 4x4 manual at auction. She is entirely clapped out inside and somewhat outside. AC? Heat? What AC controls? Those are now options as there is a gaping hole where one once was. Stereo works with a USB port. The driver seat was gross, so I sat on a beach towel. The fender and hood do not match the rest of the body, and the tailgate which does not open is red. Its patriotic. The carfax showed no wrecks, so those white parts happened for whatever reason my imagination will think up. The odometer works, but carfax kindly outlined that its not original. I need to do some math but its probably in the 350k+ odo range. The truck fired right up in the auction lot and the engine sounds wonderful with I believe little to no blow by.
A friend escorted me with a boatload of recovery tools, of which only 1.5 gallons of water was needed to top off the radiator. Why 1.5 gallons? I think the water pump is weeping as it was flickering lightly off the belt at idle. Anyway, the front end is a little floaty, when turning the wheel right it takes too much or not enough vague effort that doesn't track well, but turning left is fine. My friend escorted me 60 miles back home. It was mostly uneventful. 3 miles out I was having a little bit of fun rolling coal, and the drive belt let go. I muscled it to the front of my house with no power brakes, no power steering, no alternator charging, and no water pump turning. It didnt overheat best I can tell. Here it sits in my front yard, ready for a full assessment.
Sigh.
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I wanted more towing capacity, I have also been focusing on learning diesel engines for the past 9 months and threw myself straight in, starting with a Kubota tractor. The Silverado I currently have is the non HD 2500 with a max gvwr of 8600lbs. My next project might well be another Silverado Duramax, Powerstroke, or a 8000 lb piece of equipment. We shall see.
