It finally died JD F510
- Thread starter SHOZ
- Start date
Looking at it today the valve clearance is OK after setting yesterday and cycling with the starter many times. I think that's where I messed up before as I only turned the engine over by hand a couple complete cycles. Easy to hear TDC as the exhaust valve opens and a big woos. Then the Auto Decompression opens it slightly again before going on. Had a helper this morning waiting under the tarp.
The valve cover was pretty dry underneath when I opened it up yesterday. The oil comes from a little flapper valve (
red arrow). It appears to just pulse and let in splashed oil. This oil comes down a 1/2 port in the head. It was all open. I ran it with out the valve cover and no oil coming out. I suppose it needs to have pressure or vacuum in the crankcase to work and it will take a while for the oil to work it's way up there. There is vacuum as the fuel pump works off of the pulses in the crankcase.
So I'm going to retorque the head and put the heat shields all on. Let it run awhile longer and see it it holds together. Do you think it's a good Idea to pre oil all that? Or let it run and see if it gets oiled?
My helper today.
The valve cover was pretty dry underneath when I opened it up yesterday. The oil comes from a little flapper valve (
red arrow). It appears to just pulse and let in splashed oil. This oil comes down a 1/2 port in the head. It was all open. I ran it with out the valve cover and no oil coming out. I suppose it needs to have pressure or vacuum in the crankcase to work and it will take a while for the oil to work it's way up there. There is vacuum as the fuel pump works off of the pulses in the crankcase.
So I'm going to retorque the head and put the heat shields all on. Let it run awhile longer and see it it holds together. Do you think it's a good Idea to pre oil all that? Or let it run and see if it gets oiled?
My helper today.
https://i.imgur.com/j7JhRlA.mp4Thank you for 4 everything you have done and posted in this Thread, meaning the updates on your progress.
I loosened that flapper valve for the oil and filled that passage with oil. It seemed to hold it so must be some sort of dam at the end inside. Then brushed everything with some oil. When cranking with no plug I could see it bubbling behind the flapper. So I'm assuming the oil is OK in there.
Put the heat shields on and then the muffler. The used one I've had sitting for decades was for the bigger motor so would not fit. Can't make it fit unless I swap the flanges. So wrapped the old one up in some 3" fairly heavy 316 grade SS tape (had it since the 60's). Pretty durable stuff but I know the adhesive won't stay. I put three layers on and crimped in in good. Two big hose clamps.....
The muffler is extremely difficult and the hardest part on this mower so far. But I persevered and got it on. Runs quiet and smoked for a good 10 minutes. Tomorrow I'll actually try and drive it.
Put the heat shields on and then the muffler. The used one I've had sitting for decades was for the bigger motor so would not fit. Can't make it fit unless I swap the flanges. So wrapped the old one up in some 3" fairly heavy 316 grade SS tape (had it since the 60's). Pretty durable stuff but I know the adhesive won't stay. I put three layers on and crimped in in good. Two big hose clamps.....
The muffler is extremely difficult and the hardest part on this mower so far. But I persevered and got it on. Runs quiet and smoked for a good 10 minutes. Tomorrow I'll actually try and drive it.
It started right up and was idling better though still a loop. Yesterday it would hardly idle down. So I'll run this gas out and put a new plug in before anymore work on that. New fuel filter and tidied up all the wires and hoses. Lubed that freewheel valve plunger and it works like new. The old spark plug is from 2016 and is one range hotter than the OE spec.
That cheap hour meter I put on is working like a charm. Could not be easer. Just wrap a wire around the spark plug lead and feed it though a slot on the digital readout. No power needed.
That cheap hour meter I put on is working like a charm. Could not be easer. Just wrap a wire around the spark plug lead and feed it though a slot on the digital readout. No power needed.
Keep up the Good Work and thanks for keeping us posted Young Man!
Thanks for the update! Glad to hear it's running again.
The flapper needs crankcase compression to function. Having the valve cover off, eliminates that crankcase compression.
If possible, post a video of it running! I'd love to see it. (the videos you posted above don't work for me)
The flapper needs crankcase compression to function. Having the valve cover off, eliminates that crankcase compression.
If possible, post a video of it running! I'd love to see it. (the videos you posted above don't work for me)
A couple years ago I bought a new carb off eBay from PartsDirect. $12.50, current price 28.95! Put it on today as there was always a lean miss going on. Found out the gasket between the head and a plastic heat isolator plate was ripped. taken off one too many times I guess.
Anyway put the new one on and it fired right up . No adjustments needed. Made in Japan.
Put a new seat on it but what it really needed was a new base plate too. It's rusted out. I put the new seat on the sliding part the old base plate and seat bolts to but lost about three inches of leg room. I need to make a new seat base I guess. it's the low low back seat and I though it would be easier to get on instead of the high back. It would be if it wasn't crammed up against the steering wheel.
Anyway put the new one on and it fired right up . No adjustments needed. Made in Japan.
Put a new seat on it but what it really needed was a new base plate too. It's rusted out. I put the new seat on the sliding part the old base plate and seat bolts to but lost about three inches of leg room. I need to make a new seat base I guess. it's the low low back seat and I though it would be easier to get on instead of the high back. It would be if it wasn't crammed up against the steering wheel.